Bigjeeze

I reckon you should have tried selling the number first - it's probably worth more than the car!!!!

Booster heater?

I am not an expert particularly on towing but I cannot believe that you allow your motor to run at max revs for long whilst towing - surely you drop into a higher gear asap? Even if you believe the EGR does nothing - why does it clog up?

EGR valves clog up for the same reason as Turbo vanes sticking - not driving hard enough. Clean the EGR valve and re fit - then either do more mileage or at least thrash it at high revs every so often. I do a lot of mileage and invariably use the Cruise control and stick at 2.2K revs approx 70mph - I notice that when accelerating hard that it chucks out a lot of smoke - I then just drop in into 3rd - thrash it for a few miles and it clears and works fine. Mine has 153K on the clock. Give it a try - I am of the opinion that as clever as I think I am I am fairly sure the engineers at VW know what they are doing and why they put the egr valve in there.

Both mine do this - it's perfectly normal - I think it comes on and off to maintain the temperature - obviously once you start moving the temp will drop so I think it stays on most of the time. As to extra consumption - I don't have such a big difference on winter/summer - probably drops by 4-6 mpg in the winter - so average consumption is around 40mpg winter 44-6 in the summer. Depends how you drive.

I was that member!! http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...hl=wiper+blades You can buy and fit rubbers only but I have found them to be sub standard the inserts are usually hard rubber and they skate and make a lot of noise. The ones in the e bay link were sent from the CHannel Islands - they are genuine so much so that I bought a psare set so have a newsih set on the car and a pair spares for less than one new set from Frauds!!

Well it does have a temp range of between 7 - 10oc - below around 10o C it will come on - if above that it probably won't.

Saif - Worry not - Look Here http://www.freecarshow.com/make_product_pages/QURESHI.htm some people have a lot of time on their hands!

Me too I had the condenser problem when it was still in warranty. After that I did get a hose go but other than that it's worked fine for almost all of it's 153K - with the air con on always.

Well done mate - I wish I had thought of that - When I did mine it was new Years eve and bloody cold!

Have a look here if you think you can do the job http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...e+wheel+carrier

I just had a look on the TIS and it looks identical to my one. My spring clip was the same as the diagram - your clip sounds like a fairly standard spring clip. I remember that getting the return spring on was a total swine - if seem to remember that I fitted the M/C pluger into the pedal 1st so that ithelped hold the pedal in place. I used mirrors and torches etc to try and see exactly where is needed to go. It took me a long time with alot of swearing. Sorry I can't be of any help .

Sonnym what exactly is the problem?

I removed my clutch pedal and Master Cylinder a while ago and found it a real pain as there is so little room to work. On the assumption that this isn't a problem with the clutch itself you may be best advised to take the pedal and return spring off and clean/grease it. Be careful though the pedal is actually made of plastic.

Haven't done a MK1 - I did my MK2 and it was an absolute pig because you can't see what you are doing. Sorry I can't help.

Pull the fuse out, it is a totally unnecessary piece of the car It is not unecessary but very necessary!! Do you really think the engineers at VW would put these in and keep putting them since the first model in 1996 to the latest in 2009 if they weren't necessary?. They help the engine to heat up quickly in the winter as well as providing heat in a large cabin. By all means pull the fuse temporarily until you get it fixed but you will need it fixing especially now winter is coming.

As the big man says we need to know what year and model etc. It sounds to me like the cable is knackered - on the MK1 it has a ball and socket type joint and that goes - if so then you willhave to replace - CAlbe around

I have a Pela 6000 Oil extractor and have used it for the last 5 oil changes ( I change mine every 5- 8K) except thelast where I decided as a change to use the sump plug - It's easier with the extractor!! Also on mine as the oil filter is up on top and really easy to get to I change that at the same time as I do the oil - So far so good - I have 153K on the engine and it seems fine to me.

You probably need someone with VAG com to do a check. Sounds like flap motors knackered or sticking. Is it full CLimate contolr or just standard Air Con?

Yep I'm up for

Little Johnny attended a horse auction with his father. He watched as his father moved from horse to horse, running his hands up and down the horses' legs, rump, and chest. After a few minutes, Johnny asked, "Pop, why are you doing that?" "Because I'm thinking of buying these horses." Johnny looked worried, "Then I think we'd better hurry home right away!" "Why?" his father asked. "Because the milkman stopped by yesterday, and I think he wants to buy Mom...!"

I's go along with Tim - The clutch is not bled like a standard hydraulic clutch where you basically push out any air but it is done using a vaccum so that it draws in the fluid - It sounds like they haven't done this properly. As for the improvement over time maybe that's to do with the amount of times you depress the pedal effectively pumping the clutch.

Try resetting the switches on the brake and clutch pedals. Do a search.

I had a problem on my rears a while ago whereby there was a permanent squealing which you could get rid of by tapping the pedal but it would eventually come back. I decided to look at the pads - took off one side the pad looked OK so I didn't bother taking off theother side - Big mistake! after more noise I decided to do it again - this time when I took off the caliper I discovered that the pads were worn similarly to yours Saif - but the disc was shot also. I then looked more carefully at the caliper and discovered that it had partially seized - so I had to buy new half calipers ( not the hydraulic bit) for both sides as well as the discs and pads. It could have been prevented by taking off the caliper and using some copper slip or similar in the moving part of the caliper. I check it regularly now!!

It'll be more like - "What this has been an issue since 2001 and you've only just comlained!!" Or the other favourite is: "Piss Off!"