Mirez

Yup, fully interchangeable.

It was a Y reg TDI115 in a light blue. Engine, Gearbox, Interior have all gone, in fact quite a lot has. I've broken cars in the past for the various forums I've been active on at the time. What I used to do is once I've made the outlay and some profit back on ebay I'd sell the remaining bits on the forum for whatever the users wanted to pay. I normally go in with two others, one has mechanical bits, one has panels and wheels and I normally just do interior. We had good sucess on ebay with this one so I'll be doing it again - let me know what you want and what you consider a fair price and I'll hold those parts so as long as we do ok, that'll be the price you pay.

But as you've just said you are doing regular servicing work. I too have had very little issue with mine but do exactly the same, there seem to be a fair few people who'll just use a car without any servicing at all and then wonder why stuff breaks! :)

Serial type, not USB so more reliable in establishing a connection.

Just remove the torx screws in the bottom of the boxes, IIRC both need to come out, the little one first.

Continuity simply means a circuit exists, be it complete or shorted - electricity could flow from point A to point B. To test the resistance properly you need to measure the resistance of your meter by simply puttng both probes together, you then subtract that reading from the actual reading to get the proper resistance, which I'm guessing will be even lower then 1ohm. Electroclutches are nothing more then a big coil of wire, when electricity is passed through it, it creates a magnetic field which pulls the plate against it (and thus engages drive). Typically, the more load the clutch has passing through it the larger the winding. On a 12V system resistance will be lower but still anything less then 1ohm would suggest the circuit is probably short circuited if not partially shorted. With such a low reading I highly doubt you'll be energising the whole coil, more likely just a very small part of it and therefore not enough to generate the electro-field needed to move the clutch.

I "think" 19 is the glowplug relay, I'll have to confirm that for you (if nobody else has) sometime next week though.

Lol diesel the dog, love it :o From general reading it would appear the VW TDI's don't really like being fiddled with that much - quite a few horror stories even with proper rolling road remaps :)

Its not overly easy, the proper way is to remove the front bumper, drain the coolent system and remove the radiator and then unbolt it. If you subscribe to the unofficial way to do the A/C condensor then its not much different to that - drill 4 holes in the retaining plastic and you can access the bolts just fine. Got my replacement from a local breakers in the end from an 07 sharan. The one I have for sale is for a 90hp version, its not the same as the 115 although it could have been made to fit I guess - should have done a little more homework first!

Well to start 1200g is for dual A/C so unless you have air vents in the roof above the 2nd and 3rd row seats then it should be 750g. Because there seems to be soooo much confusion on this I've even gone to the effort of scanning in the section from the brochure. So here: if you don't have those extra roof vents then you 100% have NOT got dual A/C. A 3-Way pressure sensor is fitted to all Mk2's however to detect under and over pressure in the system so IF thats working correctly then it should have shut the system down if its been overgassed. Assuming they are correct and you DO have dual AC then the system should be working - its actually normal to just about feel the A/C compressor as it takes an awfull lot of power to compress the gas, and is normally accompanied by an engine tone change and a slight dip of the rev counter. So moving on I see two potential issues. Firstly, the compressor could be seized resulting in a big extra load and no A/C. You should be able to see this with the bonnet open as the center core won't spin when the clutch kicks in to engage it. Secondly, given what you were describing I take it the car wasn't getting up to anything higher then say 15/20mph? The A/C system needs to rid the hot air and it does this by putting it through a radiator at the front of the car (A/C term: condensor). In slow traffic there isn't any airflow over this radiator which is why the front cooling fan should be engaged as soon as A/C is turned on - if this fan isn't working then you'll get very little cooling effect from the A/C as it can't rid itself of the hot air. Dropping 1200 to 290G in 10 days though is a clear leak, the most likely being the receiver drier and cap.

In a word... yes, but mainly because of what you are coming from. The 2.3 is 143Bhp so dropping to just 90 will be noticeable - you wont overly feel it at low speeds on acceleration as the 90 produces more torque then the 2.3 but as you reach higher and onto motorway speeds you'll really miss that extra bhp, especially if you are laden. 115's shoudn't be hard to find though on a Mk2 as they were nearly always the specified option? *Edit* I should clarify that I've never driven the 90ps version so it would be best to wait for the opinions of people who have driven both, however I went from a 2.3 to a 115 and found it fractionally slower as above so loosing a further 25 horses would have bothered me. Likewise 115 to 130 was a noticeable increase.

Well thanks for the compliment! Are you taking it out of circuit to test? You need to be doing that else you could damage the ATC controller as its linked. The clutch is dioded for some strange reason so it'll only work if you get the polarity right and thats 12V in on the Green/Black and ground on the brown. Since you are going direct then the pressure switch won't have any effect and it should just work - the only other possibility is a pressure switch internally but I'm not aware of the galaxy compressor having one fitted.

They first started fitting them in 2003 (53 plates) and the Mk2 stopped production in 2006 hence where the 03>06 years come from. The grills are interchangeable with earlier ones though so X>06 however you'll need the chrome strip fitted to the bonnet to complete the look and that involves drilling and riveting and if you want it perfect then the bonnet release lever should be changed so it won't catch. I've done three now and its not that hard :o

Save your money, or if you must - go to Maplins and ask for a 280ohm resistor for about 2p and fit that instead. Its nothing more then that in a fancy package designed to fool the ECU into overfuling, which In reality can cause all sorts of problems with running and will almost certainly lower your MPG - any "performance" increase is likely to be minimal and more likey to be a placebo effect.

As Chris says thats the emergency key which they suggested at the time be "placed somewhere outside the vehicle" - yeah, I can see the insurance company loving that. It has indeed got a transponder in the top of it, however I believe that a large number left the factory without being coded to the car as I've seen countless numbers which needed programming to make them work - my own needed coding and the car was Ford owned from new and then us with both the second key and emergency one being on the same unused ring in a sealed bag! We need a full description of what happens to be able to help further...

Vagcom is slightly more complicated in that you need a laptop and cable however the huge benefit is that an OB2 reader will only read engine fault codes. Vagcom can talk to all the controllers in the car so its far more usefull as a diagnostic tool.

I assume you mean the BACKS of the pads :)

I thought the wires were insulated and became connected via the disc when worn? Nope, its a loop of wire embeded in the pad which you basically erode as you brake until the point its open circuit.

I wouldn't be in a hurry to strip down the turbo, less still to replace it! Sticking vanes is ever so common and symptomatic of short trips / town driving. You need to "exercise" the turbo and you'll be fine however there are two important notes: Firstly, you need to have a good cam belt on there. If its due a replacement then get it replaced first! Secondly, ensure its fully warm - this is typically a good 20 minute drive. Coolant temperature is irrelevant here as its oil temp that

Excellent. Thanks for that. You don't know whereabouts I would plug it in would you?? Above the accelerator pedel. As the dash starts and centrally, just below the fuse box opening.

Sadly Jay, the back ends already gone. <_<

Following on from my last clearout, this is whats left: I'm also in the process of dismantling a Mk2 Y reg Zetec... Console Switches: Heated Front Screen Heated Rear Screen Hazard Warning ESP Park Assist Heated Passenger Seat Heated Driver Seat Mirrors: Driver Side Wing Mirror Passenger Side Wing Mirror General: Mk1 TD Intercooler (New) Mk2 Cup Holders x2 Mk2 Headrests x2 Oyster Beige Mk2 Chrome Coat Hangers x2 Mk2 Zetec Alloy Wheels in kerbed condition lol Xenon Passenger Headlight -Ballest Mk2 Full FIS instument cluster Mk2 Factory Speakers x4 Wood inserts for the front dash and door cards, 4 pieces in total. Front Parking Sensor Loom assembly, 4 sensors and loom to wing connector. Front wing indicators/repeaters Sunroof Motor Rear Vent window electric motors x2 Drivers Rear Central locking motor 12V Fridge, not galaxy specific. 12/240V operation. Heat/Cool, High Capacity Just make me an offer! If you dont and ask for a price instead I'll just give you the best price it last went for on ebay.

Its connected to the bumper, there are 4 or 6 clips in total - there is no real easy way to replace it with the bumper on as you can't get to the clips. I've had no problem with just pulling it off with brute force just be carefull not to damage the bumper.

Nope, its either red, blue or green. Blue for the Sharan, Red for the Alhambra and Green for the Galaxy, it all depends on the LED's installed and they only produce one colour so no configuration available - you could replace them but they are the SMD type so you'll need to be well versed with a soldering iron.