SilverBeast

Damn, I hoped it was just me would notice the last one ! :rolleyes:

Missed the bit your were asking about :rolleyes: 1A/F100 is the 3A fuse!

If you add your vehicle details to your signature, then people may be able to help better as some things are engine specific. MKI, MKII Diesel/Model etc I have a MKII 2005 1.9TDI (130) which, as you can see, I have just disovered tonight is suffering the well known overheating problem on the Alternator Wire (as described above by MadBaz while I was typing and taking pictures!) The Descriptions in the handbook are very confusing. It is described as the Fuse Box in the engine compartment next to the battery and TIS isn't much easier to follow! Below is from handbook, the F numbers tie in with TIS. Top to bottom are (I think):- 5 - 150A to Generator (I call it an Alternator myself!) - That's the burnt one. F107 - Starter System, Alternator and Controller 4 - 110A Vehicle Interior - I assume that's to the interior fuse box F106 Starter System, instrument lighting, clock, alarm supplies, exterior lights, daytime running lights (Scandinavia), engine immobilisation system, multi-function modules, screen washing/wiping 3 - 40A Cooling Fan Management 2? F105 Engine cooling, air conditioning 2 - Not fitted F104 Engine cooling, air conditioning 1 - 60A Glow Plugs F103 Glow plug system, additional battery, auxiliary heating 3A - 30A ABS Pump F102 ABS, ESR, ESP 2A - 30A ABS Valve F101 ABS, ESR, ESP 1A - Power Supply On board electronics F100 Alarm supplies, additional battery, auxiliary heating

Have a look here and see if that helps.

FAQ No 73 --> http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/22923-manifold-cleaning/

Hi and wecome to the forum Jan. You will be better posting this in the MK3 forum, as MK3 owners may not look in the MK1/MK2 froum

Hi Roy, I would suggest you start with checking the wiring first as detailed in the second link I provided first. As I said I haven't had to do this myself on my Galaxy. Having followed this Forum for a couple of years now it appears a lot of problems stem from these links (not forgetting the two into the hatch). In the past I have had success in repairing central locking motors on a Rover and a Cavalier. They often seem to be clipped/screwed together. I suggest you take digital photos as you take them apart so you can tell where all the bits go when you put them back together. I have spent many an hour figuring out how mechanisms are supposed to work/go back together after taking them apart and thinking I don't need to document that it's obvious as I did so! Have you seen this thread -> Central Locking Playing Up Good luck, Richard

Hi Roy, The FAQs won't work with Internet Explorer. You need to install and use Firefox of Chrome to see them properly (I'm using Firefox). The following links won't work until you do If you look through the FAQ's they will explain how to remove the door cards Door Card Removal and Checking the Wiring Fortunately I haven't had to do it myself ---- yet

Brilliant. Well done.

Link to Ross-Tech Site --> Fault Code 00792 What's the full message for this fault code?

FAQ's no 2 Don't use Internet Explorer or you won't be able to see the thread/pictures (or so I'm told I use FireFox)

How many keys have you? You haven't got two on the same keyring have you? If so I guess they could interfere with each other. Try just using the key, with no keyring and no other keys if that is the case. From a safety point of view I would hope that an immobiliser fault developing on the move wouldn't stop the engine but only prevent it starting next time. I know this was the case on my Volvo V40 when the power supply wire to the immobiliser module degraded and started dropping the voltage till it was outside the limits of what the immobiliser would accept. It took the garage a week to give up on finding this and then me 40min with the Volvo VADIS CD to fix it!

Make sure you clear all the fault codes, now you have noted them. Drive around for a bit then read them again. Some codes don't clear automatically but may have been around a long time. That's the easiest way to find your "current" problems.

Probably easiest to remove the headlight, as it will also be asier to fit the bulb.

It sounds like your auxillary/booster heater isn't starting. This is usually caused by the glow plug failing. See item one in the Frequenctly Asked Questions (It doesn't work with Internet Explorer - I'm using FireFox). Pictures are on Page 6. When it doesn't ignite it blows the vaporised unburnt diesel out of it's exhaust. The heater itself is under the left middle row seat and the exhaust is in a similar region. Edit 22:27: Looks like seatkid was loitering at the same time as me and beat me to it! -_-

It might be worth giving the details of your car and which fuse you replaced to help other members in future :rolleyes:

See here -> SiteHomePage Should be a Mk II

Hi Peter, stat is thermostat, but bearing in mind your problems on the other thread I believe yours will be blowing cold as the Heater Matrix/Readiator is probably leaking, that's why you get steam on your out of the vents as it is hot coolant being blown through the ventilation system instead of warming the air via the heater matrix radiator. This will also be why your coolant level is low and more than likely why your passenger footwell carpet is wet, as the heater matrix is in the dashboard in front of the passenger - does the carpet smell of coolant/antifreeze. You could top up your coolant while the engine is cold and see if it goes down again, the vents start steaming and your carpet gets wetter! NOTE:- Be aware that passenger footwell carpet getting can also be due to block drains under the wipers, the rear wash wipe hose join coming apart as that is under the trim at the bottom of the passenger door, and the drain for the sunroof disconnecting in the roof lining, though I understand this usually leaves a streak down the front windscreen.... Good luck Richard

The nearside has more room as the air intake for the engine passes through the wing on the offside and has a plastic tube that links into the side of the air filter box - you can see where the air comes in when you lift the air filter out to change it. This gets in the way when changing the sidelight bullbs.

Glad to see you found the solution, and thank you for taking the time to let everyone know and lean from your "experience". Hope everything goes smoothly from now.

If yours did use to run on then it still should. I suggest you (i) Make sure air con is off. Set to ECON if it's got climate control. This is to stop the cooling fans running and making a noise as I believe they run all the time the ignition is on and the air con is on - they certainly do an my 130 even though the air-con doesn't work. (ii) Turn on your ignition but don't start the engine. You should be able to hear the run-on pump. (iii) If you can't then see if you can feel it running - you should be able to find the location doing a search on the Forum/FAQ's. (iv) You may find that it starts running if you move the pump around. (v) If it does start when you move it then it is more than likely the motor brushes though it could still be the wiring. Either way you will need to disconnect the plug and check the voltage at the plug to see if there is 12V when the ignition is on to be sure. (vi) If there is no voltage then it could be a relay or fuse, though I'm not sure which ones on the 115 as I've only looked into mine. It would definitely be worth finding out which fuse it is first and checking that before you start. Good luck.

I have a Galaxy 2005 TDI 130. I have the same symptoms. I replaced my brushes last year but as they were worn out and the pump runs only when the ignition is on. Looking at the wiring diagram I have probed either side of Fuses 18 and 34 and these are both live with the ignition on. I also probed the relay (K245) contacts as well and the relay worked correctly. At this point I wish I'd written down what happened, but I'm pretty sure that when the ignition was turned off the live feed to the relay that drives the pump (pin 6), as well as the feed to the coil (Pin 10) both went off. I'm not sure if it's only supposed to run on when it's hot when switched off, but I have never noticed mine working in "run-on" mode. Dual Air-con doesn't work so heating is always in ECON. Booster heater works fine now. Engine Temp sensor comes up with the following error code in VAG-COM 17664 - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (G62): Open or Short to Plus P1256 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent Which usually comes back straight away when cleared, but sometimes doesn't. I'm pretty sure this is a wiring fault between the sensor and the Engine Management module as a replacement sensor gave the same error when connected to the wiring (but not fitted). Not sure if anything is relevant to this thread though.

Look in the FAQ's --> Link It's item 5. It's a common fault. The MkII Galaxy is pretty much the same as the MkI. I removed the plastic trim on mine to get at it. The main problem is the sound deadening under the carpet which is basically a big sponge and took weeks to dry out. Update:- Too slow typing, see you've found it now!

Taken from TIS disassmbly of 115PS engine Is this the correct one Chris?

For the diesel engine you need a VAG-COM compatible lead (I got mine from ebay) as it is the VW engine. For your Instrument Cluster problems try looking at these threads Thread 1 Thread 2 Also search for "instruments" in the Forums using the Search box at the top right of this page. Good luck