SilverBeast

If you search ebay for leads, then some will have links to the ross-tech site for both sets of software.

Hi, The leak in the pipework Chris refers to is what I had on my MKII. The aircon specialist I used said the failure was common here and, also also one in the LH rear wheel arch where the pipes for the rear air con enter the cabin. My failure was under the fibre glass panel below the RH headlight, that also goes across the front of the car. Under the black to the Left of the alternator (though obviously lower down) in this shot. Here with the camera held low down. It's the smaller high pressure pipe and failed where the clip is. It's not visible with the naked eye (unless using mirrors and lights and several pairs of hands). TIP: If you use a compact digital camera with a flash and know roughly were to point it, you can photgraph hidden parts you can't see, and then zoom in to see more detail than you could with your eyes anyway. Here it is with the fibre glass panel removed (Remove, bumper, lights, bonnet release, unbolt and support various radiators etc - didn't need to break into any ciruits apart from air con) where the pipe comes from behind the bumper. The switch on the pipework is I believe the Hi/Lo pressure switch. The pipework is bent out of place where the garage who replaced the radiator left it, probably stressing the joint where it was weakened anyway! After fixing and from below, with pipe clipped into correct place Here's a picture before I removed the panel. The ropes were what I hung the radiators from so we could run the engine/system to check it out. Unfortunately I forgot to take one with it off (grrr!) We could here my leak hissing when we pressurised the system with nitrogen. Another common point for leaks is under the plastic cap where the drier is fitted (sloping bit at the top of the black plastic tube to the left of the air con condensing radiator(?) in the last shot). I assume this was replaced when you had your condensor replaced - it may even have been where your original leak was as the cap underneath corrodes and the drier can't then be replaced. I was lucky and mine had been greased so we could replaced the drier.

It's new and has a two year guarantee. It should do for you as mines a 130. It got rid of a minor vibration I had at around 20mph while accelerating in any gear since I got the car too! I replaced the bottom balljoibt at the same time too.

There are different driveshafts depending on gearbox and engine power. Do you know if yours is a 115 or 130 BHP? (I don't think the 150's came out till after 53 and am not sure if they still sold the 90's at that time). I have a 130 and got one of these (well two actually but haven't needed to fit the second one yet!). They are the same on the drivers and passsenger side.

You did replace the bolt didn't you? They are stretch bolts and should be replaced every time.

Well done. Glad to see you sorted it.

If it's too hot to hold it's faulty and your problem may recurr. I take it you mean the second one down from the top when viewed from the front (second from left in my picture) The heat is caused by damaged failed conductors in the crimp/wire. This increases it's resistance which causes the current flowing through it to generate heat. (The power generated is the square of the reistance multiplied by the current if you are interested). A secondary effect is voltage is dropped across the length of the wire so you may have a reduced voltage which may possibly cause other problems with trying to power other electronics from too low a voltage. If it is the fuse I mentioned this supplies the Central Junction Box (fuse/relay panel by drivers knee). Can you feel along the wire, it is probably just the section near the fuse that is heating up. You may just need to clean up the contact. Disconnect battery, disconnect terminal and clean up with emery/sand paper and reconnect. See if the wire is cooler after that. You may need to replace the crimp terminal and a section of the cable, I believe others have had to replace a foot or so. You can get butt connectors, crimp terminals and welding cable (this can handle the current and should be flexible enough to route) from ebay. You'll also need a crimp tool hetashrink tubing (to cover joint) and probably a blowtorch and solder. Good luck

This one should do it ebay link. Read the listing, it tells you where to download the software. Make sure you use the drivers they provide, it's from the Ross-Tech site, they write the software.

Try posting in the MKIII Forum, as MKIII's are completely different beasts to the MKI and MKII's DONE.

Not sure about VWTool but VAG-COM won't work on the 2.0 or 2.3 Ford Petrol engines, but it will work for a lot of the other bits like aircon, booster heater ABS etc

There is also an air conditioning condensor in there if you have vents in the roof.

Inside or outside car? Inside arch or underneath? Can you post a picture?

I agree with SK, it's proabably easier in the long run to just replace the caliper. I had disks and pads replaced and n/s caliper replaced. o/s started binding soon afterwards. I have freed up at least three times since. Last time I forced some copper slip under the rubber seal and worked well (with a ring spanner on nut). I also copper slipped the guide pins and it has been fine since. Tip:- If you disconnect cable and mechanism doesn't return by itself all the way to the stop it's in the caliper. (I'm sure fteman already realises this but for others who will read this thread). I think you can also tell if it's not realeasing properly without removing anything as I believe the hndbrake should always be pulled down to the floor when released, with no (or very little) "slop" before it starts to pull against the mecahnism. I could disconnect the cable from the rear mechanism without slackening the adjuster it was sticking so badly. I could use a ring spanner on the nut on the back of handbrake mechanism to apply the handbrake enough to refit the cable once I had cleaned it up. Tip2: If you drive any distance, immediatley after you stop CAREFULLY feel the wheels near where the bolts are. If there is a significant temperature difference nearside to offside then chances are something is wrong, and usually it will be pads binding on the disk. Remember Front Brakes will be hotter than Rear though as more braking effort is done through the front as most of the weight is on these wheels and the harder you brake the more weight transfers to the front and hence even more effort is required on the fronts. Be careful as if a lot of heavy braking has been done the wheels will be hot any way, so approach with hand slowly. Mine was hot enough to feel significant heat radiating from the wheel and holding my hand on the wheel would have burnt me. (It's not confined to Galaxy's my Volvo V40 did the same). I believe when you replace pads, particulalry with discs as well the auto adjusting mechanism (and pistons) will be retracted to a position where they haven't been since car was new (or discs and pads last replaced!) and where mechanism hasn't been "kept clean" by constant applying/releasing action of use, so they are more likely to bind anyway.

Here's mine after repair Apologies if you already know, but you area aware that the flat metal plates between the bolts are fuses to aren't you. They have their rating stamped on them, but aren't neccesarily very clear if they are corroded. I transferred mine from the old box as the second hand ebay replacement (that also came with the cable to the alternator - left in pic, but top from the front of the car) must have been from a different model as it had wires to all five of these heavy duty fuses. If I remember I believe the second wire from left in the picture goes to the Central Junction Box (fuse box by the drivers knee). If you have a voltmeter, it may be worth checking that there is a voltage at each of the output terminals on the Auxillary Fuse Box first. Then check for voltages on each of the fuses in the Central Junction Box (ignition on). I assume you disconnected the battery when replacing this. If you removed the earth, check that the "extra" wires connected to the ground clamp, (two on mine) haven't become detached.

It's on the drivers side near the bonnet hinge. You can see it here with the Air Filter box and scuttle removed

I think the rev counter on a diesel won't go as high as on the petrol engines. I'm not sure the speedo would read correctly either as I understand the signals from the sensor are different.

:( Should have read the title better. I just looked at your signature. The VAG-COM stuff still applies to the airbag. I'm nut sure about the engine management light as I have the diesel. I'v read elsewhere that it only applied to the V6 but suspect it may cover the Ford 2.0 engine too.

Hi, Do you mean the light shaped like an engine? I don't believe this is used on the TDI's. The TDI's use the glowplug light (yellow coil) to double up as the engine management light (Sorry if you know this already). This should come on briefly - longer when the weather is cold - then go out before you start the engine. Mine seems to stay on for 7-8 seconds regardless of conditions every time. Engine still starts fine so I don't worry about it. The airbag light staying on means there is a fault in the system - the most frequent problem seems to be the "clock spring". This is the connection for the steering wheel airbag that allows the wheel to turn while still keeping a good connection. If you have had any of the airbag connections disconnected while working on the car with the ignition on then this would also be detected as a fault and give the same effect. If you have a laptop you would be best investing in a VAG-COM/VCDS Lite lead (<£10 from ebay) and downloading the free VCDS-Lite software as this will let you diagnose lots of the systems on your diesel galaxy, including the airbags. It will give an indication of the area of the fault and also allows you to reset the system. I did this recently for someone whose side airbag connector in the passenger seat had become disconnected. It took 2-3 cycles of the ignition for the light to reset itself. Unfortunately I believe checking of the correct operation of the airbag light is now part of the MOT, so this will need fixing/clearing. Good luck

I believe think the 1997 2 litre is a petrol engine with no turbo. Not got one myself (or worked on one - only my MKII diesel really) but, from reading this site and others, would suspect possibly vacuum lines perished/detached. Others with vastly more experience will be along with better advice I'm sure.

No.If you just lower it as SeatKid suggested you can do it without removing anytning apart from the cowl and cluster I believe

Climatronic display doesn't always flash. Mine didn't when it was empty. I think I only saw it flash once when a "specialist" had refilled it after not finding the leak while the gas was still leaking out (took 2-3 hours). I believe there may be four pressure states the system recognises:- (i) Normal - Don't Flash Display (ii) Too High - Flash Display (iii) Too Low - Flash Display (iv) Even Lower/No Pressure - Don't Flash Display (Owner isn't going to fix me so flashing would be really annoying - or Ford Garage may be trying to sell 2nd Hand and don't want to go to the trouble of trying to fix it when they don't really know what they are doing) If the leak is due to corrosion under the headlight as I mentioned above the right specialist can repair the pipe if the hole is in the right place. This thread on the "other" forum (Sorry SK :glare: ) I started shows mine repaired. It also shows the location of the MKII Ambient Ait Temperature sensor and the Pressure sensor in the airconditioning system. I saved a lot of money by stripping the front end enough (including removing the Radiator Opening panel ) so there was enough access to use the crimping tool required to perform the repair.

You can probably see the corrosion but not the hole. There could be corrosion anyway but no hole yet. The dye needs a UV light, and usually coloured glasses to get better contrast to see the dye where there is a leak. I'm surprised the car was running for the pressure test as the pressure comes from the bottle, not running the aircon system. With mine we already had a fair idea of where the leak was from previous diagnosis (but they didn't want to fix it as involved a lot of stripping down). When pressurised we coud hear gas hissing from the faulty area, which is a common point of failure as chris said. Have you a MKI or MKII Galaxy? if you add details of MK, year and engine to your signature as in the Technical Section Index, it makes it easier for others to answer your questions as there are quite a few differences, particlulary with engine and electrical items. I believe the aircon drier is in a different location on MKI's from MKII's.

If you put your reg in here it tells you the details. It describes the engine as "1.9LDiesel P" which doesn't tell me any more, but I'm sure someone more knowledeable will be along who will know.

Have you looked at the Ross-Tech Wiki (Software Authors site) I just put the two lines of your fault code into Google and got this I suggest you check the connectors/wiring to the pump and control module first. What manufacturere, type, year and model, including engine, of Sharan/Alahambra/Galaxy do you have. If you add it to your signature it will help members to help you more easily. If you put your registration number in here it will give build date and engine details if you are unsure (including power output on diesels which can be important for some issues)

...actually the first picture in post #10 shows the corrosion pretty well! Forgot to mention VAG-COM/VCDS Diagnostic lead and the free software will show some faults on the Climatronic system including I believe Hi/Lo pressure (though I never saw any on mine even when it was empty). It's worth getting one anyway if you intend to keep the car as they are under £10 delivered on ebay - particularly if it is a diesel