mk2vr6

posted Today, 07:50 AM ... well it's over 12hrs now since johns reply! do we give him a bit longer or start ringing round the hospitals?

well actually john according to Ford you do need to replace the bolt! 9.Remove the wheel hub retaining bolt. Discard the wheel hub retaining bolt. 5 WARNING: Install a new wheel hub retaining bolt. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. Note: Do not fully tighten the wheel hub retaining bolt at this stage. Install a new wheel hub retaining bolt. 6.WARNING: Install a new tie-rod end retaining nut. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.

it should

never had any problems seeing mine in the dark! it illuminated brightly enough to be seen :lol:

undo the bottom hose pull it from rad and allow the fuild to drain into a container for correct disposal!

you have put the light ring back in or have got one?

VW petrol 2.0ltr ADY lump as for the auto to manual swap? can be done if you have the parts but the cost in time not just money wouldnt really be worth it! engine, gearbox, pedal box, interior trim, loom, ecu clock..... find another lump and leave it as an auto :lol:

from what I can gather it's a drifting thing, allows you to run a cheaper low profile tyre, stretch it and it gives you a stiffer side wall like an expensive tyre, ther are also several flaws in the practise! exerpt from Dunlop Corporations recommendations for rim width: "RIM WIDTH Correct rim width ensures flex at the designed flex point in a tire sidewall for optimum tire performance. If the rim is too wide, the flex point moves towards the rim area, causing heat buildup in the lower sidewall, which reduces tire life and could result in failure. Either too narrow or too wide of a rim can result in uneven tread/pavement contact pressure causing uneven wear and potentially reduced traction, or increased vulnerability to bead dis-lodgement. " Wider rims may offer some performance advantages over narrow rims. A wider rim increases the distance between the beads, which results in a straighter sidewall, which stiffens it. This results in quicker steering response and higher cornering forces. Negatively, the straightened sidewall transmits more road shock to the wheel and suspension, placing greater stress on chassis and suspension parts and delivering a harsher ride. The straighter sidewall exposes the rim, making the wheel more susceptible to damage.

so glad I could help :lol: stand back when you flick the match! the flash over from the vapour can give you a nasty burn! :lol:

10mm difference! not much but due to the loading of the vehicle I'd say no! the chances of dropping the tyre lip into the rim may be enough for a decent tyre fitter to say no! http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f245/bashaben/low%20stuff/26coolstuff6.jpg

15-20 secs before the ultra sonics arm

deadlocking - turn the key in the lock once (alarm on), central locking (alarm off) -in quick succession turn the key twice to the lock position

unlikely to be an immobiliser problem! the immobiliser does just that it stops the engine from running it doesnt set off the alarm! to do that you either have to open a door, the bonnet, the rear hatch or disturb the ultasonic sensors, no where in the oe fitted alarm info can I see a voltage sensor mentioned!

because you have to fight your way through the chavs parked up outside and then theres the BMW X5 brigade on the school run and the after school treat at the maccy D's next to it to contend with..... I'd take my chances at the dealers :wacko:

yes, it should and if you set fire to it it burns as well, you'll need to know that fact as at some point during your ownership of the vehicle you will feel like torching it :wacko:

the brakes and the clutch share the same fluid source, but for some strange reason the brakes take priority over the clutch for fluid when the levels get low! :angry2: try topping it up and see if it helps? or your clutch or clutch slave cylinder is on the way out or has sprung a leak! are you loseing fluid?

it would matter if they are not connected to the front or routed wrong so that the front is bypassed?

aahh check the pipes to the heaters are connected correctly?

how long have you had the vehicle? has the front always blown cold?

try bleeding the system, with the engine running for a few minutes leave the wheels straight, then turn the wheels from lock to lock and hold at full lock for 10 seconds at each side, check the fluid level and top up if needed

try here.... they did ok for me, came out to my home address, cut and programmed two keys on the drive way

this was a known fault on early mk1's IIRC they fitted a shut off valve to the rear heater unit to give the front unit priority to the heat, or your matrix's blocked? you have an air lock? or your control cables are u/s does the front kick out heat if your moving?

LETS PUT IN WORDS THAT EVEN YOU COULD UNDERSTAND.... NO why should it? it tells you that the doors and tailgate are open/ajar and as they have dual pole switches and the bonnet doesnt! so what do you think?

from the great www.wjjeeps.com web site :16: This extremely handy feature was eliminated on the 2002 models. The bright light was conveniently mounted over the dipsticks, lighting the entire engine area. It works with a gravity-type switch that turns the light on and off when the hood is opened and closed. 2002-2004 owners can easily install the original factory hood lamp. The screw hole and mounting tab are still present, hidden under the hood insulation cover. A rectangular piece needs to be cut out where the mounting holes are. Wiring must be run as well. A fused hot lead can be run directly to the battery or under-hood fuse box, or fed across the hood (under the insulation) and through the firewall to the inside dash. The ground wire can be run almost anywhere. It's probably possible to tie into the interior light system for the benefit of having the automatic 8-minute battery protection off timer, I have not been able to confirm yet how this can be done, as that would be ideal. Otherwise, a manual on-off switch can easily be added during times when you don't want the light to stay on, as when leaving the hood open for extended periods. The lamp-end electrical connector plug is not available separately, so one must either purchase the harness or devise a way to connect the wiring to the 2 lamp socket pins. Wires can be soldered directly on, or attached to the right size push-on connector ends. Another alternative (better but more expensive) is to purchase the factory wiring harness. This will allow a direct connection at the lamp end, but it must still be manually attached to the battery or + connection and ground as vehicles produced without the hood lamp do not have a factory wired receptacle available for the harness.

the alarm only arms if you dead lock the vehicle, dont dead lock it and it wont go off!