chrispb123456

You'll have to strip it all down in a couple of years and see if there's an improvement :42: hopefully newer engines will have a similar set up as standard.

Have a check on tailgate wiring through gaiter, chaffed/broken/shorting wires here causes all sorts of problems

So how much is this filter Mark is it available in the UK

Looking at your photo I would say that pipe has become detached from the pipe running to the PCM (engine ecu) behind dash you should find another peice of pipe hanging that should be joined to it, possibly the end of the other pipe has split causing it to separate, would expect a loss of power in this situation.

Hopefully you wont have caused damage to the head gasket, any prolonged overheating will be detrimental to the life of the gasket. Do your engine water pump and cam belt then have a look at the electric coolant pump (run on pump), located on bulkhead behind fuel filter, this also aids circulation through rear compartment heater and correct operation of the booster heater, lots of info on here regarding this

Hi and welcome to the forum. I think you answered your own question, at the minimum head gasket plus check for cracks and distortion across head face.

The Haynes manual covers the MK1 or the Ford TIS manual on disc covers both, both available on Ebay or download for disc.

Hi Bobski Just re read your original post and noticed you say "the engine don't turn over" how did I miss that, relay 30 wont cause that, I think I would check out ignition switch next

In a word yes follow the bottom radiator hose to the cylinder block remove the two bolts you will find. and welcome to the forum.

There are a lot of wires especialy the drivers door so yes any broken accociated with the windows

You may do well to scan HVAC with Vagcom to check air doors/motors are working correctly. If aircon's not working even when temp setting is on low the air flow will still feel considerably warm/hot if the suns been beating down on the car.

Just for reference maxi fuse layout on level 3. I know you said you had checked wiring on door gaiters for breakages, the breaks are not always apparent the core may be broken leaving the insulation intact.

check the n/s lead hasn't broken out of the plug, this happened to me cos I didn,t unplug it when splitting the strut from the hub. Didn,t need clearing with vagcom, pad light went off straight away after fitting wires back in plug and abs resets after driving car.

using a test probe check for power in the centre of the lighter socket and the surround for earth.

rusself Firstly please dont start a new topic for the same problem it makes it very confusing if there are similar topics running from different people at the same time, be patient if you dont get an answer straight away, most of us have proper jobs to deal with aswell. Thats got that out of the way now did you establish whether the red wire (feed) to fuse 71 is live or not? Red and yellow should be the supply from fuse 71 through to door switch.

Mines the same year but auto, my number 1 & 29 are missing, 18 has a 5amp in Number 1 in my book says ignition, engine management 2.8 I CD v6 instrument cluster

Check the voltage at the fuse holder one side should be live

Hi and welcome to the forum Usually when the immobiliser is active the car will start but stops after a second or so, this is accompanied by flashing of the LED on the door. I'm thinking you may have other issues like broken/chaffed wiring in door gaiters and possibly relay 109 problem.

Yes your right Seatkid on the MK2 that is the parking sensor module.

The gearbox ECU is not in the gearbox it's mounted on the inner wing panel to the right of the battery.

Nice one BJ :) :16:

Vag Com will not read fault codes on the 2.0 and 2.3 engines as they are Ford engines and not VW. Try whats been suggested like cleaning idle control valve and if you havn't checked for split or perished hoses please do so. Does your temperature gauge stay steady at the 90deg mark when driving?

Fuel cut off valve is located on fuel injection pump

Hi there I had aircon man come to my home, took him 3 hrs start to finish including the regas, he took off bumper and crossmember and cut a small section of front panel to allow condenser through, this cant be seen after refitting bumper. He said this is a lot easier than taking out the radiator. Cost me