SilverBeast

Best to get a recommended Mobile Air-Con specialist if you can. If you let people know where you live someone may be able to recommend one. I started this thread so people can do just that.

Searching the Forum, there may be a relay under the Fuse Box under the battery cover in the engine bay. Sounds like this may be K45

I think I had similar issues the Numbers on the relays are to do with configuration if the relay and how much power they can handle and not linked to the Wiring Information. I believe the K numbers may be on the plastic of the relay frames on each of the layers. Look at these. In TIS they are linked via the bue boxes to show the locations of each of the relays in the Layer 2 and Layer 3. I think K151 is in the second layer. TIS says K45 "best view" is "engine compartment front" Galaxy 2.3 Relays Layer 2.pdf Galaxy 2.3 Relays Layer 3.pdf

Apologies if you already know, but you do realise the fuse box has 3 layers don't you? If you look in the FAQ's here it shows you how to access the bottom two layers. There are relays on the bottom two layers.

Will this do? Galaxy 2.3 Cooling Wiring.pdf

Can't really get an impression of size but it looks like one of the rings they put round the hoses to protect them from rubbing. Here's one

You will more than likely be better off going to an independent mobile automotive air conditioning specialist (or getting them to come to you). As they will more than likely only work on air conditioning and not "a bit of everything" like a garage. It will probably work out cheaper too! Ask round family and friends and see if they can recommend anyone. I just had a pipe repaired, new drier cartridge and test and regas for £145 (+£20 diagnostic charge when he came to regass my wifes Fiesta), with me doing the donkey work of gaining access to the damage and putting everything back together again afterwards.

Clear faults and scan again (some may be old ones). Then repost just the engine faults for now as this is what you need to sort first. (i) When you first turn on the ignition (with drivers window down) and before turning the starter motor can you hear a single "squish" noise from the middle/back of car? This is the fuel pump in the tank pushing fuel to the fuel filter. (ii) Does the car start and run for a few seconds before cutting out? This can be a sympton of the immobiliser working correctly. If so did you drop your keys and they came apart, or replace your battery? It is possible the PATS immobiliser chip has come out of the key. Have you a spare key you can try? If the immobiliser is still on then the drivers door LED will still be flashing (I think) Search the Forum on the above subjects for more details if they sound like your issue. Good Luck

I was wrong about this, the wording in the handbook is confusing in that it says the Rear Air Con only works in "recirculate mode". It doesn't mean you have to set the system to recirculate mode, it means that the air in the rear compartment is drawn from inside the car prior to cooling not from outside. The front air-con (&heating) has the option of drawing the from outside through the Pollen Filter as normal or from inside when you press the recirulate switch. Mine is now repaired and blows 8.6C from the centre console vents on LO setting. This is better than the air-con man's S-Max which can only manage 10-11C when freshly fettled.

Search for VAG-COM or VCDS-LITEon ebay, there are plenty of leads. The software can be downloaded from the Ross-Tech site. If you use VCDS-LITE (newer version of VAG-COM) it also works with generic USB leads. This looks like the one I got ebay Link Make sure you use the drivers that come with it. Plug in lead and install drivers. Make sure the "Virtual COM port" in Windows Device Manager is in the 1-4 range or the software won't be able to find the lead. I assume you are aware that you won't be able to diagnose your engine (it's Ford not VW I believe) just the AirCon etc

Finally got round to sorting mine out. Used CoolDrive a mobile Air Conditioning Engineer, based in Alwoodley, Leeds but covers surrounding area. Very polite and knowledgeable. Repaired pipe (after I stripped down front end to give access) and replaced Drier cartridge (it actually came out on mine as it had been greased aroud the top cap!). Pressure tested, Vacuum tested and regassed. Even helped reassemble front end while vacuum testing. No gives 8.6C at the front vent. Diagnosed while regassing my wifes Fiesta and returned 2-3 weeks later to carry out repair on Galaxy as needed to order parts as VW use non-standard pipe size for repair parts. No hesitation in recommending, very reasonable prices. Before:- After:- Contact:- Stuart Simpson cooldrive@ntlworld.com 0776 997 5946

No worries, I do it all the time, usually because I spend so long typing it up that someone else has already covered it! :)

I believe seatkid means dual zone system. I wait to be corrected but I believe the dual zone system uses the same compressor and fill points as the single zone system, it just has more pipework to another evaporator in the nearside rear wheelarch along with more sensors and controls. You put more refrigerant into a dual zone system. I believe the rear roof vents will only blow cooled air when the system is on recirculate, if I understood the Ford Handbook properly, I never used it in the few (wintery) months between getting the car and having the radiator replaced, at which point I believe the garage damaged the pipework. (Strangely enough they said they didn't go near where the pipework is leaking. However when I have been taking the front end apart to give access to the pipe, the pipes going to it have been bent where they have moved the condensor, heatexchanger and oil radiator out of the way to fix it! - sounding familiar seatkid?) My 2005 MKII has the dual zone system and is due to have a pipe repaired tomorrow, then we will see if it still works. I believe a blocked pollen filter can prevent the car cooling properly if it hasn't been changed for some time. To check if compressor is engaging listen as seatkid suggests and/or identify the compressor in the engine pay and observe the nuts/bolts in the centre of the pulley while it turns on and off. They should start and stop rotating as it engages and disengages (an assistant turning AUTO on and off helps). WARNING:- Be VERY careful when observing and make sure no loose clothing/hair gets near the drive belt/fans.

Gregers, can you remind me when the "you are not my friend" list is? When?

The site linked above appears to say it is Version 2.7 of ford TIS. The one running on my (XP) laptop also says it is Version 2.7. So I suspect if you download it it will work with Windows XP.

Looks like it prises off on the Ford TIS CD. They say you can change it by unscrewing the bottom screws of the wheel arch liner and bending it back, as you will be able to reach in (scraping arms on plastic no doubt as the liner tries to spring down!) and unplug the connector from the rear (though I find I often need both hands to release the clips!) and withdraw it from the front of the bumper. Personally I'd still take the bumper cover off though!

You need to remove the Front Bumper Cover, it's actually easier than removing the wheel arch liner as you won't need to jack it up and take off the wheel. Three clips underneath (push out the middle, then pull out the clip. Recover the middle to push back in from the "wide" side when you put it back together!) Four screws in each wheel arch, four across the top of the grill. Pull forward, disconnect fog light wires (x2) and Front parking sensor connector on near side(see picture below). Instructions here but they say 3 crews each wheel arch and that Temp Sensor is on bumper, which it isn't on MKII's - certainly the later ones anyway. You'll also have more room to work on it. It helps iff you have two people to lift it off/refit it. Put an old blanket on the floor to protect the paintwork and be careful removing the wires. Here's a picture of the inside of my bumper. Ignore the position of the temperature sensor bracket, it was dangling in mine, but should be fastened to the chassis not the bumper so you won't need to dsconnect it. Not actually changed light but it looks like it's three screws after removing the chrome trim.

How about this -> intercooler ebay lsitings appear to believe they are common to MKI and MKII's If you add your model and engine to your signature then people will know which MK and engine you are talking about as there can be major differences. If you describe the pipe that needs replacing, or post a photo then there is more chance of getting a response. You could just search for "galaxy air con" on ebay if you know which pipe it is and look at the images then you may find something that way. That's all I did for theintercooler. I would suggest that for the air-con you try and find a reputable mobile specialist, that's what I have resorted to as they can sometimes repair rather than replace pipes, which can work out cheaper too.

It sounds like you aren't getting power to the Central Locking at all. If you have the manual check which fuse(s) are for the Central Locking and check those. I also have a nagging recollection, particularly bearing in mind thta the battery has just been changed, that you can have similar issues if one of the wires connected to the battery has not been refitted, though I may be wrong. Here's a picture of my 2005 TDI(130) Ghia with the battery out. As you can see there are two extra brown wires coming off the terminal. I would check those first myself (because it's easy!) (i) Are they connected? - Is the nut tight? (ii) I suspect one will be earthed to the bodywork. If so check that the other end is grounded properly. (iii) I would also disconnect the wires from the negative end of the battery for 10-15min just to see if that will "reset" something. It shouldn't do any harm. Mine was disconnected overnight while I was working on it and everything just worked (once I'd put the radio code in). While your there open the little fuse box under the battery cover that the battery positive wire goes to. The crimp to the biggest wire at the top has a habit of failing so that the wire overheats and this can melt the fuse box like mine :(

Hi Diane and welcome to the Forum. You have posted in the MK1 and MK2 section. You have a MK3 so are more likely to get an answer if you repost in the MK3 Forum. I have a MK2 so am unable to help unfortunately

Good point. A lot of the relays seem to fail due to poor solder joints. Others have successfully fixed Relay (109's ?). I think that there is a thread somewhere that shows before and after shots.

Here? --> ebay Link

Look at post 22 on this thread --> Here there are some good pictures there that should help. Blades should be on top of the wiper arms.

Did you look above the scuttle tray in the engine bay? You have to remove the wipers and the panel around them first to do this. If it's clogged up in there water can spill over the bulkhead, or even through the pollen filter and the heating system. If you've scoured the Forum I'm sure you would have seen this. If it has a sunroof the sunroof one of the drains can become detached in the headlining and the water that should be draining that way can run down the inside of the screen, into the back of the dash and ... into the footwell. Not experienced this myself, read about it in the Forums, apparently it can leave a streak down the inside of the screen on the passenger (or drivers?) side about a foot from the centre line. I guess the pipe runs down the A pillar somewhere. Maybe if you remove the trim from the passenger A pillar trim the pipes in there, if it's deteriorated it may leak and run into the footwell? Good luck, Richard You haven't had the screen replaced have you? A leaking screen could also cause water to come in?

It looked blown to me whe I first looked at mine - it's actually more obvious that it's not in the picture above when you click on it as the picture is bigger than the real thing! Apologies if I am "teaching Granny to suck eggs". Fundamentally a fuse is a piece of wire or metal that melts when too much current passes through it, therfore lower current is a thinner piece of wire (or metal). Comapre the 3A required to blow that fuse with the 150A required to blow the link at the top of the fusebox where my wire is overheating. The crimp is failing therefore the heat is in the cable not the fuse and the box melts instead! Tip 1: If something is too small to see easily, take a digital picture on Macro setting (if it has one - usually a symbol like a flower) at the highest resolution your camera will do, then look at it either zoomed in on camera, or on your computer screen. Tip 2: If you can't get your head in a position see something, you may be able to get a digital camera in and take a few shots that will let you see what you want. ...... or you could be really sad and use a webcam and a laptop screen :rolleyes: