Mirez

what year/model?

OK. Thanks very much for the tips! Now I feel more confident in replacing the brake fluid! One more question: Do I really need 2 litres of brake fluid? Probably not but if you run out mid way through then you will contaminate old and new while it sits waiting for you to walk to to the shops and back, brake fluid is quite cheap - you are saving on the labour, dont skimp on the fluid :wacko: Final tip, remember brake fluid is corrosive - avoid getting it on your paintwork at all costs!

Found it fascinating just how far this stretches, also how many airports are closed as a result!

The chirp is done with softcoding on a galaxy but its todo with the market rather then as an 'option', you might possibly find channels 3 and 4 available on a Mk1 but they certainly won't be readable or adaptable on a Mk2 using VagCom - and to reiterate, you really really shouldn't be adapting values using info from another model. :wacko:;) ;)

You need to be very carefull there! The Golf's modules and their operating software are different in quite a few ways to the Galaxy ones - adapting the gal's modules using a golfs (or any other VW model for that matter) codes and settings could potentially brick the controller.

Correct, the new ECU isn't enabled. Fire up Vagcom: [select] [01 - Engine] [Login - 11] Enter 11463 to activate cruise control [Do It!]

If they've put too much gas in then the panel should still be flashing as the pressure switch will now be high instead of low and the same fault code will be logged. If its not flashing then either its leaking out or they didn't fill it for a dual system. Either way if the system has been run with double the amount of refrigerent in it and the switch hasn't detected an over pressure condition and shut the compressor off then the compressor will probably be dead as it'l be trying to compress liquid and not gas.

Clear the codes and see what comes back, 18008/00668 are almost certainly a flat battery in the past. 17978 is a normal immobiliser code, an unrecognised key is the cause which again you just need to clear and see if it comes back. 17965 - search for sticking turbo vanes :) but again clear the codes. At the moment you have no idea whats new and what occured 5 years ago!

Typically 4*c, it should be working fine with the current weather - if its not then check the front fans are turning when the A/C's on, seems to be another issue!

Everythings possible, but thats an involved project. To start, you'll need the boxes swappped - the driveshafts are also different so will need to be changed. You'll then need to add the auto controller and all its wiring - if you have a doner vehicle of similar year it wont be that hard but it will be time consuming and if you are paying someone else to do it I doubt you'll see change from

With softcoding/eeprom editing?... I won't say no 100% but its unlikely, its certainly not been done before. You can buy an aftermarket interface to do it but its not cheap and not been used on a 7M chassis so doubt it would be guaranteed

The system can't check the brake circuit until after you've pressed the pedel once after ignition on, it will show the lamp fail light until then. Is it on all the time?

Just lost loads of skin myself trying to get the clips off, only had a rubbish pair of pliers to do it with, so didn't manage too do it which really pee'd me off, so i'll guess i'll try again tomorrow when and if i can get the right tool to do the job...... I hate those clips, I have a massive selection of jubilee clips that I replace them with every time I do a job that involves them! Did the run on pump last weekend and just changed the fuel filter ones today ;)

Galaxy? Sharan? Alhambra? Petrol, Diesel? 1995? 2001? 2006? Gee us some clues!

Just noticed all my typs's - I really should learn to type lol. The bottom cowlings a pain to remove but will come, it is possible to remove the screws with that cowling in place anyway. How come its coming out?

Just a note, use a block of wood and a trolly jack to support the sump before undoing it - its not ideal to just let it drop.

The data plate is on the heater casing, the metal pipe is the air intake and will need to be removed - its only pushed into the rubber holder.

Yes, I have no idea why they say to remove the wheel! Remove the cowling, then you can get to the two thorx (iirc) screws holding the bottom of the cluster in - use a small allen key to level out the top of the cluster - reach in and disconnect both wiring connectors then adjust the steering wheel fully forward and fully down (in must be in a central steering position, not to one side) the cluster will then slide out to the left. Two points. 1) dont put the ignition on with the cluster remvoed as you'll log an airbag fault 2) I've never refitted the two thorx screws, its held stong enough with just the pressure plate

Yes is will, it it can't work out where the camshaft is it'll throw all the timings out and run horribly!

You can :wacko: X,Y and 51 plates could have both spec'd - it wasn't until 02 that they realised it wasn't such a good idea!

As a question, when you put the hazzard lights on WITHOUT the trailer connected, is the <1> still flashing? Mines done this on both Mk2's with different wiring kits so it seems to be normal, just wondered?

If you are hearing a knock when accelerating then the play is serious enough. VW/Seat can't help you because the 2.3 is a Ford engine and only fitted to the Galaxy version, you shouldn't put off fixing it though, most of the time failing parts will only degrade something else into failing and this mount area is known for issues on the 2.3. If its allowing enough movement to knock then its excessive movement and I would say that before long it'll snap the retaining bolt which is extreamly common!

Read the PDF I wrote towards the end of that thread (about 4 pages back from the end) - you shouldn't need to remove the fuel pipe from the heater to change the plug.

Its the button on the underside of the stalk to get back to memory 2 ;)