SilverBeast

(i) Remove the radio if you haven't already. I've read several threads where an aftermarket radio has interfered with the diagnostics. (ii) Check the cables on the battery, apart from the two big fat horizonatlly challenged wires there should be at least one directly off each terminal. (iii) Look at this -->thread<-- post 5 about earths on the multiconnector. The whole post might help. (iv) Outside chance door/hatch gaitors wiring has been known to screw up many things. As they are twist plugged on you may be able to just disconnect them and check.

As you have a MKIII you may be better off posting in the MKIII forum not the MKI/MKII forum.

He says it's a MK3. famousfive - you will probably be better off posting in the MK3 Forum

If above and you have a spare key, try that first.

You can't really tell until it's hooked up to diagnostic software. As chromedome said it doubles up as the engine management light. It could be a faulty sensor or broken wire. As it's a diesel it's worth investing in a VAG-COM/VCDS Lite Lead (<£10 on ebay and the software is free). There are plenty of threads that show this. It will help if you add your vehicle details to your signature - there is a sticky thread that tells you how to do this - then other members will be better able to help as some of the engines are VW and some are Ford (though the diesels are all VW as is most of the vehicle).

For your sake, I hope she doesn't read the Forum :)

The chip responds to a signal from a coil around the ignition switch with a code that allows it to identify it as OK to run. Aparently some keycutters can copy a key and clone (copy) the chip embedded in it from an existing key. Not had it done myself so don't know which

See my reply in your other thread on Airbags. You don't need to buy the software to start with, just get a lead and try it first. Even Ross-Tech (the software authors) recommend doing this if your not using their own leads

I got one like this ebay link from a UK seller. It's probaly from Hong Kong anyway! Works fine for me using the free software (linked in listing) from the authors web site. I haven't used it for airbags though. I'm not sure if you need to buy a registered copy to work with the airbags (don't think so but can't remember). Pretty sure it warns you about some air bag systems it isn't compatible with though (think I scanned airbag on mine though) - Just use it with the drivers door open the first time and the laptop out of the firing line of the airbag!

Too slow at typing. You've already let us know!!

The metal can is your Diesel(?) filter. I guess the sensor could be a Fuel Pressure/Temperature sensor. It would help if you add your vehicle details to your signature. There is a sticky thread that tells you how to do this.

I have a fixed BRIN K (think it's by Thule) with a swan neck. It has the 13 pin electrics connector which obviously takes up less space than twin electrics. It is set quite far towards the bumper and doesn't affect the Parking Sensors. It was on the car when I got it. If you need twin electrics then there are plenty of adapters on ebay.

How many miles has the car done. The run on pump bushes seem to wear out around 80-90k depending on the sorts of journeys run. I believe that most TDI 115 s should run on for a couple of minutes after stopping. I know my 55 TDI 130 doesn't though and the concensus appears to be that it isn't supposed to. The run on pump is at the back of the engine bay virtually straight behind the fuel filter. If you make sure the aircon/heater fans are off and turn on the ignition (without starting) you should hear it running. If you can get your hand to it you will be able to feel the vibration too. Here's a picture of mine with the tray above the engine off It runs all the time the engine does. If it isn't and you can reach it wiggle it about a bit or tap it (it's held in two rubber collars rather than hard-mounted to the bulkhead) and sometimes it will run for a bit. If it does it is more than likely worn bushes, but could possibly be damaged wiring. You can replace the bushes but they are not a recognised Ford/VW/Seat spare. I've done mine with some I got from ebay. There is a guide in the FAQ's.

Here's a better picture of where it mounts, taken just before I took the radiator opening panel off (big fibre glass/plastic panel that the bonnet strike and radaitors are all mounted on) in order to have an air-con pipe repaired. If I recall it's an (M6?) bolt with a 10mm head that screws into a thread in the chassis (not a self tapper). Bear in mind that mines a MKII - not a MKI. I can tell one of yours is a MKI, but the second was I believe around the point the MKII came out. My Haynes for the MKII shows the bracket for the Temp Sensor fitted in correct location (though not with the sensor fitted) in the sections on bumper removal.

Saif, I believe the OP said he has lost his only key!

Glad you are sorted and my visions of doom were wrong!

Mine was dangling inside the bumper after I had had the radiator changed. I only realised when I was taking the front end apart to get my air con fixed...along with many othe things (missing bolts, bent pipes etc) TIS shows it fastened to the bumper cover and it was only with the help of Mirez and Chris on the other forum that I was able to find out where it was supposed to be. That's why I have so many pictures - when I get chance I will try and put together some "How To's". From the article you linked to, the temperature sensor will be there to prevent the air-con running in cold (<5C?) conditions

Ford TIS just shows it being wiggled and pulled out, though this is probably easier with one that hasn't been broken.... I suggest you look at the bottom of the new one when you receive it as it probably has a lip that holds it in place when fitted

It sounds like your turbo to me too. I would stop driving it, if at all possible, until you check it out. Your description of the noises, particularly the variation with throttle position and acceleration, is what I would expect if the vanes were rubbing on the housing (though I've never listened to a damaged one myself). If it is this and you continue to use it you can potentially get small fragments of metal debris into the engine and cause more damage. It probably needs to have the undertray removed and the turbo pipework removed so the turbo can be examined. Hope it's not this but the sooner you check the better.

On my MKII the temperature sensor/switch used to trigger the auxillary heater is clipped to the Wiper Arm Assembly under just in front of the pollen filter assembly In situ Here it is still clipped to the bracket that attaches it to the Wiper Arm Assembly As mine has Climate Control the the outside temperature sensor is probably used to trigger that the outside temperature is warm enough to run the air con. On the MKII the sensor is located on the chassis just below the nearside bumper mounting. On the Manual Air Con it sounds like it is located near the High/Low pressure switch behind the bumper cover undet the drivers headlight. Around here (This is on my MKII before the pipework was fixed so it is bent out of position, where the garage that replaced the radiator left it!)

Have you tried the passenger window from the passenger door switch as well as the drivers side? If that works it could be the wires splitting in the rubber gaiters that take them into the door on the drivers side. If it doesn't it could still be the same!. Plenty of posts detailing this. First place on the site to check would be theFAQ's as this details how to inspect and repair them.

Make sure it's the window. The hose for the rear wash wipe runs up in the 'D' pillar behind the window. On mine there is a junction at around the height of the back seat belt top mounting. This had come apart (in a similar fashion to the usual separation in the front passenger footwell) and was squirting water into the D pillar which ran down into the cubby hole on the passenger side which house the rear heating and air con (if fitted) it then came under the carpet into the boot area. If rear wash wipe isn't squirting but pump is running it may be this. Get an assisstant to operate and see if it is running inside the cubby if this is the case - not for too long or it will take longer to dry!

Hi Inchey, On the TDI's you can see the air con pulley from above without removing anything - not sure about on the 2.3. See above. It's probably easier to remove the front bumper cover to check air-con issues as it exposes more of the pipework and the receiver/drier on the condensor. One of the common leak points is the cap where the drier cartridge fits. Search the forum for details. I was lucky mine had been greased so it had not corroded so was able to replace the cartridge when my pipework was repaired. It is common (according to the specialist who repaired mine ) for it to leak in the pipework under the drivers headlight where it goes throught the mounting clip. The smaller diameter (High Pressure pipe) below was leaking on mine. Unfortunately you have to remove the (fibre glass?) panel that goes across the whole front of the car to get at it. This isn't too bad on the TDI130 as the only circuit you need to break is the air-con circuit (the pipe from the bottom of the condensor below the drier cartridge). I supported the radiators by a cuple of ropes from a garage roof beam. Unfortunately I forgot to take a photo with the panel off :glare:

From TIS Galaxy Petrol Cruise Control.pdf

Just a thought. If it does auto calibate when you disconnect battery and reconnect would it be worth just disconnecting battery for 30mins or so then reconnect and see if autocalibration fixes it? It would certainly be easier than getting at the sender and shouldn't do any harm