Bigjeeze

All sorted now - Glowplugs arrived Saturday - fitted today - Lots of smoke whilst the unburnt fuel was toasted off now nice & clear and a toasty warm car. Thanks for everyone's input. BJ:rolleyes:

Have you tried leaving it running? After changing the glowplug if you haven't cleaned it out there is usually a lot of smoke as the heater burns off the remaining unburnt fuel.

That's your choice! I'm sure not every one of the old type plugs will fail in 12 months but a high proportion did, that is why they brought out the revised plug with the fixed wiring. I found about them from a trained VAG Master Technician, and my local Ford Dealer knew about the update and agreed with it and sold me the updated plug - it cost around

Yes, you know if you've got the 'right' plug if the wires are fixed on, the old ones where you bolt the wires on are known for only lasting 12 months. I'll try and dig out the part number for the revised plug, but I was told about it a couple of years ago from someone in the trade - I went to Ford and they knew exactly what I was on about and ordered the correct but slightly expensive plug in for me. Also available from VW but it was a pound or so more at the time at VW. Slightly harder to fit as you have to prise the old pins out of the plug and push the new ones in, not exactly rocket science though Where has this come from? The one I put it my MK2 ( the one that is now kaput) wasa bought from VW dealer in Poole - it was the bolt on terminal type and was replaced in November 2005 - a tad longer than 12 months. My wife's MK1 went earlier this year and I was lucky enough to get a brand new complete heater off E bay for

Hi where did you order the plug from and how much. The plug i fitted at the start of the year has failed.No aux heater during this cold snap. I am trying to find out the number for the newer glow plug but i am not sure with one it is. I have a 2002 galaxy and fitted a GH001 last time but didnt last a year. Anyone knoe the correct number for my heater. Cheers I ordered them from AVS (2 glowplugs total

Bloody typical - My Aux heater packed up yesterday - today we have 4 ins of snow !!. I have ordered new glow plugs ( one for my MK2 and one for my spare heater) so if the postman can get here then I might just be able to fit the damn thing to get the heater working again!!!

I think you might have type approval issues - not to mention insurance problems. As Sotal says there isn't the room for a 3rd proper full size seat but maybe a bench seat could be fitted. In any event this would almost certainly be a one off .

I am thinking of doing a repair service for repairing the brushes in the run on pump. You send me your pump and I will replace the brushes and test it for an all in price of

I have some info that might be useful but I don't seem to be able to copy it from the TIS. Can anyone advise me as to how I do this? BJ

Hi BJ The earth terminal is behind the rear view mirror the + terminals are under the plastic trims under wiper blades. Thanks Chris I'll take a look later when she comes in - you know - when it's too dark to see anything!!! Well the terminals aren't outside under the trim they are inside under the trim at the side (by the little 1/4 glass). I checked and got 13.5v at the connector and as far as I could tell there is a good earth but the right side is still not working so I give up!

Just to be clear - we are talkijng about a European Ford Galaxy - and as has been said it is only the Diesel that requires a cam belt change every 60K miles for a 1998 model. If it is a petrol one then it is a chain and should be good for at least 100K miles . Let us know what engine you have and we can then give you an idea. Regards BJ

Thanks Chris I'll take a look later when she comes in - you know - when it's too dark to see anything!!!

Hi Chaps Mrs BJ's Heated front screen seems to be half dead - the drivers side doesn't work yet the passenger side does and clears thescreen beautifully. I have tried to check the earth/connecting point which I was told is under the exterior rubber tim down the side of the screen - Well this morning I remvoed the trim completely and a load of crap but can't see anything that looks like a connector. So am I looking in the wrong place. Also does the screen have a fuse for each side or just the one for the whole thing? If I can fix this my earholes will be very grateful!:blink:

I could be wrong but I think the later shalaxies had to become can bus complient - so that would require all ECU's to be connected through a common gateway......... or somink loike thaaat. :18: Long time no hear Dave - Welcome back from the ether!!

If it's a 2001 then it's only 9 years old - Perhaps if you stop telling potential customers it's two years older than it actually is you might sell it!!:(

Chris may well be right - But if you do have to keep the vehicle I would check the vacuum hoses to the servo - It's quite common for them to perish and break leaving you with no servo. It is very unusual for a servo to go. BJ

The brake light switch is joined by another switch on the pedal and also switches on the clutch p[edal - they all give various bits of info to the ECU to assist in running the engine properly. When you get problems on these switches it has some very starnge effcts. Just because your brake lights are working doesn't mean that the switches are OK. The switches cost around

I disagree - it's main function is to keep the water moving to prevent hot sapots. In any event the run on pump will not cause this problem. It sounds more like an air lock.

All done and working. I can see why they charge 4 hours of labour. Teh actual belt and tensioners bit is a piece of p*ss but the peripherals and those blood y clips take forever!!!. Anyhow - new belts .Hydraulic tensioner etc so good for another 40K to add to the current 168k BJ

Well I finally got the old belt etc off - I had bought the replacement parts from Euro Car Parts - then after fitting the tools and having everthing lined up and set perfectly - I noticed the kit was wrong!! They had given me one for a mechanical tensioner when mine has hydraulic - oh well I thought - I'll just change the water pump as I have to wait until Monday to get the correct parts - and blow me when I got the old pump off that's wrong as well!!! I'll get my money back and go to GSF this time! Some days just don't go the way you want them to! BJ

Hi BJ It's me again, Now some people and obviously the manufacturers will tell you how important it is have the correct locking tools etc but from past experience on this engine you dont need any locking tools providing the toothed pulleys are tippexed, idealy dont have pistons at TDC then there's no chance of any contact between valves and pistons should you accidently move crank or cam, always double check markings before turning engine over by hand (socket on crank) then recheck markings and belt tension before starting normally Thanks Chris I'll give it a go!! BJ

Chaps I have decided to do my cambelt as it is apporaching 45K miles since the last one. I have everything stripped down and just have to remove the old belt etc.Howsever, I am confused about the marks etc. I can see old tippex marks on the various parts but none of these match up with the crankshaft tool I have. SO my question is what do I do - Do I remove the tensioner etc and put in the new belt (after lining up the various tippexed marks or do I try and use the correct tool. I did have soime really good pics of this that someone on here posted - but they have removed them and they have dissapeared off my pc. Any good photo's anywhere of the correct method? Cheers BJ