chrispb123456

Finger tight first then Stage 1 = 20Nm Stage 2 = 90 degrees

Ah you kept that Quiet 30 is so old not all the best mate. :)

Nuts :) Hi Greg

Ah so thats why im still waiting then, there's some inconsiderate people about :)

Yeah your right FAQ's are not working!! suppose we'll have to wait for the repair man, dont hold your breath though :) :lol:

Try cleaning/replacing idle control valve (on top of inlet manifold)

Maybe but you really need to scan with Vagcom first to see whats going on as it's probably going into limp mode.

You still need to rule out power loss to solenoid while cranking. Just confirm this by doing the temporary wire from the battery, if it still dont start at least we can rule out supply fault.

Hi and welcome to the forum Sounds like your going into limp mode which is reset by stopping and restarting engine, check with Vagcom first then do a search on here with your results for possible repairs.

Relay K245 that Mirez pointed out refers to relay number 449 in position R13, be carefull as there are several relays with 449 on them, I would also check the power supply to fuse 18 first

If all the other lights are normal try new bulbs.

As long as the reservoir is air tight you will only loose whats in the pipe, the important thing is not to get air in the master cylinder or ABS block

Hello Damsel Right first thing to do is remove the screws from the rear part of the front wheel arch liner this is where the pipes exit from the front end of the sunroof, all the dirt and muck collects here, get a hose pipe and clean this area then direct hose over windscreen to make sure the scuttle drains are clear, make sure there's no rot there before replacing wheel arch liner. Probably a fuse gone on the cigar lighter look at number 7 check the wiring in the tailgate gaiter these wires get broken and can short circuit, causes all sorts of problems. Assuming you have no towbar/socket fitted as this may cause problems aswell. Water in the footwells is a problem but can be caused by a variety of things one of which already discussed other things can be; 1.Scuttle drains blocked, causes rainwater to flood in through heater vents 2.Rear washer pipe become detached, (left footwell only) 3.Sunroof drains detached/blocked 4.Windscreen bonding leaking See how you get on, don't forget to report back with what you find

It's not a good idea to just let the fluid drain away, remove the cap from the fluid reservoir then wrap some cling film over the reservoir this needs to be air tight, this will stop fluid draining from the master cylinder and ABS block. Do the work you need to do, remove cling film then bleed a good quantity of fluid from each wheel topping up with fresh fluid.

Use a similar size thats already connected to the valve :)

The solenoid valve has a light spring which seals off the fuel supply when ignition is off, when you turn the key on the valve lifts and allows fuel to pass there is a safety feature that only allows the solenoid power for about five seconds, once engine fires engine ECU allows continuous supply. It may be you have a power supply problem or a dodgy solenoid. Do try a lead straight from + terminal of battery to solenoid.

I think there's some confusion here, when we refer to relays I.E. 30. 167 this is the number on the actual relay not the relay position number in the book so to help you relay 30 is position R27 and relay 167 is position R24 hope thats of help

Hi Jinksy & Calvinsnetwork The display flashing is telling you there's a fault on the A/C system nothing to do with sticky drinks. Could be a number of things causing this but by far the most common one is low gas pressure, these cars do suffer with leaky condenser/driers and corroded leaky pipes so you will need to have a pressure test done, dont just have it regassed you will waste your money.

There should be an audible click from the solenoid when ignition is turned on, the feed only stays live for a few seconds, check first that there is voltage present when cranking engine. If there is no current remove connected wire and with a jumper wire connect straight to battery then try starting.

Hi and welcome to the forum Short answer yes you can, click on the link and read as much as you can as it's not that straight forward, the four and five speed box are different as regards the drain and level plug (no dipstick) but the procedure is similar the filler cap is accessible from under bonnet

Stop solenoid is on the injection pump with a wire on top

Hi and welcome to the forum Engine ignition power relay 30 could be at fault also check fuel pump relay 167 as this could also cause engine to cut out.

Yes same position, Watch the glow plug light when trying to start when hot, does it still flash on for second, no light at all then 109 is suspect if this is OK check stop solenoid on pump.

Filter bracket from dealers

Use these intructions, 109 is in level 3 http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?s=&showtopic=8810&view=findpost&p=68423