SilverBeast

@ace card Iffy said white smoke is not coming from the booster heater exhaust, but the car exhaust.

That's correct, remove fill plug and fill till oil is level with bottom of hole. Like you say if you over fill it a little just wait till the oil stops running out then put the plug back in and wipe up the mess!

(i) You could try disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds or so to "reset" the control modules (make sure you have your radio KEYCODE first of course). (ii) If you ever jump start a car make sure you have control of the jump leads once it has started!

Mine just ends under the headlight as well, heres a picture with the headlight out I have previously asked on the Forums if there is something missing from the air intake ducting but the consensus seems to be that there isn't. Though there does appear to be a piece missing right at the front just behind the bumper. It may be worth checking that the pipe in the wing that goes from the intake under the headlight to the air filter box are attached properly. Mine wasn't fitted correctly (same monkeys when they did the radiator) and I only discovered that because I needed to change one of the bulbs, and it's easier to do by taking out the headlight. You can see it quite clearly at the left hand side of the picture.

Sounds like it's possibly loosing boost. If it was bad enough it would be seen as underboost (lower boost pressure than expected) and cause the engine to go into limp mode. I had a pipe between the intercooler and the inlet manifold I hadn't fitted properly once and it was practically undriveable as it was shunting a lot. Try checking pipework between the turbo and the intercooler and the intercooler an the inlet manifold. (Second one first as it's easier). On mine there is a fitting from the intercooler outlet to the hose that runs to the inlet manifold that is held on by two screws. I have just tightened this up (OK put a two match sticks in to tighten the screw in the hole) as it was loose as the monkeys that replaced the radiator last year managed to strip at least one of the threads (amongst many other things). It wasn't too bad but I believe some boost pressure was being lost out of this joint. I would guess that leaking air from the presurised pipes after the turbo would also make a roaring noise if air is escaping, possibly similar to the induction roar you describe. The hose from the intercooler to the inlet manifold passes to the top right of the cylinder head as you look at the engine.

Yes you have posted in the wrong area, you have posted in the MK1 & 2area, you are more likely to get an answer in the MK3 area of the site. As the haynes manual for the MK2 only came out this year, 12 years after it entered production, and 6 years after it ceased production, you may be waiting some time for one for the MK3!!!

I believe it shuts down once engine temperature reaches a certain temperature. About 75C if I recall.

Piece of carpet with two plastic clips, just like the drivers side - at least it is on mine

It's under the battery cover, to the left of the wash bottle fill tube. It has the five heavy duty wires coming out of the side and the fat red wire from the battery goes straight to it.

This pump is visible behind the diesel filter above the engine and below the black scuttle plate, pretty central but more towards the passenger side if anything. I believe on the 115's it runs for a couple of minutes after the ignition is turned off too. On my 130 it stops when the ignition is turned off. You can replace the motor brushes on the Run On Pump, though the motor hasn't been designed for you to do this. There are instructions in the FAQ's on this site and others. I've done mine.

Mine always stays on for 7-8 seconds at least, even when the engines warm or it's toasty outside!

It's under the front bumper cover below the headlight and in front of the wheel on the drivers side and yes it does over and under pressure. If faulty definitely replace it before a regas as if you remove it when gassed it will allow it leak out!

Check the wiring behind the the light switch, particularly if it has a dimmer. I believe someone had a silmilar issue and it was because of this. As dimmer works just on instrument/dash lights check it has 12V to one side when lights are on. I would expect the output side to have a reduced voltage depending on dimmer position. You can probably just link the two wires together if dimmer itself is faulty, it should just leave them on the brightest setting. edit: Actually if it has a dimmer the wiring this is a slightly different location, so I would check which ever is easier to get at.

The Passive Anti Theft (PAT) chip in it is for the immobiliser. If you buy a second hand one make sure it has the PAT chip as you won't be able to start the car until this has been programmed to the car. The remote buttons just lock/unlock and arm/disarm the alarm.

If you have a laptop get one of the VAG-COM leads off ebay. I have one of these This is by far the best value for money. It will cost less than £10 and you download the free copy of VAG-COM or VCDS-Lite from the RossTech website. I believe this will let you diagnose all the diagnoseable (is that a word?) systems as just about all the car and your engine are VW. I haven't needed the registered version as it lets you do most things anyway (such as resetting airbags, booster heater etc). If you visit the Wiki on the RossTech site it will also give more information about most of the error codes. There is plenty of help on this site on setting up and using it. Just search for VAG-COM

As previously suggested spend <£10 on the lead from ebay and download the free version of VAG-COM/VCDS-LITE from the RossTech site. I use the type linked to above. Clear all the codes, as if the garage didn't do so before doing their printout, some may be old as most don't self clear. You will then be in a position of knowing what the current faults are. Lack of power is a symptom of 'limp mode'. The default 'safe' ECU setup for when it decides sensors signals are erratic or missing. I would check the wiring to the sensors first as that to the Injector 2 lift sensor (I think that's the only one used by the ECU) is known to be prone to damage. The overboost is again common and due to sticking turbo vanes. There is info on the Forum about checking the actuator for these (on the turbo itself). It sounds like stripping and cleaning is relatively straightforward, though others have used a product specifically designed for this (10K boost?). Good luck.

Add your vehicle, model and variant to your signature so we can tell which make, MK and engine type you have. This will make searching for yoy info easier for Forum members who wish to help. Wiring varies for MK, Engine type and trim level (and probably manufacturer). This may not be the case for Fog Light wiring but if you want a fast answer give as much info as possible.

Read the FAQ's there are threads on repairing the wiring. You need to get more wire and join either side so the joint isn't in the gaiter.

I stand (OK sit) corrected. Fortunately I (tempts fate) haven't had this problem yet, though I'm sure it's just a matter of time!

Check wiring in all door (mainly drivers as that gets opened most) and hatch gaitors. The insulation is prone to cracking/breaking and wires can then break or short together. This is well documented and can lead to all sorts of strange electrical problems. There are topics in the Frequently Asked Questions Section dealing with repairing the wires.

Clear the codes, if you haven't done already. Some may be quite old as most don't self-clear. Try starting again and/or drive it for a bit (if you can). Check codes again and hopefully a lot will have gone. Re post with the remaining codes after doing this.

Guide Pin 25Nm Hose Union 14Nm - Not sure how you'd check this as I only have torque wrenches that take sockets and the hose would be in the way! That should be all you need to replace calipers If you are also replacing the "Brake Caliper Anchor Plate" as Ford TIS calls it (the fixed bit the Guide Pins fasten to, two bolts) these are 106Nm.

Not always the case. The crimps onto the cable are known to be very poor so the resistance happens there rather than the contact to the fuse. The conducted heat then damages the fuse box and can also get hot enough to oxidise the copper wire braids in the cables. It is best to solder the crimped contact to the cable. In the end I replaced the fuse box and alternator cable on mine (top one) with items from ebay and soldered the crimps on the first two crimps. See in link from post 17 above. If you replace the fuse box without doing anything about the crimps, I believe it will be only a matter of time before the problem recurrs. I suggest you do your 10min drive with everything on test after you have replaced the fuse box as this should be a good indicator and I wouldn't expect it to do any damage to the fuse box in that time. Even if you replace the alternator cable with a new one I would recommend soldering the crimps.

Definitley wants repairing/replacing. Feel the temperature of the lead after the it's been running for a while - careful you don't burn your hand! link

Separated rear wash pipe hose in passenger footwell? This is under plastic trim near front edge of door opening. Rear wash won't be working if this is the case, and it will pump water into the sound deadening foam under the carpet. My carpet didn't feel wet but foam was sodden.