chrispb123456

Type in the search box "seized wiper linkage" click drop down menu then click forums then click green button, loads of info and pics.

When you eventually get it right and running ok You need to give it an Italian tune up regularly!! it reduces the build up of sticky soot on the turbo vanes, what caused the problem to start with. :(

Yes the FAQ's are having a problem it has been reported, you can still get info by typing in the search box (top right on any page of this site) "cruise control 2.3 petrol" then change the drop down menu from this topic to forums then click the green button. There's lots of info about it, just depends how you word it in the search

The turbo actuator rod is set by the manufacturer and "shouldn't" need adjustment, it has been mentioned on here before about a slight reduction in power after replacing a turbo with overboost problems, mention to them about N75 valve as this can also result with similar problems. The MAF sensor is a good bet a this point as it rarely leaves a fault code, so substitution with a known good one or new and not one from ebay is the way to go.

Just a thought, while you were repairing the wiring on the doors then testing did you have the ignition turned on without the engine running, coil may have overheated? In the days of distributors with points and condensers if you left the ignition on without the engine running the coil used to get red hot, just seems a coincidence it should go while doing something unrelated.

Hi and welcome to the forum Which engine do you have in your sharan? iirc the relay 30 is only for the ford engined galaxy's. Is the number 30 printed on the relay?

Hi Mads PM is personal message, if you click on Mirez on his post to you it will open his profile page, at the top left side you will see "send me a message" you can then send a private message to him.

Happy Birthday Maz where ever you are :rolleyes:

Turbo overboost will reset after an engine switch off and will drive normally till the next limp mode, this is usually sticking turbo vanes and/or turbo actuator, disconnected perished/collapsed vacuum hoses to and from N75 valve also defective N75 Underboost limp mode if due to charge pressure leak will not recover with switch off until fault is found, in other words limp mode automatically resets once faults have been repaired. Power supply to diagnostic socket is fuse 32, 5amp although this is unlikely to be blown as it covers other items, have you physically looked at the socket to make sure no pins have been pushed out of the plug (just a chance).

Similar experience I drove 250-300 miles through the night on two separate occasions of heavy snowfall last winter delivering essential food supplies, (thats what they call it) and again had no problems. Get in my galaxy to go home, 500 yards from my house, stuck cant get up the slightest incline. Walk home get the snow chains out 4am in the morning, love the car to bits but they are the worst car I've had for traction in all my years of driving. The chains are now in the car and will stay in it for the winter months.

You can usually associate this symptom with a dirty idle control valve, if it was OK before clutch change make sure no vacuum pipes have been pulled off and not replaced. May just be coincidence if all appears to be in place remove idle valve and clean with decarboniser. Valve is located on top of inlet manifold, held on by 2 bolts and 1 electrical connector

Hi and welcome to the forum. Check wires haven't broke off the sensor on the bottle, you may need to remove battery to see it

There is this product available http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Innotec-turbo-Cleaner-Volkswagon-Audi-and-all-Turbo-Diesel-Vehicles-/170700844299?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27be902d0b which users have had a result with. You can also try operating the turbo actuating rod by hand make sure it's moving it's full travel without sticking, its quite tough to do this owing to the location and the strong spring inside the actuator. Other than that removal of the turbo and manifold to clean out. They do say giving these engines the Italian tune up every now and then thats flat out in third gear and holding it there for as long as you dare keeps the turbo mechanism clear, but make sure cam belt is in good nick before attemping that.

Hi and welcome to the forum Get your garage to check the water pump impeller is not loose or become detached, this has been a common problem, this can be reached by removing thermostat housing, or better still replace water and because that requires removal of the cam belt change that and the tensioner and idlers aswell. Also check the electric coolant run on pump is working aswell, if it's not working this could lead to premature head gasket failure and incorrect operation of booster heater Loss of power could be caused by turbo overboost, being reset every time engines turned off, turbo vanes sticking is a common cause for this though carefull checking of the vacuum control pipeing for splits cracking and perishing first. Sticking turbo vanes is caused by excess amounts of soot building up inside turbo and intake manifold. Overboost can be confirmed by scanning with Vagcom or similar.

Sherlock holmes I mean Seatkid you've been digging deep :rolleyes: sounds like a classic case of blocked/restricted sump strainer, forgotten oil and filter changes.

The resetting of the trip has come up a few times, iirc check fuses 31 to 34 You may have a bad connection on your instrument cluster. Connections to fuel tank unit and temp sensor shouldn't be ruled out but would be a coincidence for both to be at fault

Hi Fred You may find this site useful if you haven't sourced your turbo yet. http://www.essexturbos.com/content/ford-galaxy-tdi-2

Hi and welcome to the forum Is the car new to you? did you buy the car with the fault or has this suddenly started happening. Did all faults appear at the same time. The MPG readout do you have it set on instant consumption or average consumption

As you look at the camshaft pulley it's at the 4 o'clock position held by one bolt, the connector is behind the oil filter housing (black colour) The grey one underneath is the crankshaft sensor connector Not sure if sensor can be removed without removing cam belt and cam pulley.

Sorry chris but Mk1 90bhp variants e.g 1Z, AHU are fixed vane, wastegate controlled turbos. 110bhp models AFN etc are VNT turbos. OK Seatkid I stand corrected :lol:

The injector wiring and/or faulty injector will leave a fault code, you need to scan your car with Vagcom you can do this yourself by getting a lead off ebay and by using a laptop scan your engine module http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAG-USB-DIAGNOSTIC-CABLE-409-1-OBD2-II-LEAD-VAG-COM-/330399696070?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item4ced5b44c6

Hi Greg Bangbus may be busy doing over things :lol:

HT leads (High tension) are the spark plug leads on a petrol engine, the AUY code refers to the MK2 115ps diesel engine.

The MK1 AFN engine uses a normal fixed vane turbo, The AUY engine is a MK2 VNT (variable nozzle turbo) so no you cannot fit that one.

I have this number for the AUY engine but check your engine code with VW dealer first. 038971600