Bigjeeze

I had a MK1 Auto for 2 years and did 80K trouble free motoring in it. It was a dream to drive. I only wnet back to manual because if the tax difference.

Yes sounds like it to me. Mine chimes when it hits 4c - either going up or down!

'Ere - anyone seen my aux heater timer module , battery and cables? I just left them on the back of my lorry and when I got back they were gone!!! ;)

My MK2 was MOT'd yesterday - failed on a headlamp out of adjustment - fixed and passed. Nothing wrong with my brakes!! 156K and going strong.

Thanks Guys I think I may be misleading you. The heater blows hot air after a long warm up - The Booster heater is working - there is also hot air coming from the rear heater vents once the car is warm - what is not happeneing is that the temp Gauge appears to move very little and never goes into the normal or central position. I have noiw changed the t stat - renewed the Coolant and it will now stay like that come whatever!!. The reason I picked up on this is that my MK2 is hot after 15 mins or 5 miles .

1)I replaced the Thermostat and have the same problem. The car heats up inside fine but it takes a long time. 2) The Temp gauge never goes beyond just off the min mark. 3) The heater matricesi ( both front & back ) get hot and pump out hot air. 4) The rad seems to stay cold - the top hose gets hot but not the bottom one. Not even warmish. 5) The Booster heater is working and helps heat up the car but still very little movement on the temp gauge and it takes a long time - more than 30 mins. It is possible the Rad is blocked yet surely it would overheat?

Anybody?

My MK1 has a problem I can't work out. I replaced the thermostat because although it gets warm it never seems to move the temp gauge off the minimum spot. I recently replaced the Aux Heater and that is working fine - there appears to be heat at both ends of the pipework - ie the heater works in the rear and the car interior will get warm - albeit slowly. When I changed the Thermostat I decided to check the rad top hose - This appears to get warm - but the bottom hose doesn't - at all. It would appear that the thermostat isn't getting hot enough to open or the rad may be blocked - but it this was the case why doesn't it overheat? Has anyone any idea as this is driving me nuts!!

Tried it - it worked!! Thanks BJ

When my clutch was going that was what I had - dragging clutch. In my case when I removed the clutch the driven plate had disintegrated so that the material was still in place but had separated by the rivets - this gave me drive but I couldn't disengage. I am now beginning to think you have fitted the wrong clutch parts. When mine went I got a new parts which matched exactly - I then decided to change the DMF (flywheel) and it was only when trying to fit it that I realised that they didn't match the flywheel - I had to go back and get a complete kit of driven plate, pressure plate and DMF all matched ( LUK). I assume the slave cylinder is also correct? I know you probably don't want to hear that but it does seem a possibility.

I would suggest disconnecting the battery and waiting for 30 mins before doing anything on the electrical side of Airbags. Don't forget to make sure you the radio code before you disconnect the battery.

No I think I'll give that one a miss - I tried being a Homosexual once but it was a pain in the arse!!

Cheers Gents I'll give that a try - Always have plenty of vaseline to hand!!! :rolleyes:

I have tried without success to re fit the thermostat housing and seal but whoever designed it hasn't understood gravity. In the end it looks like the only way I can be certain that the damned seal etc is fitted securely is to take off the water pump and do it on the bench. Has anyone any suggestions of any other way to fit the seal etc? I cannot get the seal to sit in place and the t/stat to stay in place whilst I try to fit the cover and bolts - it just keeps falling out. Here's hoping someone will respond to this post cos no bleeder ( except Gregers) did to my last one. Do people only take and not give???

Hi Gregers - thanks for replying - I can't believe no one has done this. The TIS says you have to move the power steering pump etc to get at the t stat - I was hoping there was an easy way but as no one has come bakc I 'll just have to to do it the hard way. Cheers BJ

Is there anybody there??????? ^_^

Anyone?

This is taken from the TIS Clutch Master Cylinder Check Special Service Tool(s) Vacuum Pump Kit 416-D001 (23-036A) All vehicles

I wasn't aware that a special tool was required. I haven't taken off a MK2 but the MK1 didn't need a special tool. Anyone else?

Check out E bay - I think I saw one there a few days a go.

Could be Thermostat or even an air lock

On my Mrs Mk1 I have had a great Christmas. Firsat the brakes failed - She was driving normally turned a corner and the pedal went to the floor!. It pumped up OK and when I checked it the rear pads were down almost to the metal and the nearside caliper was jammed fully extended. I used the wind back tool but it was very stiff and the bellows has shredded - so as soon as GSF get the calipers in stock I will replace both calipers as well as the discs and pads. A flush and re fill of Brake fluid is also in order. Calipers only

Sounds like the engine stabilser bolt has sheared to me - That happened to my Mk 1 the stabiliser bolt broke and the D/S ended up rubbing on the engine shield. Try getting hold of the engine again from the front and trying to rock it backwards and forwards. If that isn't it I would not drive it until I had an explantion - for the D/S to move so drastically it cannot be good.!