chrispb123456

Hi there Answers to your questions. 1. Fully synthetic SAE 5W-40 for PD engines 4.3 litres with filter change. 2. You can but I would just get the engine hot and let it drain right out, change the filter while your waiting. if you do flush use the same oil for refil. 3. You should look up under the back of the engine for any leaks while the undersheild is off. 4. Lots of tricky fiddly bits but if it's running OK leave it alone

So did you check the voltage on the stop solenoid? if this car has a manual gearbox you can try this, remove wire from stop solenoid remove solenoid, remove plunger and spring, refit solenoid. Engine will start, you will now have too stall the engine to stop it. If car now starts OK every time you know you either have a dodgy solenoid or supply voltage fault. Do not try this with auto box

Hi there If one or more has gone open curcuit you could test them insitu with a curcuit tester, or take each one out and using a suitable sized jumper leads supply 12volts to each plug. Be carefull these get very hot very quickly hold plug with pliers or place in a vice, if they are working they will glow red in a few seconds. Also be wary of buying cheap plugs on ebay, use GSF or Euro car parts, dealers will be dearer.

Hi again The photo's in the TIS manual are no help :(

Hi there These are the instructions from TIS manual 1. Disconnect radiator top hose, 2. Disconnect the lower hose 3. Remove the three multiplugs 4. Disconnect the remaining hose 5. Remove thermostat housing 6. Remove thermostat from housing That makes it sound easy to remove, in reality probably not :)

Hi just going to work now will PM later with details. Chris

Hi there A quick check of the engine roll restrictor, grab hold of the top of the engine and try to pull and push any slackness there would point to the roll restrictor mount or even a sheared bolt, this will require removal of the undertray, but as Mirez has already said you need to have a good look around so removing tray would be essential. There are some available on ebay depending on your model, year engine etc.

Hi there and welcome to the site Thermostat is located in the thermostat housing located between the radiator top hose and the cylinder head, the housing is held on by three bolts. So just follow the top radiator hose from the radiator to the cylinder head, there will be some temp multi plugs to disconnect also, the stat is held in the housing with a spring clip. You will probably find the rubber seal around the stat has fell apart, make sure you have a new seal and clip with the new stat. Quite a simple job providing housing bolts are not corroded

Hi Sammie If you fancy a ride down to Chatham I'll take mine out and you could try it in yours :)

Hi Mark Have to agree with you a simple on/off switch idea and with the knowledge of only using it when you know your journey is going to be at least half an hour + would safeguard a good percentage from early failure, also for me with the added benefit of the timer/manual start I can go out and switch on the heater half an hour before a journey or if I haven't switched it on manually but the outside temp switch has initiated the heater I then decide to stop the engine for a short while, ie go in a shop I select manual setting then switch off the engine then there's no interruption to the heater cycle. Am now on the third winter season with this setup and dare I say it no smoke or heater problems at all :)

Hi Wacko As for the leak you really need to drop the unit down as the fuel inlet and water connections are on top and is not accessible in situ, if there's no fan errors I would be inclined to strip it down clean combustion chamber and fit a new glow plug. I dont know the length of your journeys but cant emphasise enough short stop and starts for these heaters, dont do them any good. Ideally they need to run at full speed for at least half an hour to keep it running clean. Hi again Just to add that possibly some of those faults codes may have been from the previous heater fitted? also you mentioned "like something is stopping and starting" is your run on pump working? as this will cause the heater to stop & start.

Hi there p323789 I think you best double check that cos thats exactly what happens when the spindles get tight and eventually seize up

Hi Wacko As for the leak you really need to drop the unit down as the fuel inlet and water connections are on top and is not accessible in situ, if there's no fan errors I would be inclined to strip it down clean combustion chamber and fit a new glow plug. I dont know the length of your journeys but cant emphasise enough short stop and starts for these heaters, dont do them any good. Ideally they need to run at full speed for at least half an hour to keep it running clean.

Hi there Thats bad luck if that was a brand new heater, cos it sound like the fan motor has gone, has it run since you cleared faults. You can run the fan and fuel pump with vag com, select measuring blocks. Have never tried to get a fan motor before, but there is a chap on ebay does parts for all heaters if you need one (dieselheaters4u) check your heater model first, there's a sticker on the end cover. will probably be D5WZ or D5WSC. ps on a lighter note does anyone still have cassettes for the 5000 stereo :)

Hi there When you changed the tank sender did you test for earth at the plug? you may have an intermittant earth. As you now have a spare tank unit you could plug that one in and move the float watching for any reaction on the gauge.

Hi Gary Check out number 54 in the FAQ section for details on repairing the pump I don't think the correct brushes are easily available so you will have to file down new brushes to fit :rolleyes:

Hi there Well done on getting it running. To answer your questions the only thing that will completely turn off your heater is the outside air temp sensor which is located on the wiper linkage at around 10 deg c + or turning off the engine. The heater will continue to at full power (5kw) till about 88 deg at which point the internal temp sensor puts it into a lower output mode about (2kw) The run on pump should start up a few seconds after switching on ignition or starting engine and will continue to run all the time the engines running regardless of heater settings or outside temperature, and as you say should run for a few minutes and then switch off. So if your car's done 80.000mls + it's probably in need of new brushes or new pump. So to summarise yes it is normal to hear the heater running continuous in cold weather

Hi there firstly welcome to the site. A few points to check. A. Certain amount of fumes to be expected as long as there's no visible smoke when running, you should only see a puff of smoke when starting up and shutting down. B. If you do a lot of short start stop journey's there's probably oily soot built up inside combustion chamber, (will require strip down to fix) C. Blower (combustion fan) partly seized, does the heater sound like a jet turbine when running? D. Does the heater seem to start and stop repeatedly even though the engine still showing cold. (if so run on pump not working) see how you get on, there are detailed instructions with pictures on stripping down heater. :rolleyes:

Hi there and welcome to the site. Not sure what part you are saying is stiff, im going to guess and say its the key in the lock barrel. Your best bet is to try and free this up to at least enable you to open the door, squirt penetrating oil into the key hole then work the key in the barrel this should get the door open ;)

A specialist would not regas without pressure testing first!!

Hi there Could be the temp sensor, located under the diesel pump on rear of cylinder head.