Bigjeeze

Yes and they use Octopi to do it!!!

You could try a WT N Dry vac to get as much water as possible out then a couple of those de humidifiers. Worth a go - beats cutting the sound proofing out!

Every day when I drive into my house I select reverse whilst still moving (2-3 mph) before reversing to get into my space. It never ever either refuses or crunches. It crunches when cold changing from 1st to second though!! It's a linkage or cable issue. :16:

Just reinforces my point really - its just like shelling peas!!! :5:

Wouldn't swear to it but it might be an amplifier - I believe the MK1's sometimes have this.

Not quite right. When you put your foot on the clutch pedal the hydraulics act to apply force to the pressure plate - which warps the springs or compresses according to type, which then releases the pressure on the driven plate thus removing the drive from the engine/gearbox. If the springs are weakened then it's true the clutch could drag but that doesn't explain why it only does it in reverse gear. If it were doing it in the forward gears I would agree - particularly as in this case the vehicle is stationary when engaging reverse gear- and if as appears to be the case the drive engages and disengages properly and no signs of drag are exhibited - I still think that this is not the problem. I may be wrong about synchro on reverse - although it's not rare at all - but I still think this is a selector mechanism issue.

Ooowww!! Poor little sausage!! Thank goodness she's getting better now. :5: You'd better hope you or Hubby don't get it.

I think actually , that it's the parts manufacturers and retailers as well as the mechanics who are ripping us off here. The design of the clutch is excellent. How often have you had to do anything to an externally mounted clutch slave? They are normally very reliable - lasting for years at a time. From a design point of view its a brilliant idea and saves time and money on the production line. Don't forget these cars are assembled on a line with all the necessary machinery and the people putting these things to gether only ever put them together they never have to remove the individual parts. All that is happening here is the ususal form of robbery whereby Garages are making an absolute fortune out of us all. In the early 1980's I used to work for VW dealers running parts depts - and of course as I did the ordering form VAG I could see the mark up on various parts - it was and still is huge. Engine parts would be in the order of 30% Body panels 50% exhausts 60& and so on. It used to upset the sales director that the parts and service department made the company more profit than the sales of the new cars. Thats why this forum is so important - we have the opportunity to learn how to do it for ourselves and say bollocks to the rip off mechanics.

I am not sure how we get to a clutch problem when it is difficult to get into gear. If after bleeding, the slave/master cylinder works fine in all forward gears and doesn't have an unusual bite or is slipping or dragging,then it seems to me there is another problem. In the vast majority of cases when you select reverse you are stationary - so it sounds more like a synchro ring - or possibly even a Gear change cable on it's way out. The fact that it is easy to get into gear with the engine stopped doesn't change that or prove a dodgy clutch. To check for slippage drive about 20mph engage 5th and apply some gas - if it either struggles or stalls - the clutch is fine - If the revs increase you have a slipping clutch. A dragging clutch is where the clutch plate sticks on the shaft and so is difficult to disengage drive. Your fault doesn't sound like either of these to me. Re check the hydraulics and then look at the cable selector mechanism.

I am!!! :23:

A handbag.... :23: And :23: ...On guard Heathan!! A handbag!!!!!!!!? :23: Look into my eyes - only my eyes - you will not use a handbag!! Wake up!!! :20:

This topic was initially "My PC Crashed this morning" My response was - "Women Drivers" So Mumof4 you did a course on Motor Maintenance? What did you teach them? How to repair wiper mech's or CD changer repairs? or was it How to change a nappy @ 50mph in the overtaking lane? :16: Stick to washing machines and Hoovers - You know it makes sense!!!! :16: :16: I challnge you to a duel!! Choose your weapons!!!

I don't have a tail chasing pussy or even a ball licking dog - but I have added my vehicle details to my signature!! Mind you I once saw a mouse with no clothes on. :16:

i know more about cars than i do about my pc!!!!! :D You probably need more Hard DIsk space. Does anyone know if the HP pavilion has any spare Drive bays or IDE ports? It might also be easier in the long run to add a USB external drive - That way you ge the extra capacity but don't have to sod about inside the box :D

I'd take a further option that may be available. Can you not plug or shut off the supply from the tank (assuming it is from a tank - you did mention 1m head). If that is not possible then I would try the freeze method providing I had at least a foot of leeway to work with. I have had those sodding plugs come out when there isn't enough pipe between the valvve and the plug - and as Nik and John says a cork or bung or a gatevalve could give you the extra confidence. Either that or drain. Draining will only cost you time and some additive - no further complications. :D

I just looked at MM's bit on replacing the MAF cartridge. I have to be honest and say I didn't know you could get the cartridge separately. I always assumed you bought the whole thing - which is how I see it displayed in most cases. Is it cheaper to get just the cartridge?

Sorry Ogben - Still at least we know now it wasn't a typo

Nah! She just tells him what she wants and he toddles off to get it!! He's a bloke he'll just do what he's told by the boss!!

I think he means that you carefully grip the wiper arm (using some suitable protection to prevent scratching) with a pair of pliers and twist a little to alter the angle of attack to make the arm sit properly on the screen. Done correctly this should stop the juddering. If the blade is hitting the plastic below the screen it may be because the spindle nut is not tight enough or has allowed the arm to slip - Try slackening off nut and moving the arm on the spindle enough to clear the plastic trim But be careful to ensure it doesn't foul the other arm.

See Mumof4 - You really are cruel and wicked to poor little old me!!! :D Nik said so!!!

Hmmmm

Apart from the roof vents I think they all have the same vents elswhere.

Thanks Nik Greg really hurt me with that remark coz I am a sensitive little soul!!