chrispb123456

Here on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-Seat-No-30-Digifant-Relay-165-906-381-/280584198452 or VW dealer or Ford if you want to pay more :)

Hi Allegedly Just a thought when I had my screen changed they removed the trim dowm the side of the screen on the inside which im sure enables you to see the side and more importantly the lower corners of the screens bonded area.

Hi and welcome to the forum The wiring in the door gaiters would be my first starting with the drivers door and tailgete. Breaks/chaffing in these wires causes all sorts of problems, may also be worth scanning with vagcom and see if any faults been recorded.

If you cant wait you could remove the temp sensor and bridge the two terminals in the plug, if you don't know the sensor can be found clipped to the wiper linkage, after removing scuttle tray (3 bolts)

You shouldn't have to wait to long Dave, it's down to zero here this morning, frost on the screen etc :wacko:

Usually when a glow plug is completly knackered it will show open circuit or short to +, flame out is more common with fuel supply interupted IE, low on fuel and facing downhill causes air to be drawn in. Single incidences can go unnoticed and the heater will retry to start again after a few minutes if the car is moved and/or tank replenished, but 5 simultanious flame outs will cause the heater to lock out this is whats probably happened to yours.

Hi Dave Am a little confused now I thought you had bought a new glow plug to replace yours? am I right in thinking you put the old one back in and now the heaters working Had you previously scanned with vagcom and got errors for heater.

Hi Dave You now have a problem the plug with the wires attached is the later ceramic plug over double the price of the earlier one, you can use the earlier plug but you need the earlier plug loom to be able to attach the wires to the glowplug, if your interested I have a new ceramic plug here which you can have for what I paid for it

Ages ago someone mentioned a seam at the top of the wheel arch that was causing problems but iirc only on one side, only sure way I can think is to take away the guesswork would be to remove the facia although wouldn't relish the thought (big job). I think if it was me I would rule out the windscreen leaking by having it changed (usually

Hello Justride You said in an earlier thread you had a 64AH battery fitted, for a diesel galaxy that does seem rather small and on looking at various online battery suppliers you should be looking at a minimum of 80 amp hour and CCA of 740 or higher. Just a thought you may have had the wrong battery fitted!

Lets hope so then, personally I flush out and refill with new anti freeze, if not then yes you would need to clamp the pipes. Before you remove the coolant hoses make a mental note, sketch or photo of the angle the pipes are fitted to the heater as this could cause problems when refitting heater back in car.

Doing a straight swop takes me 40 mins including jacking up rear end, no special tools required if it's a secondhand heater you got was it gauranteed a working unit.

Clicking and lights flashing could also be flat battery, assuming the battery is still OK you need to charge it for a minimum of 24 hrs better still 48 hrs.

Cored flux solder, take care if doing it in situ as there's not much slack in the cable, you will need a blow lamp with a small nozzle preferably. Wasn't sure exactly how much the relays are but generally VW are cheaper.

I caught mine just in time managed to solder the crimped terminal to the lead with a blowlamp, they should be like that from new save all that messing about. Get your 109 from a VW in preference part no. 1J0906381A

Type your vehicle reg in here that should tell you http://www.etis.ford.com/vehicleRegSelector.do;jsessionid=9FDB7802A7B2DF78FC829E943B8A10EC.fcvas503

I am not familiar with the MK3 fuses but if the MK 1 & 2 is anything to go by there are some fuses hidden behind the main fuse box, also auxiliary fuse box by the battery and some models with extra fuses under front seats. If there's a definate component or circuit causing the problem you should be able to narrow it down by removing fuses in turn which you say you have done. What you have to bare in mind aswell is things like the immobiliser/alarm clocks and radio memory all consume power while everythings turned off.

If it's going into limp mode it wil register a fault code so scan your car with vagcom, may save you time and guess work.

If you cant connect with the heater check fuse 12 first if it's OK look at the wiring multiplug on the heater and see if the large red wire has corroded/broken off, if it has broken off the easiest fix is to bypass the multiplug in other words connect the two red wires together outside the plug. :wacko:

Pumpe Duse = Unit Injector

Hi there Im not in your area but would be willing to strip your heater clean combustion chamber and fit a new plug and gauze to your heater for

My you have been busy :) the booster heater on your model year are prone to ECU failure as well as the glow plug, you need to scan it with vagcom first. You also want to make sure the electric circulating pump (run on pump) is also working as the booster and rear compartment heater wont run correctly without it.

Im not 100% on this but if your doing all this cranking with the glow plugs disconnected it may be throwing a fault code similar to to glow plug light flashing when you have a faulty brake light switch. Appreciate you have suffered turbo failure before but just start the engine normally and let it idle for a few moments then report back.

Are you actually starting the engine or is this low pressure warning just when cranking over?? Low oil pressure at tick over is not so drastic, it's at higher revs I would be concerned. You have eliminated the restricted flow element but I would have checked pressure first before removing sump. On your oil filter housing do you have one or two oil pressure switches? Worst case you may have to remove sump again to replace pump.