Mirez

Mk2's use PATS (Fords immobiliser system) and not IMMO (V'Dubs) therefore you won't have a SKC code, instead you'll need someone who has IDS (and knows how to use it properly lol). Whilst its a pain for you it's a good thing, Fords PATS system was much more secure then the early IMMO system and it wasn't til about 2004 that the sharan got the IMMO2 security and became 'almost' as good as the PATS system.

Nope! email me bud, this site is virtually dead now :( "myusername"@fordmondeo.org :)

Think you need to be looking at F30 and F31, 10Amp - both in the CJB but right at the top and not in with the lower "bank" of fuses. F30 being the likely suspect as its linked to the central locking, alarm and courtesy light circuits :rolleyes:

What year?

I do have a virtually new one here, just the fob piece not the key, feel free to make an offer :rolleyes:

They are glued on with extreamly sticky stuff! If you really really really really want to remove them then you'll need a lot of heat to get the strip and glue as hot as possible, then some fishing line to slide behind and then peel them off. You'll then need a good 3 or 4 bottles of some kind of "sticky stuff" remover, and about 2 hours per door. Its much easier to mask the car off and pain them in situ! An IPA solvent will remove the polish marks and get it ready for priming.

Siemens 433.92Mhz PATS2 Part: 5WK4 790/97/98 (also look for SWK4 790/97/98 as a lot misread the % for an S)

Hi and welcome to the forum, however all the answers you want are already on here - search aux heater for more detailed answers. 1. Does the aux/booster heater provide heat for the rear passengers? Yes 2. Is the aux heater needed for winters only or all the time? Below 10 degrees 3. Can there be any damage or problems if i disconnect it? Slower warm up, increased MPG and possible engine wear 4. Where can i disconnect the electrical connection from? i.e. can someone show me a photo of its location? Fuse 18 5. Where is this aux heater glowplug? Internal to the unit, follow your arrowed pipe back to it.

Did you actually search? There is a ton of information on the net... with a good couple of days reading just on here. The TDI is a VW engine and uses K line communications which isn't OBD2. Sell the lead back on - it won't work as the communication takes place on different pins to OBD2 - then purchase a VAG-COM cable and software set.

90AMP for Mk1, 120AMP for Mk2 so a little over 1Kw for the Mk1 and 1.4Kw for the Mk2 - I get the feeling you actually mean how much can you draw from the auxillary systems (ie the 12V outlets) though? In real terms that electrical system will handle a theoretical 720Watts with the front and rear sockets being fed from seperate lines - this should enable you to draw 360Watts max from each socket (with the rear being /2 if you have dual sockets) With most car fridges being around 35/50Watts and DVD players coming in at around 40Watts you'll be absolutely fine. All the vehicles own circuits (including A/C) will have dedicated feeds and can be ruled out. If you plan on running this with the engine off though then you need a whole different equation ;)

MPG is massively open to contributing factors - there is no set "efficent" speed however generally the slower the better. 5th being more econonmical the 6th is entirely possible, I would hazzard a guess you were quite laden at the time? Again generally, the lower the RPM the less fuel is burnt in order to propel you forward which is why 6th is normally preferable to 5th. Let's say "normally" you use 40% of the engines power to maintain 70 in 6th, as rolling resistance increases (weight, tyres, wind, etc etc) a point will be reached where the power required to maintain 70 in 6th gets closer to 80%, ie the engine is working hard to maintain the lower rev position - Changing to 5th up's the rev's but more importatly - available power, which is why sometimes 5th can be better then 6th.

Lol, no problem. I probably should have put a few more :o :D :D 's in there to make the point that is was said in good humour :angry: I went through this when I was about to change mine, 52/03 seems to be the change but you really can't tell.

Sammie, I have a great invention for you: :angry: http://wordpress.yell.com/builders/files/2010/02/tape-measure.jpg Use the chassis number not the reg as you need the manufacture date, not the registed dat. If you send me the chassis number (VIN) then I'll probably be able to tell you but even then it'll only be 80/90% accurate and in all seriousness the only sure fire way is to measure whats already on the car.

And since I just happen to have one sitting next to me (hasn't everyone? :angry: )... this should help:

4 in total, two at the top, two either "side". The top two are under plastic caps, the other two are in line with the bottom of the headlight - look down the back and sides to see them. When sliding it forward be extreamly carefull the metal guides don't scratch your bumper!

Oil running out of the pipes isn't right, there should be some down there but not really enough to 'run' out, more a misting. Lots of oil in the intercooler can only really come from the turbo, so I would diagnose turbo seal failure :angry:

99% of the time that would occur because the engine is burning its own oil, check your level and it'll almost certainly be down a little. The most common reason being a blown turbo allowing oil to pass into the intake system (remove the hoses into the intercooler to check - there should a be a "little" oil in there but if its runs out then thats a deffo problem) else it'll be internal engine seals :angry:

Toad are great, cobra are reasonable. Galaxy locking isn't normally a problem though - I would investigate your problem a little more as it'll take a little effort to wire it in - also the control module was moved from under the passenger seat in about 1999 :angry:

Midway up the bulkhead, passenger side. You'll need to take the undershield off and look up to see it - its almost directly below the coolant bottle.

Sorry chap, I meant its not that clear on the parts catalogue - its sort of the only bit it could be but rather then just quote the FINIS codes to your dealer ask them to find the parts for you then compare numbers, hopefully I've got it right for ya!

Yup, and thats the only configuration I'm aware of.

No idea chap, unless its something to do with the ford radios? If you have the steering wheel controls you loose the stalk controls - afauk thats it?

Cruise on the left, radio on the right - the stalks different is all. :D

Normally, hissing noises from the passenger side are a sign of low gas - is the panel flashing when you first start it? Try a more reputable company to check it properly. :D

Hi Andy! The seatbelt mechanism is right at the back of the headlining under that "lump" to get to it you need to lower the headlining - remove the D pillar covers, the two plastic screws and the tailgate rubber. You should be able to lower it enough to get access to the mechanism, just be carefull not to bend the headlining too much as if it creases you'll never get is out!