chrispb123456

Could be dodgy injector wiring loom, see if it's left any misfire codes in vagcom

There here on ebay follow link although I think there a little overpriced http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eberspacher-glowplug-D3WZ-D4WZ-D5WZ-water-heaters-12v-/280767201725?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipment_Accessories_SM&hash=item415f0781bd Should also be available from VW dealers cheaper pt no. 7M3 963 319A Or Ford pt no. 1257205

Usually vehicles with bulb failure circuit will suffer damage if no relay is used, having said that there has been members that have just scotch locked onto the rearlights of the car and had no problems.

Hi Andy As Seatkid said seems to much of a coincidence not to be associated with the screen. It may well be where the wiring has been disturbed has caused a problem, there are two live feeds one each side going to the screen and one earth behind the front interior light.

As already said relay 109 is the power supply relay for engine ecu/injectors Fuel pump relay is marked 53 in position 3 You can normally hear the pump for a second when you first switch ignition on, it only runs for a moment to pressurise the system and sounds like a squelch noise from under the car, if you cant hear anything then it's not working, it may even be a faulty pump or the connections to it. The pump is accessed through a plate in the floor under carpet middle row of seats area.

I take it thats a D5Z-F controller did you find the problem with it?

A few members including myself have had to change recently from IE to get back full functionality on the forum.

Vagcom should tell you if there's a fault with the instrument cluster. Other than that check the connector on the fuel tank unit (there's an inspection plate in the floor (under middle row of seats to access)

30 is the engine power relay Have you had your key apart or dropped it recently in case you have lost PATS chip, or do you have a spare key you can try?

Hi there You haven't said if this is petrol or diesel? For diesels try tapping relay 109, for petrols relay 30, they are found in level 3 of the fuse box. Both these relays suffer from bad solder joints. VW part numbers are; 109. 1J0906381A 30. 165906381

There is a relief in the oil pump and another in the oil filter housing which is usually a bypass for a blocked filter. This could be nothing more than a faulty oil pressure switch but as you already had a problem with the turbo I would definately check pressure first, you could by a gauge and adaptor from Halfords probably cheaper than risk driving to a garage for them to check it.

After your recent problem with your old turbo I would be inclined to check the actual engine oil pressure with a gauge, you may have oil pump/relief valve problems or partially blocked sump strainer

Perhaps You could be the first Bob, personally speaking your only putting off the inevitable, i've never had any lasting success with K seal or radweld, not tried Steelseal :)

Hi and welcome to the forum 2004AUY85kwTDI and steve 1 Apart from the condenser/drier leak (quite common) the aluminium/rubber pipes are suffering fractures, and corrosion, the location of the pipework being low down behind the front grille and through the wheel arch means they are exposed to the rain road dirt and salt/grit in the winter, also a worn out or broken engine stabiser (roll restrictor can fracture the larger pipes from the compressor. Have to agree keeping aircon going all year round will look after the internals, cars with climate control the default setting is auto with the option of using econ mode, I must say that in the rare occation that I used econ there was no noticeable difference to fuel consumption. As for protecting the pipes from corrosion spraying them with something like waxoyl should help but baring in mind that some of the pipes are hidden in the wheel arch and in support clips.

Hi and welcome to the forum Remove your battery from the car and charge it for at least 48 hours (you cant test a flat battery) then take it to any tyre/battery outlet and let them discharge test it. You may need a new one.

iirc Mirez was refering to the EGR cooler, this can give coolant loss without the pressurisation, the coolant escapes into the exhaust system

Hi and welcome to the forum Alternator clutch pulley is usually the culprit, this can be replaced but you will need the correct tool for undoing the bolt and it is extremly tight. You will probably see small particles of metal which has been thrown out around that area

Hi Bryan The Hall sensor G 40 is located in the cylinder head behind the timing belt, if you look behind the oil filter you will see two multi plugs one grey and one black. One goes to the cam sensor the other goes to the crank sensor which is just to the right of the oil filter in the block. Hope that helps regards Chris

109 is the power relay for injectors, when it's faulty will cause the LED on drivers door to flash fast while trying to start. G 40 is related to faulty cam sensor

Check vacuum supply pipe at servo and vacuum pump, ends of pipe can split/perish causing loss of vacuum to servo. Can also affect operation of turbo boost control.

Hi and welcome to the forum. May well be the wiper stalk thats at fault although that is not that common, check washer pumps for power, the wiper spindes seizing up is quite common, usually stopping and starting randomly, creeping up the screen. The rear washers usually more troublesome, supply pipe becoming detached from inside the tailgate and a joint in the pipe under front passenger floor, telltale signs there are soaking wet carpet in passenger footwell

Why not take the whole assembly off dismantle and regrease.

You haven't given any engine details or year

iirc under front passenger seat