chrispb123456

Hi and welcome to the forum Have to agree mine is quite bad in this weather, have to fit snow chains to get on and off our estate as it's quite hilly, had the dunlop 2020 originally now on avons on the front, I would say not a lot to choose between them albeit the avons are wearing out quicker.

Hi Guys Thought I would go out this morning and check my settings on the car, interface found etc latency good 2.0 4.0 4.2 my driver was sept 09 so I updated driver to the latest July 10 and low and behold latency test poor cant remember the figures but the thing is I can still access aux heater etc, went back into port settings and reduced latency to 3. Done the test button again now latency good 2.0 2.0 4.2. You can google latency for an explanation (goodluck) I think i'm right in saying you cannot access Aux Heater on the MK1 only on the MK2

To the best of my recollection the drain for the Air con is under the bonnet down the back of the engine - It is a black plastic/rubber pipe that is plugged inot the bulkhead. In niormal operation you can see water puddling underneath it. It should be relatively easy to find and esnure it is clear. Have you checked the usual culprits? The drains either side of the bulkhead - You will have to remove the plastic inner wing to ensure they are clear. Good luck! As BJ has said behind engine/gearbox area, pipe sticks straight out from bulkhead, if pipe is blocked check for badly fitted/dirty pollen filter.

Hi Everyone who is or has suffered flameout errors on the booster heater these can be caused by simply not having enough fuel in the tank, the design of the tank and pick up pipe, ie long narrow tank with pick up pipe at the rear end of the tank, so if you park on a steep hill or driveway facing downhill if you have less than a third of a tank of fuel you will run the risk of drawing air starving the pump of fuel, hence flame out error logged, if your having this problem try facing uphill, heater will usually start on the second attempt when car has levelled out.

Hi there Firsly check that all the glow plugs are working, as they are still required after starting engine, if one or two are not working that will give a misfire till engine warms

The code reader I have is a maxiscan 405 now it allows me to read and remove the fault codes, now today I was looking at the rear brakes (handbrake mech playing up) anyway I checked the the pump feed next to the fuel tank and nothing on my test lamp so I powered it up with a 12v feed and it clicked I even disconnected the the fuel line on the heater hoping to see fuel coming out but nothing. I then took the heater apart to check the fan and it moved freely so not seized I checked all the fuzes, the temp sensor on the wiper mech so IAM THINKING THE TEMP SENSOR IN THE HEATER OR FUEL PUMP any ideas welcome and thanks for the replys. Gary got your pm but sorry mate Iam going to use the old on another project. ANDY Hi Andy So when you clear the overheat fault code when does it come back? ie, after a start attempt, comes back straight away without attempting to start. Am not familiar with your maxiscan so not sure if there's a compatibility problem here, perhaps other members can confirm? do you know someone local with Vag-Com who can double check your codes? The fuel pump is controlled by the heater control module these are troublesome on the later D5WZ-F model not heard of any problems with the heater temp sensor's although there's always a first

Hi Andy It does sound from your previous posts that you are only reading your fault codes and not clearing them, the heater is probably locked out and you need to clear the faults codes before it will start

Hi Mark I am running on XP with the VCDS lite and you can clear fault codes and look at measuring blocks without buying the full version licence. ps, miss them cold mornings winding up a Gardner or Cummins engine :lol: these new euro engines are so boring no character.

Probably a leak on the pipes or heater matrix

Hi and welcome to the forum. Has the booster heater been working correctly in the past? ie, loud roaring sound and no visible smoke from small exhaust after a few minutes running, as you have a 55 reg you will most likely have the later ceramic plug with wires attached which are available from dealers or there are outlets on ebay, (dieselheaters4u and heaterpartsdirect). Would advise cleaning combustion chamber and checking air inlet pipe and exhaust for blockages. Instructions with pictures for servicing in the FAQ's of the technical section http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=3623&view=findpost&p=24940 go to page 6 then scroll down to thread 80 onwards.

Maybe shock absorbers (dampers)

Hi Dave Latency can be adjusted from COM port properties. Plug in your Vag-Com lead to the USB socket open device manager, double click on COM ports, double click on your saved port, then click on port settings then click advanced, you should then be able to see the latency settings, mine is set on sixteen try that or a lower setting this may work for you

No Chris. Comes up with the same message on every modeule i try I havent tried a full scan test yet, but assume it would be the same on this as well I had exactly the same when I first got mine. I tried uninstalling it and starting again, it was slightly better I managed to get into Engine but the real cure came from a total reboot of the laptop reinstall windows it been OK since then.

Hi Dave is it working correctly on other modules, ie Engine, central Electrics, Auto HVAC

Is the pipe to EGR valve not fed from the lower connection on N75 as in diagram?

The most common is the n/s/f passenger floor, remove the kick trim two or three screws lift the hopefully not to wet carpet, you can push the pipe back together then use a small cable tie on it to prevent further leak.

Try these

Oh Hello You don't know me but I feel I know you :16: from reading old posts :16:

Hi and welcome to the forum Firstly is this a Mk1 or Mk2 and which engine code and is it just the initial start when its cold or is it still troublesome when left for a few hours. Glow plug light staying on for a second or so is normal you can then attempt to start the engine, just because the lights gone out doesn't mean there not on as they stay on after the engine has started to assist exhaust emissions.

Where exactly in the car is this pump - sorry want to be sure I do it right. Under the drivers side floor between diesel tank and inner sill

The pump has two pipe connections, the inlet pipe is the one with a union nut, unscrew the nut and the filter is there in the pump body.