chrispb123456

Well done for sorting the booster and run on pump Have you checked/changed the pollen filter if this is choked up it will reduce your air flow

Remove the belt start engine and see if vibration is still present, it will not damage the car although wouldn't recommend driving it as you won't have any power steering and the alternator light will be on but running the engine should be enough to confirm if vibration is still present or not These pulleys cause a lot of weird noises, I have just changed one on a renault scenic it was causing a really rough tick over and clanking knocking shreaking noise

Hi Chris I read through these posts I cant see where he says its fixed .... . I woud have thought that this would be very unsusal for a car of this age and assumed its the freee wheel type??? . I saw your post looking for a photo of the alternator so guessedyou were on this track as well. I wonder if in the past its been changed to a fixed pulley and they slackened the tension on the belt because of this problem, if its now been put back on tight would the problem now shows - Apologies Nik the OP says "one way type", page 4 of the topic. I did wonder myself if someone had changed to the fixed type by mistake and as you say replacing the tensioner has now caused the problem, OP did say this problem has occurred since replacing tensioner and belt.

Nik the OP's been told it is a fixed pulley

These things are always worth a try I suppose, but consider the fact the car is getting on for ten years old it's likely to have already had a replacement clutch & flywheel fitted, was there any service history with the car? Looking at your alternator picture it looks exactly like mine, get a second opinion, have you an independent alternator/starter repairer in your area they could confirm which is fitted. Did you have the speed signal fault before the current problem

One of these. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD-2-II-CABLE-LEAD-AUDI-VW-VAG-/220518250615?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3357e97877#ht_3031wt_1064 Then download the free VCDS lite software for dumb interface from the ross-tech website http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/download/

As you say slightly more accessible on the MK2 but I still prefer to completely remove the wiper linkage and regrease those spindles, hoover out all the leaves and dirt then change the pollen filter.

Higher tickover speed is usually a faulty coolant sensor but you haven't had a fault code for this, reading back previous you mentioned an intermittent speed fault what was this referring to. (code number) Am still thinking on this pulley, have not known a fixed pulley on these cars, it causes a few problems when a pulley seizes e.g jerky steering, odd squeaking/schreiking noises, alternator workshop light flashing on, erratic auxiliary belt tensioner. Fortunately it's easy to test the pulley but requires removing belt from alternator then placing a screw driver in the fan blades of the alternator, the pulley should turn easily anticlockwise but locked when turning clockwise.

That's the master switch for the rear compartment blower, when it's on you can then use the heater controls above N/S passenger roof area.

Your timing looks fine now it's warmed up although the idle RPM should be down to about 840 not 903 Will await your photo.

Also check around your battery connections, there are a number of smaller wire attached that have a habit of breaking off and dropping down.

I take it you have checked the fluid level? as you haven't mentioned it.

Have checked my timing when hot, it is showing 0.03ATDC The auxiliary belt and tensioner you had changed will not affect your timing, this belt only drives the alternator, aircon and power steering. The timing belt and tensioner is inside the plastic cover and cannot be seen until the covers removed. Would be interested in looking at your alternator pulley can you post a pic of it because a fixed solid pulley would cause the same problems as when the clutch type pulley seizes up.

Good news is the injector balance is well within spec but the timing isn't but looks like your engines cold check block 004 again when engines hot, I will check mine in the morning but I'm sure mine runs at 0 TDC Have you had the cam belt changed recently?

You are allowed to have both working :rolleyes:

You need to give it the Italian tune up every now and again keep then vanes clean :rolleyes:

Suggest you get codes read first may save time.

Possibly changing the stabiliser mount has made the engine more rigid and is now transferring the imbalance through the car, DMF may well be the cause of this and usually gets worse in the latter stages. Injector misfire can come up as a fault code in engine module but look in measuring blocks also for injector balance I think it's block 013 Did you change your alternator pulley when doing the tensioner?

The booster heater should be in the same place under n/s door pillar area, and is fully automatic there is only a timer control if the car had the independent heating option.

Don't think you can get the pulley on it's own from fords. They are available from motor factors but you will need the special bolt removal tool. Better still if you have a alternator/starter repairer near you take the alternator off yourself and take it to them they will usually supply the fit the pulley to your alternator.

(with global warming, aux heaters will become redundant, I'm just biding my time rather than repairing) I wouldn't hold my breath waiting for that to happen, Ebersp

Thanks for the info Doug that will put a few peoples minds at rest.

iirc some vehicles have two switches on the brake pedal? make sure you replace with the same type.

That'll be very interesting Doug keep us updated :(

Is yours a 115 or 130? It does seem to be the case that the 130 ASZ engine doesn't have the run on that the 115 AUY engine has