chrispb123456

Look for the Ford TIS manual on disc, can be downloaded off the net or get a disc from Ebay.

Hi there The Mk 3 first edition June 2006 so yours is a MK 3

As I said on your previous post check for fault codes. Does your ABS warning light work correctly showing no fault

Hi and welcome to the forum Maybe air entering the system or faulty relay 109, or faulty stop solenoid. Could be worth checking with Vagcom first as you may have a fault code present.

The top nut is accessed from under the bonnet you will need to remove the bulkhead extension (scuttle plate) held on by three bolts, you will find it easier if you remove air filter box and the coolant bottle, but beware them top nuts can get rusted solid so will need a good soaking with penetrating oil before you actually start the job. Which ever way you choose to remove the strut, I,E, split from hub, or remove with hub disconnect the ABS/pad sensor at the plug as you can inadvertently break this cable while moving hub around.

Hi Nigel Welcome to the forum There is a wealth of information on the site, most will be accessed by doing a search in the box at top right, more common info is in the FAQ's which is in the technical section. As you already found out aircon not working this is one of the weak points on the galaxy this can be a leaking condenser/drier, corroded/leaking pipework or knackered compressor. You could go to kwik fit and try a regass, cheap option but beware it probably wont last, most parts can be changed by a good DIY'er but me personally I leave this one to an aircon specialist. Another common thing is water in the footwells, this can be sunroof drains blocked or pipes disconnected, scuttle drains blocked, even windscreen leaking, but as you just got the car remove the screws from the rear end of the front wheel arch liners pull the liner forward, you will find this area full of mud leaves dirt and rubbish. Wash this area with the hose pipe then direct the hose at the w/screen, check the water drains down behind the arch, you can also make sure there's no rot in this area before replacing liner. Thats just a few of the common things but don't let that put you off they are still a good car with most things being pretty easy to fix, there are a lot of guys and girls with hands on experience in repairing these cars just be patient if you don't get an answer straight away.

Get a length of clear braided fuel hose about a foot long, remove inlet pipe to filter that's the one coming in from the rear (arrow pointing inwards on filter) then with a peice of metal tube connect clear hose to the black hose then connect the clear hose to the filter, use jublilee type clips. Start engine and observe for bubbles travelling through clear pipe.

Sounds like your going into limp mode and turning off and restarting corrects this till it happens again, over boost can cause this, which engine code do you have?

I think I would temporarily put in a section of clear plastic tube in the pipe from the tank (intake on filter) just to confirm if air is coming from the tank end or not.

Hi there The glow plug lamp doubles as the engine management light. If the engine is running as normal and depending on your year check your brake light switch(s) you may have one switch with four terminals or two switches with two terminals. Have a read here. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=8351&view=findpost&p=63453

I do beleive they are spline not torx on the driveshaft

Hi and welcome to the forum The only sure way of checking the driveshafts is to remove them, it has been known for the grease to dry up causing the joints to partly seize.

May be a good idea to check for fault codes as you may have issues with MAP sensor pipework, air in fuel lines don't always cause a problem as the air would bleed back to the tank, having said that you are relying on the fuel injection pump to draw fuel up from the tank through the filter so any loose joint or split pipe could cause air to be drawn in but not neccessarily leaking outwards.

Hi and welcome to the forum Have a check of the brake fluid level, the level may now be to high after winding back pistons, assuming the caliper sliding brackets are free and not seized.

Hi and welcome to the forum Maybe faulty ignition switch and/or relay 109 and now possible flat battery if no lights etc.

Hi Pipes Just out of interest how much was the loom from fords and have you got the part number still?

Hi Andy Don't know which fuse number you was refering to but have found fuse 14 is 15amp and fuse 37 is 30amp hope that helps.

Hi and welcome to the forum Yes that is the correct lead, VCDS lite is the later software you can download this free at the ross tech website also lots of usefull info there too. However if you have the 2.0 or 2.3 petrol it will not read these engines as they are Ford units but will work on the other modules.

Hi there The sensor for the gauge and ecu input is in the cylinder head below fuel pump, the sensor controlling cooling fans is either in the radiator or bottom hose connection depending on engine code. Would advise you replace engine sensor before you tow incase you have other problems with your cooling system.

Easy done :(

You need to determine how bad the leak is, make sure clips are tight clean any oil off then check again after a few days, oil mist and vapour is usual inside the cooler and pipework, this comes mainly from the crankcase ventilation valve and oil passing the seals in the turbo. Excessive amounts of oil will be burnt in the engine resulting in blue smoke from exhaust.

Hi and welcome to the forum You will only have aircon in the rear if you have vents in the roof, also the n/s rear quarter light does not open due to the extra evaporator behind the panel. single system 700+50 duel system 1050+50

Hi and welcome to the forum. You will need to jack the car and place on stands to do your track rod ends and ball joints, this will also give you the access you need to get to the intercooler, there is no water in the intercooler only the air charge from the turbo, this is then cooled the normal way of air passing through the fins cooling the air charge inside. Don't forget to get the tracking checked/adjusted after changing track rod ends.

The 3 way pressure switch on the MK2 is behind the drivers side front fog lamp, can be accessed by removing engine undertray or removing part of O/S wheel arch liner, the external temperature sender on MK2 is toward the N/S front fog lamp visible behind the lower grille, providing it's showing the correct outside ambient temperature on the display that's OK. And as already said check with Vagcom for error codes. 12 volts approx with plug connected on clutch. Cooling fans should also be running when in Auto mode (climate)

Totally agree with your other points Mark, was just suggesting reviewing the manifold/EGR for visual inspection for any further build up of sooty deposits.