Mirez

D5Z-Z is the easier one as described in the big thread - D5Z-F requires the water pipes to be removed as well.

The one with the trailing lead is for the later heater D5Z-F on a 53 you'll almost certainly have a D5Z-Z and need to get the plug from VW/Seat as ford don't list for the Z series. Part number is: 7D0-963-319 and is about

A normal allen key is all thats needed, pops in the end of the thread.

Interesting post, congratulations on the fix ;)

Really? I pay, you pay - what makes him so special? If he can afford an 05 saab he can afford to pay the duty like everyone else so personally I really hope he gets caught and C&E royally shaft him. Anyway, all ECU car's need a MAF sensor and I would start there as the symptoms are characteristic of MAF failure. A failed turbo wouldn't stop it revving up but tbh there are a number of other problems that could cause this. Blocked CAT Blocked Air/Fuel Filter Blocked/Dirty injectors Any one of around 10 ECU sensors to name a few. The trouble is garages are required to report the use of red diesel, if he puts it in for diagnostics, the staining may well get noticed.

Your old version of vagcom should be fine for connecting to the newer gal as its still K line communications and not hex. The judder isn't normal but it may or may not show on vag-com The cambelt is 60K on 03> TDI's

Cheers George, I must say I'm not that happy to weld for exactly the reasons you've given but

The headlights must be on (not sides)- they should then deploy each time the windscreen washer is used. If they don

Thanks guys, I think I will actually take a punt on a weld. I really can't see why this should be moving at all - In my opinion, the movement should be taken up by the inner CV joint, this joint is the one that runs right next to the turbo > intercooler pipe and its said that the heat from this pipe cooks the CV grease and raises the resistance in that joint. Its certainly a theory that could be possible, I'll take another look next weekend (and maybe learn to weld in the meantime!)

Whilst under the car fitting the replacement sump (done, sender works - not leaking yay!) I took a good look at the o/s halfshaft joint and to be honest it looks quite dodgy! If I grab hold of the shaft I can rotate it about a mm and there are clearly filings of a copper colour metal around it and the surround so its probably on the way out (66k) I've taken a good read on here but there seems to be some confusion about exactly what needs to be replaced and where to get it from. So to those that have done it: 1) The coupler from the gearbox to the end of the halfshaft is a dealer only part right? 2) The halfshaft itself, can that be sourced from a factors or is that dealer only as well? 3) Should the carrier/bearing assembly be renewed at the same time? and then if anyones able to explain exactly why this joint is here it would help as I can't work out why there should be any movement in it at all - the bearing and circlip should stop it sliding from side to side but that seems to be the cause of the failure? I dont really see why it can't be welded to make one shaft?

The halfords ones do not work with the McGuard nuts fitted by ford, the number should be somewhere - you can then get a replacement from McGuard. My local tyre depot have a McGuard master set for the Ford ones, may be an idea to try that just to get them off for the moment.

You know what, just looked them up and you are right! They came with the car and since I was replaceing them anyway I didn't really pay them much attention. :rolleyes:

and for those interested: My

Yeah looking good Mirez. Got any updated pictures yet :rolleyes: Nope, had to go away on business so put the car back together again. Still have another full FIS cluster that I can fiddle with first but right now the sump is next on the list of things todo so I can get the oil temperature sender working. I've tried it off the car so I know it works but its a bit of a bugger VW didn't just blank where the sender should be instead!

As attached: As said they are "well used" the tyres are all Michelin with around 3mm left, center caps are audi (as I nabbed the ford ones for my current alloys).

Bloody hell thats a scary post :( Whilst you are correct I'd like to calm a few people and point out that on modern TD's there is nearly always some oil in the intercooler and that its perfectly normal, if its pouring out then yes there may well be a turbo issue but a misting or small residue is perfectly acceptable and comes from the crank vent.

I know I've said this before but the receiver drier unit (which sits in the tube on the side of the condensor) is a SERVICE part and has a scheduled replacement of TWO years. When you buy the replacement it comes with its sealing cap. Its this cap which has two foam seals on (one seal on the earlier ones) and its these that absorb moisture over time and rot, causing corrosion of the condensor and allowing the A/C gas to escape. If everyone added this to their routine servicing then the number of A/C faults we see on these forums would, IMO, be drastically reduced.

A waste of

MPG is hugely variable. The main things to "up" MPG are: 1) Regular Servicing 2) Sheding weight 3) Correct tyre pressures 4) Driving style 5) Journey conditions / time / Geography 6) Speed and so many other things... Staying below 2000 isn't necessary a good idea, you may find more rev's with less acceleration will help in certain conditions and the occasional blow out will also help. Looking well ahead and predicting what will happen is the biggest tip for fuel saving, my regular style of driving would see my gal getting 30mpg, however I drive it gently (as its mine lol) and I normally get 37/8. If I concentrate hard I'll get it up to 45/6 mpg, maybe a little higher. I really wouldn't be worried with 37mpg!

Perfectly normal, you are in trip "1" which resets after roughly 3 hours of inactivity - ie, your journey data. If you press the reset button (the one on the underside of the stalk) breifly, you'll move to trip "2" which wont reset.

There is also the possibility that you dont have the filter installed due to poor servicing, wouldn't be the first time and would also give you dusty damp air. Good advise above though, certainly sounds like you have a blocked drain - only thing I would say is that you should wrap lots of insulation/selo/gaffer tape around the end of the coat hanger - the last thing you want to do is damage the underseal down in the scuttle or the back of the wing, considering the amount of water that (should) pass through the holes it'll rust in no time if you do!

Then you have it and its not working! Not had the V6, but the 2.3 was vacumme driven and I "think" the V6 is. Take a read here: Linky

Hi Philip and welcome to the site, you have chains on the V6 so all good there just keep an ear open for rattles which might be the plastic guides breaking down - other then that it should go on for ever as its a solid lump. Depends on the spec as to if you have cruise or not, its on the left stalk if you do The warning sign is the ESP light - in other words you are either cornering too quickly or accelerating to briskly :)

Thats about the same as mine looked on an 03 at 60K, what mileage is yours solar?