Mirez

Yeah they both have electric water heaters - basically a couple of glowplugs in a pot :) The golf has the electric version fitted and it sort of works, there is heat warmth from cold, probably 7*c or so above ambient,

and mine - bugger!

If anyone's interested in gently lowering their gal, the original "sport" suspention kit from ford is on accessoryplus.co.uk at the moment with a 15% special offer - its only a 30mm drop but made by Eibach and is also the kit fitted to the sharan sport and the sporty alhambra (the name escapes me) Just ordered mine @

Deffo defective, the wiring won't be causing any issue like that :) There are 3 types but all fit and its only cosmetic. The early one with a bulb on the back, a later varient of that with LED's and one with LED's and a chrome bezel.

It really isn't that difficult a job to remove the shaft from the car, the passenger side is the harder of the two. You can remove it by seperating the track rod end and ball joint - there is then enough room to slide the shaft back and out whilst pulling the hub forward. Having just done the half-shaft its attached to I can tell you it would be possible to do it from under the car if you really really don't want to remove it but it would be tricky, and the chance of getting dirt in the joint would be high given you are below the engine.

It should be 10,000 miles but if you have an oil quality sensor then it may well be looking at that, its also possible the dealer didn't reset the count after he serviced it. Short journeys generally mean you need to change the oil earlier rather then later. You'll need to remove the undershield to drain the oil out and that's probably the biggest job in terms of time, the PD engine is actually one of the easiest I've worked on it terms of accessibility for service items (except the pollen filter!). If you look at the underside of the sump and see a circular object with 3 thorx screws there then you have a quality sensor, if its blanked then its counting miles and/or days. All galaxy PD engines use the same oil, just make sure its designed for the PD and you'll be fine. Reseting the light varies by year - there are a few options you can try and most are detailed on here. Removing the engine cover is a simple pull up job, there is nothing screwed or bolted it simply lifts up. The oil filter is under there is a screwed canister, again simply unscrew it and the oil filter lifts out - there are two oil seals that should be replaced at the same time, most filters come with them. Air filters in the box, front left of the bay . The fuel filter is at the back, right of the engine - you don't need to prime it, just turn the ignition on/off about 4 or 5 times to fill it and you should be fine. If you are a quick, compentent worker then you'll be done in 40mins.

Errors are never good :) If you go into mesuring blocks do you get a figure for both the front and rear sensor?

No worries, I'll report back in time - especially if prompted as I'll probably forget lol - but my initial verdict is that its well made and should be good. Oddly enough one of my deciding factors in going non OEM was that my gals only done 68K miles from new - for a major component like that to have worn so quickly can only really be bad design and I was somewhat bothered that new OEM bits would do the same. That said the new ford parts do show as being a revised asssembly but I can't see any reason why this polish assembly would fail at all as the splines much longer. a good fit, well greased and sealed. I would suspect the bearing will fail long before the splines wear out again.

Didn't see it to reply too ;) The diesels tend to hold their value much better then the petrols but thats all down to economy - both the 2.3 (Ford) and the V6 (vw) engines are extreamly robust, the fords been around for a while being introduced in the bug-eyed scorpio and also featured in the older transit lineup whilst the V6 is the same one they fit to golfs (VR6). The diesels are all VW PD engines (except a few early Mk2's) available in 115, 130 and 150PS varients yet all 1.9. It really depends on what you value most, the V6 is the fastest of all the gal's, only the TDI150 will come close to it, the 2.3 isn't that much more progressive then either the 115 or 130 dervs. Economy wise the petrols suck, sorry drink. The 2.3 will just about crack 30mpg, whilst the V6 will struggle for 25mpg. Diesels seem to average around 40mpg. Spec wise, aim for Zetec or Ghia, the LX is a big to basic. There wern't that many options to be ticked on the extras list so if you aim for Ghia then you'll get a good spec anyway. Options were: Sunroof or Dual A/C (not both) RSE (Multimedia system) Navigation Xenon Headlights ESP (standard on V6) None of the options really give any trouble - xenon headlights are certainly worth finding if possible but everything else is only realy "as needed"

If its properly stamped then follow those numbers not mine! ;)

Nope, the coil pack is 6-4-2 on the top row and then 1-3-5 on the bottom with 6 being the one in the corner next to the harness wiring connector.

Well I got around to looking at replacements for the half shaft assembly and stub joint piece last weekend, there is a lot of info on here regarding noises, metal sounds and loss of drive so I won't talk that much about the issue as if you've got to the loss of drive this might not be a quick enough fix anyway! However enough to say that if you have any of these symptoms: Clunk on take-up Clunk when releasing the accelerator quickly in 4th or 5th Clunk when changing from 1st to reverse Sloppy feeling in the driveline Difficulty changing gear 'Chipping' of gears, especially 2nd and 3rd Red dust Then it would be very prudent to get the joint checked out! There is a lot of info on here regarding this, so get reading however I've tried to put as much info as I can into this post for reference. I got quotes from VW, Seat and Ford, with Ford being surprisingly the cheapest of the three: Parts FINIS: 1140358 - Shaft Assembly 1313097 - Shaft 358 would appear to be a revised number as it now includes the support bearing and retaining cap: The prices are however, still quite scary coming in at

The normal cause's for that include most of what you have changed and unfortunately the dreaded headgasket, you need to get it properly diagnosed but its quite possible you have a leak between a cylinder and a water way ;)

1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4 With 1 being the back left cylinder as you look at it, so standing at front of car looking in: 1-3-5 ..2-4-6

http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=6897&st=15 ;)

Set them to home, wait for the motors to stop moving then manually adjust them if needed and finally save the settings. If you've done it correctly then you shouldn't have any error codes logged, and its only if there are no codes that the self levelling system will work. The system only adjust the headlights when they are first turned on. Some VW's do sweep the headlight beam up/down as part of their warm up sequence but the galaxy won't do that - it will only adjust if there is a change in load since last time they were switched on. Real time measurment happens, but only when a number of parameters are met will it try adaption. There needs to be no significant change from both sensors, speed must be a 0 and both conditions must stay for around 30 seconds for adaption to take place - you should be able to see in meauring blocks - look for ADP ok, which should change to ADP Run. when its checking them.

I've fixed a number of galaxys with the noise you describe and its always turned out to be the door mirror. Mk1's dont seem to be effected but the Mk2's seem to have a design issue that sometimes raises its head. Replace the wing mirror with a Mk1 assembly would be my advice...

Yes, but why not just put it into the "new" key rather then glue it to the barrel? Leaving the "new" key's transponder inside it with the other glued to the barrel isn't a great idea as they can cause interfearence with each other. The other thing to remember is that you'll invalidate your insurance by bypassing the immobiliser system.

:16: Cheers all, appreciated!

You should be able to to reset them however they will still need to be aimed if they or the sensors have been disturbed at any point. I've posted details for how to level on here before, I can't search at the moment so you'll have to trawl back though.

61p each IIRC, you can get packs of 10 on ebay for a fair bit less :wacko:

I've had a fab day thanks, although I am now just one year away from 30 which is a little concerning lol! Thanks all!

I don't get it? What ball?

I assume someones checked the MAF? The most common reason for sluggish and poor performance! If not then you'll find it in the pipe work from the airbox (drivers side of engine) its the first electrical item - disconnect it then go for a drive, if there is no improvement then its quite possibly defective which won't normally show up on any sort of diagnostic machines but its so common I can't believe its not been checked already. I've never heard of an ECU failure causing this type of problems, the fueling maps are ROM stored so it would need to be seriosuly broken to cause the issue. Again injector faults might cause this issue but you would need multiple ones to fail to be pumping fuel in at the rates you say, and thats unlikely - you havn't said what mileage you are on though?

No list that I've seen, its more for diagnostics then for changing stuff. In fact there isn't that much that can be changed - parking sensor tone and volume probably being the biggest 'change' you can do...