Mirez

Aww bless, well I've already shown you mine and well, for that matter I've had a good play with yours :D but since everyone else is being miserable!

Interesting reading, thanks for taking the time to post the conclusion :blink:

I'm told a garage clearout is needed :blink: so this lot needs shifting - as usual, any offer's before the bay? Full compliment of center switches: Heated Front Screen Heated Rear Screen Hazard Warning ESP Park Assist Heated Passenger Seat Heated Driver Seat Mirrors: Driver Side Wing Mirror Passenger Side Wing Mirror General: Mk1 TD Intercooler (New) Mk2 Cup Holders x2 Mk2 Headrests x2 Oyster Beige Mk2 Chrome Coat Hangers x2 Mk2 Zetec Alloy Wheels in kerbed condition lol Xenon Passenger Headlight -Ballest Mk2 Full FIS instument cluster Mk2 Factory Speakers

Hi Graham and welcome to the site. To answer your questions: 1) You need something to reset the codes with but yes you can do it yourself. You'll need a diagnostic tool which "speaks" KW1281 or VW :D - the most popular by far is VagCom/VCDS from Ross-tech - the free version will reset the codes for you just fine but you'll need an interface cable either from their site or a cheepo copy from ebay. 2) I would say thats a fair assumption, not much else will produce the thick smoke :blink: 3) For the aux heater about 15 in total. If you get a decent diag tool you'll be able to see the ones that are logged, many cheaper versions just reset whats in the memory.

VA is front, HA is rear - its not an equal drop for some reason so the fronts going down 30mm and the rear between 20 and 25.

Should do, the cougar was fitted with the 5000/6000 series. Just make sure it didn't have the lowline (monochrome) navigation but the other ford units should be fine. Someone selling just the mag: Magazine Link Probably just worth checking the changers a visteon unit (will have a label on the side) first, as ford did have a brief spell of Clarion and JVC changers though I've not seen a galaxy with one before.

Cool ;) Could well be a build up of dust in the throttle position sensor. Think there is a fairly detailed post about removal, cleaning and rebuilding somewhere on here.

Nope! Very strange, I wouldn't worry about it then - if you have vagcom then read the codes else just wait and see if anything comes back. Is your cluster display full size or half size? If its full size then press and hold the trip button with the engine running (either up or down on the right stalk) for 5 seconds or so - scroll the menu to "Vehicle Status" and see if its saying anythings amiss -without the airbag light being on though I suspect it will just show as "ok." in which case chalk it down to a comms fault and ignore it ;)

From SEAT it was damn expensive and came in at around

Nothing to do with the clockspring, the pre-tensioner lives to the side of the front seats under the kick trim on the floor. Its responsible for taking up any slack in the seatbelt and keeping you locked into the seat before an airbag activation. The airbag light should now be permanently lit though as the VAG system wont reset airbag faults automatically

actually bad idea in this case, the 6000 is a ford player made by Visteon. Sharans and Bammas have changers made by Blaupunkt so the cassettes wont fit! What you should also try searching under is mondeo, focus and escort as they have 5000s, 6000's and 7000's fitted ;)

i'll be joining the lowered people in the next couple of months, mainly because I think the galaxy grips very well once its gone through its body roll and I'd like to cut that and also because I too never carry 7 people and think it sits way to high in the arches - even with 18's it looked high. My plan at the moment is to use the OEM Seat sport pack which would lower by just 25mm but stiffens the ride significantly.

Well it would be a first I think since: The A/C has its own fault code memory. That memory isn't linked to either the engine ECU or the clusters warning light on the 2.3 None of the A/C sensors can talk to the ford ECU None of the A/C sensors are linked to any OBD fault code Aside from the drive belt the A/C system isn't interacting with the engine in anyway. But post the code up... I could be wrong :D I've never once said if you remove the lamp the system will fail to operate, however IF you remove the lamp you won't know if/when you get ANOTHER engine fault code and the COMBINATION of the existing code, coupled with the new one, could easily stop an engine running, especially since I compleatly doubt your current fault code has anything to do with the A/C system. Its sort of irrelevant anyway because as I stated its a surface mount LED so needs to be de-soldered from the board if you want to remove it - I'll also warn you that some of those LED's are monitored by the clusters controller which sounds the buzzer if they fail (or are removed) but I'm not sure if the management light is one of those monitored. The diesel uses the glowplug light instead of the management light, it still functions in the same way alerting the driver to the more significant ECU faults. :D

Its highly unlikely to a screen fault, the controller isn't exactly robust so this could be the cause but far likely its a wiring issue as the wiring is extreamly tight and over taped which strains the connector. There are 2 joins in the loom and its made of 3 plugs. From the controller in the back of the center console to a connector under the front seat to a connector behind the rubber passage between seat and headrest. In my experience its most likely to be the connector under the seat, and normally seems to by the red wire on pin 1 (sync)

Yup this kind of bodge really scares me. If this was the brake warning light would you be so eager to "just remove the bulb"? The ecu has got a fault with something, who knows if it gets another it'll be able to keep the engine running? Nice thought if you are cruising down hill at the time with no power steering and heavily reduced brakes (and possibly a car full of kids). Warning lights arn't there because the manufacturer thought it would a laugh to fit one, it's their to warn you something needs attention.

Can you guys confirm what the symptoms are? I've got a rumble when its idling, more of a resonance then anything which dissapears when the engine is rev'd. The belts not bouncing, there is no "alt workshop" message and whilst I can turn the fan blades on the alt they dont exactly freewheel.

Yup done that :rolleyes: If you buy the system complete with front seats its a doddle - if you get just the headrests then its not tricky, just fiddly as you need to run the cabling up the seats.

Yup, they are surface mount LED's so unless you are handy with a soldering iron then you cant take them out, the engine management lights not used on the diesel though so sounds like you do have a petrol?

Is the radio a consistant or random flashing? What model is it? The climate panel flashes to indicate a fault condition is preventing it from working correctly, the 1 signifies an error code is logged.

Search for broken door wiring, its also in the FAQ. Extreamly common.

If you are doing it yourself then TOAD, if someone else is fitting it then CLIFFORD. Toad's generally arn't as fussy with their wiring as cliffords so can be easily plumbed in by most competant people. I've got a TOAD Ai606 on mine ;)

Maybe part of the problem but to do all that can only be a power/ground issue. It should be easy to fault find as well since so much is mullered, start by checking the voltages on the battery with and without the engine running, then pick circuits in the cabin and do the same. I'd also be testing resistance between chassis points and the battery to start with as I too suspect thats an earth fault over anthing else. Good luck!

It was a truly lovely pie ;) I could have had much more so samantha if you want to make another, feel free ;) I did take a photo of it as well just for you Chris - I'll pop it up once I've found my phones cable. As for the wiring, found 5 wires in the drivers door all degraded. Soldered in replacement wiring so its all fixed for her, even fixed the dodgy parking sensor wiring (forgot to tell her that so we'll see how long before she notices lol) Greg, whats up with yours? I'll happily meet up with you if you need something doing, especially since I want to borrow your alternator tool :D

Oh right. And does the chain need replacing at scheduled interals? Not normally, most say if you get anywhere near the 250K miles (yes 250K) marker then its prudent to but for most thats unlikely. Just keep an ear out for signs of tensioner failure/breakup.