Mirez

Question 1 - does the yellow light come on when the wires are open or short circuit ? Its a ground circuit, when the pads wear though the circuit becomes open and the lamps lit. Question 2 - is there only 1 sensor for all 4 wheels (the back brakes haven't been touched. No, on the diesel there are two and the petrols normally have all 4. The TDI's use the LH Front and RH Rear pads. Question 3 - How thick should the back brake pads be when new - I'm guessing a lot thinner than the front. It will vary depending on make, normally its between 10 and 15mm with a minimum of typically 1.5mm. Most times its because the cablings not been run correctly after replacing the pads sowhen the brakes are applied the small extra movement of the caliper is enough to break the circuit. Check that connector again, if need be get a replacement from a scrapyard and solder it in as thats the likely problem you have.

Can you take a better photo?

YM21 1K013 AB (1126877) x4 @

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You can replace them with a set of locking wheel nuts for a galaxy/sharan or just 4 normal bolts

Put the car details in your signature then we'll know what box you have ;) Its a different procedure for the auto box and also different between the manual 5 and 6 speed boxes.

Good news! Just to clarify why this is - the rear stop lights are filament lamps which draw 21Watts. The third brake light is made of LED lamps which probably consume less then 2Watts hence. Its this difference as to why it will "see" a fault with both brake lamps out but not with the LED one.

Do you work for them by any chance? 6 posts and all of them with the above link? ;)

The most common cause would be a blocked fuel filter but I assume thats been renewed if its been to a garage already?

Likewise, that'll be the fuel pump priming. Directly below the drivers seat (underside of chassis) is a diesel heat sink which normally makes a quick squelshy noise as the fuel rails are primed.

7M3145846A is for the new, steel part.

They can be renewed seperately, 4 in total.

Ahh yes there is as I finally found out after a couple of hours of the same pinging problems :16: Look into the door side connector, you'll see a purple plastic pin sticking out of the center - this locks all the wiring pins in place and without it in the correct position you'll never the connector back onto the chassis side connector as it moves a keyway around the outside of the connector with it. You need to slide it fully home before making the connection between door and car. You should be able to look down around the outside of the connector between the base of pins and the outside sheath (the threaded bit) to see the purple keyway moves, you'll know its in the correct position once thats moved out the way.

It can't be a fuse as he had 12V on pin3 of the red connector - could only have been a loom issue if it isn't arriving at the relay. :16:

Strange they are shown as both being 25A. Can you see their output colours? They are supposed to be fed from the same supply so should both be on the blue cable. F34 outputs a Red (with black tracer) cable and F35 outputs a solid red. Both are 4mm cable so substantial! The relay is K73 and is described as under dash, passenger side. Which is pretty crap really but should be easyish to spot as it appears to be on its own with a black base. It seems a basic relay from the wiring diagram, with one ground, one switch, two supplies and two outputs. The switch Wire from the ATC panel (the red connector pin3) comes in on pin 6 so 12V should be there with everything on. Ground is on pin 3 Supply from F34 is on pin 4 Supply from F39 is on pin 2 Output from F34 is on pin 5 Output from F39 is on pin 8 So theoretically you should be able to bridge pins 4 and 5 for the front fan to come on and pins 2 and 8 for the rear. You could also take the connector off and put 12V onto pin 6 and a ground on pin3 then measure continuity between the pins to prove its dead..... Once you've found it :16:

Alloys, cup holders, ESP switch, Sunroof Assembly and Sump - all sold. Both Mirrors reserved. Any more interest before ebay?

Lol, yeah its not exactly frugal and with 4x4 I imagine you'll take the corners much better! Its currently at 342Bhp but a couple of other owners have hit 400+ :lol: I've been offered an RS3 which is 4x4 that I'm toying with at the moment, needs major work to repair though but could make a nice trackcar. Going to Japfest this weekend?

No an 03 :lol:

Bring it :lol:

Not that I'm aware of. They do two versions of the fridge though which is what I use. Get a Mk1 version if its for storage as its wider and one big compartment - the Mk2 fridge has two compartments but also heats. Both clamp to where one of the seats would have been. Somewhat expensive option though as they normally fetch

Right then the blower is fed via a relay (K73) which is powering both the front and rear blowers. Get your volt meter out and check: F34 and F39 (both 25Amp) and intact (take then out of circuit to do this!)- there supply is switched by this relay and powers both the front and rear fan. They are hidden from view and will require you to drop the box slightly for access, both are in the top left corner and are the 8th and 9th in from the left. Next, with ignition and climate on you have 12V on pin 3 of connector C312. Thats the RED one on the back of the climate panel and thats the trigger for the relay, you'll obviously need that plugged in whilst measuring so be sure not to short anything out! Then, at the front blower - disconnect the connector and measure voltage between the Red/White pin and a ground source with the ignition and climate on. You should have 12V here if the above 2 tested ok. If thats not the case the the relay is defective, or the supply to F34 & F39 is missing. If you do have 12V here then measure resistance between ground and the Black/Red pin. A resistance control unit on the ground side is how the blower speed is varied, if you showing open circuit on the black/red pin then its this thats likely to have failed. Report back!

What year is the car? Put your car details in your signature! There are quite a few revision changes to the heating system.

Oh yeah there is also a climate control panel, sunroof assembly (yeah the whole thing), mirror control switch, 1.9 Sump and 1.9 engine bay loom :D In fact, anyone got a chassis I could buy to bolt this lot back together? :blink:

Look under "412 03A - Air Conditioning" instead, then reference the "Removal and Installation" section for the clutch and cutoff switch. ATC module usually refers to the "Automatic Temperature Control" module which is the climate / AC panel itself. The thermo switch will probably be the iceover switch and thats located on the evaporator housing behind the dash. The PCM is the "Powertrain Control Module" or ECU.

One or more of 2000+ possible fault codes has been logged, you need to get the fault code memory read to see what the problem is :blink: