chrispb123456

Just looked on mine looking in through gap in the wheel it fits in the gap in the top centre of the caliper.

If you haven't got a vag com lead get one off Ebay and scan for fault codes, then progress from there. Let us know how you get on.

It's never to late! Thanks Maz :lol:

Thanks M8 Cheers :22:

Hi Burg Thanks for the Birthday wishes Right the primary purpose of these pumps is to avoid excessive heat build up (hot spots) when engines switched off after a run, consequences being possible premature head gasket failure, cracked cylinder head. The pump also aids circulation through the rear compartment heater and the correct operation of the booster heater, this is fitted under the car on the passenger side, it is fully automatic and should kick in if the air temperature is below 10deg c. It's purpose is assist fast warm up in colder weather. ps will be celebrating this weekend 3 day break at Hayling Island. cheers M8

Hi M8 Cheers Greg sunk a few today :22: By the way decided to stay at the Grand on Saturday night only

Easiest DIY way stick your finger over end of pipe while someone cranks engine for you. Remove stop solenoid wire to prevent engine starting

Hi Andy Changing oil and filter is a must, would have thought you would have done that when fitting engine. But what you must be sure of is that you have oil pressure from the turbo oil supply pipe because it sounds like no oil has been getting to turbo, dont risk putting a new turbo on without being sure pressure is OK.

Probably relay 109 dry joint problem, located in third layer of fuse box, instructions in FAQ's

Hope so :) also check the large hoses from turbo through to the intercooler back to the manifold.

Hi Burg Since you had the new water pump and stat fitted hows the coolant level been? have you needed to top up the level, is there pressure there when caps removed when cold? can you see air bubbles in the coolant when engines running. Any air in the system will bleed itself out if the cap is left of while engines warming up, if there is air constantly entering the system then you most surely have head gasket failure. Did you confirm whether your run on pump is working? its located on the bulkhead behind fuel filter, it runs all the time engines running and for a few minutes when engines switched off so if you cant hear it it's probably not working.

Check the wiring and connector on the coolant bottle, you may need to remove battery to do this easily

I have been in this situation for a year or so, only hose left is inside the ECU, but not had time to change it yet, lots of tdi forumns point to this being linked to 65535 but i find it hard to believe as this is better protected from weathering, oil etc. Good luck This pipe from the manifold to the ECU could be subject to oil contamination on the inside from oil mist which occurs normally. The pipe would degrade from the inside out so would go unnoticed until a problem occurs. Removing the pipe at the ECU and see if there's any evidence in the pipe could be a telltale sign for oil inside the ECU/small pipe and MAP sensor

Hi Andy IIRC it was a non runner when you got car so you dont know condition of that turbo albeit not seized, dont remember what was actually wrong with original engine, maybe the turbo seals are shot on that one but you wont know till you fit it. Personally I wouldn't take that chance, with all the work you already done get a reconditioned unit. If you did fit that other turbo and it starts leaking oil into the cylinders the engine could run away uncontrolled possibly ending in a large bang then back to square one.

Any new codes come up?

Maybe when the driveshaft/cv joint was refitted into the hub that some rust or debris has got between the mating faces of the cv joint and hub bearing, this could cause the joint to run out.

On the MOT they only visually look a the driveshaft cv joints gaiters, they have been known to seize and give vibration, also check subframe mounting bolts for tightness.

Hi and welcome to the forum A common fault is the anti rollbar link rods although they are normally picked up on the MOT, so assuming all bushes, track rod ends, lower ball joints, top strut seats and bearings, and wheel bearings are OK then you may have a knocking shock absorber. Are your tyres inflated to the correct pressure? You say you have a judder on motorways do you mean a wheel wobble at a certain speed? if all above is OK then wheel balance may be the answer, or is the problem only when braking?

Possibly a faulty temperature sensor. Vacuum leaks will also cause erratic running, you will have to physically inspect all the pipework for splits and perishing.

Hi and welcome to the forum The rear boot light flashing could be associated with broken/chafed wiring on the tailgate gaiter, this can cause a multitude of problems, check see if anythings not working at rear end like, rear wiper, heated rear screen fog lights, reverse lights, central locking.

As you have only just got the car you need to make sure it is not an engine circulation problem causing poor or no circulation to/through the heater, or if it is heater problem for example blocked matrix or faulty air door motors. Firstly I would take the car to a motorway and give it a good thrashing just to make sure there's no overheating and/or loosing coolant and excess pressure. What is the condition of the coolant bottle, is it clean with anti freeze or rusty looking water and marks around battery area, tell tale signs its been boiling up. If all OK so far then the heater unit will need interrogating with Vagcom (diagnostics) to check for faults with heater door motors. Do you get any heat from rear compartment heater? The diesel versions are also fitted with a booster heater located under the passenger side of car, this is fully automatic and should kick in when outside air temp is below 10deg c once engine has started. There is also an electric pump (run on pump) initially to stop hot spots in the engine after a run, it also aids circulation through the rear heater and correct operation of booster heater. The pump is located on the bulkhead behind fuel filter, it runs all the time engines running and a few minutes after turning engine off. If you cant hear it it's probably not working. See how you get on and report back.

never mind you could have called someone else out which could have cost more ;)

Hi Can you just confirm is heater blowing cold all the time, when it should be hot, bit confused by your text.

Hi there Welcome to the forum

You may have an immobiliser issue then have you tried using another key