Mirez

Yes they did one but it was an expensive option at

The chrome makes a big difference to the black ones, I got mine from a local breaker -

Yup, will fit fine - two screws and one bolt. The chrome clips onto the plastic trim, so that has to replaced - its about

It was "refreshed" during the 03/53 period - there were a few cosmetic changes but thats it with the biggest difference being the front grill.

An FM modulator or aux input if the stereo supports it. Its not wired to the sound system from the factory.

Too many possibilities to diagnose over the net. Could be anything from an engine mount, to an exhaust shield to the dreded worn splines. You need to get under and take a look, check the condition of all 3 engine mounts and the whole exhaust system.

As is exits the compressor, the pipe loops down and back up on itself, changes to flexipipe, into a small expansion vessel and then joins another just under the drivers headlight. Its at the loop that they normally fail - some literally snap in two. IIRC its a little over

Thats not correct, sounds like a possible defective switch.

No, its not used on the diesel. The glowplug light doubles up as a management light on the TDI's

To clear this up, Mk1's <2000 have remote global opening enabled in software - if its not working then you need to reset it as shown in the link. Mk2's >2000/55 have the option disabled by software. Mk3's 06> have it enabled again. Therefore there is no simple way to simply turn on remote locking on a Mk2 - it must be recoded within the ECU.

As below: Cover, upper (FINIS 1211871) 1 @

Thanks mate, yes its just a matter of turning on a bit in software. Later varients could indeed open but not close the windows - designed to be a safety thing... anti-trap and all that. Its not that tricky to enable but you do need a laptop that runs pure dos with a serial VAG-COM lead (no usb), anyone that fancies a trip over to Westbury and I'll do it for you... for the obligatory pack of winegums :rolleyes:

YES! A VW changer and lead will plug right into the back. Want me to find you one on ebay?

Why not just attach a CD changer? Or get the VW 6-disc in dash changer and mount it in one of the glovebox's if you really need to change more then 6 discs on a journey! The ford nav unit is Double-DIN, the 5000/6000 as fitted to everything else is DIN.5 (1.5 DIN). Both are standard radio sizes so you could get an adaptor to fit a single unit if you wanted.

Mk2's all have a blower in the rear, its foot level though and only provides heat and fan function (no cooling). Roof vents above the center and rear seats were available as an option only and indicate dual A/C - ie the rear blower can also cool. All Ghia models will have 4 electric windows, again on Mk2's all ghia models should have electric opening rear quater vents which is the 6 window's you refer to. You won't find one that has both dual A/C and 6 E/W's though as the ducting for the roof vents takes up the space where one of the rear quater window motors would be - the one remaining side will still be electric though so you'll have 5 E/W's instead <_<

There in lies the problem, the "consumable" sump nut is made of a stonger material then the aluminium cast it sits in so any tightening/crossing issues (albeit they shouldn't happen) will always strip the thread from the sump before the nut - poor design IMO. The only saving grace on the galaxy is that the sump can be dropped with ease as nothing else has to come off. When I replaced mine (to fit the level sender) it took a little over an hour and cost

Mike, what are you planning to WD40? The sensors? Not ideal mate! Which ones have failed? If there is no ticking noise then its also possible that its not receiving power - the wiring loom is known to break just before each rear sensor, I'd check that first. IIRC Greggers lives near you, I'm sure he'll scan the car for you for the price of a pint :rolleyes:

Hi Andy and welcome, technically the 6 speed box is filled for life with no maintenance or topping up required. However take a look at this thread: Other thread especially page two, you'll find the part numbers and capacity for the new oil.

If the replacements have the screens as well then yes, raise the headrest - seperate the rubber gaitor and disconnect the wiring, swap and repeat. If they dont then no as the wiring is well contained within the seat.

As attached :rolleyes: GalMan.pdf

Dear God, it was extreamly optimistic to ask 3 years later but 4 years on? :rolleyes:

The software for the mileage is a doddle, I have it but that info is held in the cluster (VDO) and is just a hex string, no encrytion or protection :rolleyes: Both the PATS and IMMO system are fully encrypted, and both hold the decypher code embeded into the same controller. That code can only be read with yet another code, and that ones manufacturer only, with the dealers needing to request it directly. The modern VW's go one step further - the "GECKO" system as they call it is 100% private, once the dealer has contacted VW direct and got authorisation, they connect the car to the PC and the encryption, coding and authentication all takes place directly with VW's server with no codes being visable to the end dealer. Its also a one shot deal so if they screw up or disconnect the car too soon they need to get authorisation again! The upshot is that I'm not aware of any software publicly available that can write to either of the systems :(

Classic coil pack failure, there are two on the 2.3 each controlling two cylinders.

A quick point to be wary of here, most of the time the mobile places are cloning keys, not coding the car's module. For anyone that's interested: Each key has a transponder in it (basically a unique digital code) that's read by the car at ignition on. The car's immobiliser (PATS on Galaxys, IMMO on sharans/alhambras) has a reference table of the "accepted" codes (up to 8). If the coding is done properly then a second key's code is added into this table, so you have two unique keys with two unique codes and a clear difference for the PATS system to see - thus allowing further coding at home. What the cheaper mobile places tend to do is read the code from the existing working key (key1) and then overwrite the transponder in the replacement (key2) with key1's code. The car's code table isn't altered so as far as the PATS system is concerned only one key is "known". Regardless of which key is then used to start the key, the code is always the same from both and hence the car starts. There are two massive downside to this however, one is that you don't have unique codes/keys and therefore can't programme anymore yourself. Two is that should the key be stolen you can't have it removed from the "accepted" code table as you'll also disable the second. There is also the rare chance that if code1 in the table gets corrupted, both keys will fail to work. Its a matter or cost over reason I guess - but very few of the cheaper places will admit thats what they are doing when they "code" a replacment key for you.

Thats highly likely to be a copy of the Ford TIS CD, widely available to buy on ebay or you could ask someone on here nicely to make a copy for you. If you've got a bit of internet savvy it can be easily found to download for free. :rolleyes: