chrispb123456

Hi there in bonnie Scotland There's quite a few possibility's one being the scuttle tray you have already dealt with, next and this is a must do if you have a sunroof? Undo the screws from the rear end of the front wheel arch liner, you may have to remove mudflap if fitted. Pull the liner away from the body now dig out all the mud, leaves and rubbish thats collected there making sure you clean the drain hole at the bottom, if you do have a sunroof you will probably find the drain tubes buried in the muck. staying with the sunroof (if you have one) lower the front corners of the roof lining to check the drain tubes are still connected to the sunroof, they have been known to come apart. If you don't have the sunroof still clean then out behind the wheels as this can lead to premature rotting away of the floor/bulkhead. Other possibilities are; Windscreen leaking around the bonded area. Rear screen washer tube become disconnected in passenger footwell (common problem) Condensate from aircon leaking into car instead of drain tube in bulkhead. Heater matrix leaking (and loss of coolant) see how you get on.

Your right mine didn't show up as a fault code

Are now you should have said that first, I bought one of those ebay cheapies a few years ago for an intermittent fault it ran worse with that one. Ended up buying a genuine bosch unit been OK since .

You may find this helpful. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5463

It could be, try spraying the maf first with a solvent cleaner and let it air dry before refitting it dont touch the maf probe they are delicate

Check for broken chafing and shorting wiring firstly in the drivers door wiring gaiter, then the tailgate gaiter. You will probably need to cut out and resolder in new lengths of wire, this is a common fault now with the ageing galaxy

Good idea to do air filter first and check make sure nothing obstructing inlet

Lots of small vacuum hoses behind heat shield on bulkhead (behind EGR valve) have you replaced air filter recently?

Hi and welcome to the forum The relay you had changed does it have 30 on the cover or another number, im thinking perhaps the wrong relay has been changed.

Hi and welcome to the forum :rolleyes:

Go for the thermostat first, sounds like it could be stuck partly open causing overcooling when travelling along, then not opening fully when engine up to temperature. Think im right in saying some of the ford engine models have a normal thermostat housing while others have the stat in the pipework, both types will have the housing but will be empty when stat is fitted in pipework, hope that makes sense to you.

Oooo I wonder how much those wheel caps are :rolleyes:

Sorry mate all the best for last Saturday just opened a bottle of you know what to celebrate lol cheers mate :rolleyes:

The EGR valve is held shut with a strong spring, and opens when vacuums applied according to operating conditions, the flap valve should be open all the time engine is running, only closes momentarily when switching off engine. Sudden black smoke could be down to over fuelling or more likely restricted air supply/charge pressure deviatiion (underboost) This could be turbo vanes sticking or maybe something more simple like a perished turbo actuator hose or one of the intercooler pipes split or perished, or damaged intercooler radiator Have a close inspection of all those items.

Sorry for the delay in getting back. Yes you found it. :rolleyes:

Please avoid starting a new post on the same problem Can you confirm what transmission you have as this is begining to sound like a clutch slip problem

Hold up no thats not it, thats the tandem pump (vacuum & fuel pump) As you look at the engine immediately behind the oil filler , it's just out of view in the top picture. The large air pipe is connected to it here is a pic of mine, you will see the small vacuum pipe on top http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=5455

Basically you need to remove the glove box to get access to the heater resistor, see pic in link below http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/16759-resistor-pack-removal-of-glove-box/page__pid__162675#entry162675

Hi and welcome to the forum get a new relay 109. VW part no, 1J 0906381A Info for getting to relays http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=8810&view=findpost&p=68423

Hi and welcome to the forum You haven't give a clue to which engine you have so am going to guess at 2.3 petrol if so replace your thermostat.

Flashing and not overheating is indicating low coolant level, if the levels OK check the sensor connections down behind battery

Looks like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AIR-PASS-VALVE-IDLE-SPEED-CONTROL-FORD-REF-1058383-/200419210686?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2ea9ea75be You will find it on the top of the inlet manifold held by two bolts and an electrical plug

Check the wiring on the tailgate gaiter for breaks/chaffing or shorting (common problem)

Vacuum leak? check all hoses for splits and perishing and/or clean/replace idle control valve.

Looks like the N/S drive shaft to me. You need to remove the shaft to replace the boot which should be washed out then repacked with grease assuming joint has not been exposed to the weather for to long. A quicker but more expensive fix would be just replace the shaft, this comes with a new hub bolt which would need replacing even if you only change the boot.