chrispb123456

Hi Can you hear the squelch type noise momentarily when you turn ignition on, if you can't hear it the electric pump in the tank is not working, relay 109 controls this or could be the pump itself. Can't quite get the connection between running out of fuel and holding hand over air intake on a diesel, that sounds like and old trick from carburettor days to draw fuel up from tank.

2.0 and 2.3 are Ford, 1.9 TDI and 2.8 V6 are VW

Hi there I use a mobile chap in Maidstone Kent he charges

Hi again Sometimes the TIS is misleading and has been known to show wrong info, so lets try another way first check fuse 22 is OK if it is make sure there is 12volt present at that fuse, if thats OK go straight to the blower motor the red and white cable should have 12 volts with ignition on, if there is 12 volts there the relay in position R19 in CJB is probably OK. see how you get on and let me know.

If your going to run them inside down passenger side if you look down behind the ABS valve block and down a bit on the bulkhead there is a rubber grommet you can remove, make a hole and pass cable through, it comes through inside to the left of the heater blower you may need to remove glove box to access.

Just to add may be a good idea to solder the two large cables to the crimped spade terminals in the auxiliary fuse box (if they haven't been done already) melting of the fuse box does occur here due to high resistance in these joints.

Hi Usually running engine at 1500rpm with filler cap removed until at normal operating temperature is achieved keeping the level between min and max mark, replace cap, take vehicle on a run then recheck level when cold. Providing you have no other problems with your cooling system all air should be vented

One of these http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-409-1-KKL-VAG-COM-OBD-2-II-VW-AUDI-SKODA-SEAT-Cable-/140529365649?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item20b833f291

It's number 3 on this one

Not tested one off the car but i'm sure (Mirez) will know if it can be done. Have found another pic, shows it a bit clearer and is RHD will be on next post

Just to add this is a LHD diagram so yours will be a mirror image.

More or less correct. I would say to avoid hot spot damage to cylinder head. You didn't mention whether your booster heater was working or not, (will only kick in if air temp is below 10deg approx) if it's not working you may notice a longer warm up time once engine water pump is changed. (Assuming it was knackered)

Thats the one, select 02 Auto Trans

Hi have sent you a plan of heater, number 7 is the relay, only suggesting it may be the problem as it has come up on here before, you may be able to confirm this by running Vagcom on Auto HVAC

Hi Dixon and welcome to the forum :angry2:

Hi First of all check the wiring loom and multi plug connector going to gearbox, disconnect plug and check for corrosion, secondly check with Vagcom see if any fault codes stored for transmission

Hi Muppet You might find this usefull!!

Hi and welcome to the forum Assuming the fuses are ok there is a relay above the hedgehog that may be the problem, Vag com will probably store a fault code for this.

Hi there and welcome to the forum First thought are the turbo seals are shot allowing engine oil to be drawn in and burnt in the cylinders, but check it's not been overfilled with oil. This situation can destroy the engine as it's running out of control and will end with a large bang when a con rod comes through the block

Hi Jay Have you checked the tightness of the subframe mounting bolts?

Hi there and a big welcome to the forum Johnny5

Hi there All the flaps and doors are inside the heater unit, the flap/door motors can be checked with Vagcom for faults. Any faults within the heater unit will almost certainly require removal which would involve removing dash. As Mirez said there's a good posibility that the engine water pump impellor has broken off, also likely the booster heater is also not working and it's operation is also affected when the run on pump packs up, the rear compartment heater also relies on the run on pump to circulate the water. You can check water pump impellor by removing thermostat

Hi Just a thought, you are replacing the belt exactly as you took it off, belt routing its easy to get it wrong.

Hi Are you sure this chirpy noise is associated with the gearbox? and not something like the auxiliary drive belt tension or alternator clutch pulley problem as that can make a shreiking type noise. Have you run Vagcom diagnostics on the gearbox to see if it's showing any faults? you can also/have to use this to check gearbox fluid temperature when checking level, car needs to be level when you do this. The procedure for checking/changing with pics is all on here do a search.