Bigjeeze

Hi BJ Long shot here and I know and i'll probably be wrong but do you not have 2 switches on your brake pedal? Hi Chris You were right - there are two switches there - one blue which I saw and tested the other black - I replaced this with a new one - problem solved. Thanks for the advice. BJ

I did Gregers ! but it turned out to be the wrong one. Also when I tested it the switch appears to work bu there isn't any power to the switch. Chris - I can only see one switch but I'll double check. Cheers BJ

I need sme help please. My wife's MK1 has lost it's brake lights. I checked the bulbs - all OK - All the other lights, wiper etc work so probably not wiring broken. I took off the brake light switch - as far as I can tell it is OK - When testing using a meter it turns off when the plunger is released as I think it should. I tried checking for voltage at the switch connector and there appears to be none. I checked the fuse - it's OK. I am at a loss to know where next. Any ideas please? BJ

I think that you might mislead the OP Chris - When my run on pump was not working it didn't affect either the booster heater or the rear heater - However as I have dual aircon that may be why. I have changed three glow plugs so far - one on the MK1 and 2 on the MK2 - and on the latter I did not clear any faults with VAG com - the heater just fired up on it's own and has worked ever since. I would get the OP to check the connections to the dosing poump etc.

I would have thought the caliper mounting bracket and new guide pins should be available separately, but Willie Krashitt is your man for availability and Ford part numbers. That said, you should be able to free the old one off. Remove the bracket and get it into a vice if possible, with the pins pointing upwards. Peel back the rubber gaiter, and flood with penetrating oil... you may need to leave it for half an hour or so, and repeat several times. Keep trying to wiggle the pin with a ring spanner inbetween oilings, you may need to give the spanner a small tap each way at first but try not to rush it - give the penetrating oil chance to work, it should come out eventually. Once the rubbers are detached, the pins should come out - they should rotate freely and there's nothing retaining them, so there's nothing to break only the pin itself. I did a front caliper on another car a few months ago which had one pin siezed. It was absolutely solid, and even I was doubtful... but it eventually came out using the method above. As a last resort, you could apply a bit of heat to the bracket, but this is obviously not going to do the rubbers any favours. Once you get the pins out, make sure the pin and the bore are as clean as possible, before greasing liberally and reassembling. Hope this helps! I had this fault on my MK2 - you can get the bit you require as a separate item from the calliper - it costs about

As Bingo says - not too difficult but heavy!! The Gearbox has to come out from the underneath and it's very heavy - it's at least a 4 hour job to remove and install. That said most fo the work is undoing and moving bits - the N/S bottom swivel can be undone and that gives you enough space to pull the d/shaft out of the way. Remember to change the slave cylinder while you are there . Good luck

Hmmm... sounds about right. The back box on my MK2 did exactly the same it was totally rotten yet I hadn't noticed any change in noise. I changed it at 110K miles. On my wife's Mk1 I had to change the cat a couple of months ago after it developed a crack and broke. Not bad though as it had done 148k and is the only part of the exhaust that has required replacing since I bought the car new in 1997!!! - now that's value for money.

I suggest you check Euro Car Parts web site = they have the facility where you put your Reg number in and it then lists the parts for your vehicle. By the way are the glow plugs messing about - why do you want to change them? Regards BJ

Dear All Have a look at this doc - I don't remember who posted it but it was so good I kept it. Apologies to the originator. Booster Heater.pdf

Firstly Year, Model and mileage would help. It may be something small like a sensor - or the metering pump or even a new heater complete ( around the

Hi Bathspray It sounds like the resistor on the side of the heater motor has gone. You can access it via the passenger glovebox. Do a search on Hedgehog and you should find clear instructions.

Check out a Bosch dealer - you should have one somewhere in NI - if not a postal job should do it. You will need to identify your alternator.

Hi Don't panic. I am not totally sure but Mirez will no doubt be able to confirm that it is most unlikely that you will need a new controller. I think you can use a 2nd hand one . Give a few people a chance to read your poist and see what is possible.

I had a similar issue some while ago on my Mk1 it turned out to need a new brush pack on the alternator - the brushes had worn down so that they were not contacting correctly..

An interesting conundrum - generally I would oppose buying from Ford because you know you are getting ripped off - But in this case maybe it makes sense . I understand the benefits of charcoal filtering - but I doubt very much that a lot of anything would be prevented getting into your car - Not least because the fitment is too slack and also because there are other routes into the car - If there were not we would suffocate if we turned off the ventialtion and so far that hasn't happened. To be honest as you generally change the thing once a year then

Hi Mirez I would agree with what you say except that my Condenser went after only 18 months - I didn't get a chance to change it before the leak ocurred.

I am not sure - but I think the light can come on for pads low, Fluid low. Check that the fluid resovoir has the correct amount. I found that the cable on the pads can be difficult to route and it may be that there is a snag causing a short somewhere. If you had problems with the rears then check that out for a start.

This is an interesting question - My MK2 has 167k on the clock - how long should the cat last?

:rolleyes:Thanks Mirez for an illuminating post. I have, as you may be aware ,replaced my joints some 64k ago and whilst it is relatively easy the costs are high. I have read about the Polish site and their modifications but it's great to find someone who has actually fitted them . Hopefully over time they will prove their worth. Mine is making some funny noises again so I may be in the market for a set. But , thanks agains for your piece and the excellent pics. BJ

I would also look at the drive shaft/cv joint. It doesn't necessarily have to be the Gearbox. As Gordon says - eliminate all other options first!!

Sammy I am a mod and am on at least once every day rain or shine - I haven't seen any requests fro help from anyone. - For someone who has posted 7 times and been on the site for a shoirt time you seem to want to change the world!!!

I don't want this to turn into an epic battle - but again I reiterate - anyone capable can do this. I have the spring clip tool (it cost

Chris/Mirez I am not advocating Kwikfit(shitfit) as a quality supplier - The point I wanted to get a cross is that Air Con is not a mystery it is a mechanical system just like many others on cars that a reasonably capable person can repair/fault find replace. That's all!! Regards BJ

Hi Chris This is a purely personal to me question. I have to ask this question as you seem to be constantly suggesting that people go to an Air Con specialist. The question is - Do you work for or are you an Air Con Specialist? The main point of this forum is for members and others to suggest DIY solutions to issues and problems that Ford Garages don't seem able to correct or do so via suck it and see methods with consequent high bills. I am always grateful for any advice posted on here and even if I don't have that problem I file it away for future use. I appreciate that you may have had issues with Air Con at Kwik Fit - but I have used them twice ( under close scrutiny!) and have no issue although I know they are not well rated for Air Con problems. In most cases repairing and refitting Air Con components is no more challenging than any other parts - and providing you ensure a proper evacuation and pressure test etc there should be no problems. NB I don't work for Kwik Fit - I don't even work in the Motor Trade. Please continue to contribute but maybe ease up on the reccomendations for associated trades. Kind Regards BJ

If you really do have dual air con then the figures you quote are too low being the correct ones for single air con. If you have vents in the roof (5) then you have dual and the Air con needs more gas/oil. The figurse should be on the bonnet landing next to the warning about high voltages etc.