Mirez

Not true for Xenon headlights. They DO require Vag-Com to active levelling mode however the galaxy is done via "Left Light" and not "Xenon Range" like most other VAG cars :wacko:

Yup, pretty much everything I said could be done I've now done. I'm midway though auto headlights and wipers at the moment. Its quite envolved though, but I've been lucky enough to get hold of the EEPROM maps for most of the controllers.

The red key was a PATS 1 thing (immobiliser) - it was basically a normal key by all definitions (started car, unlocked) etc but whenever it was used it enabled access for removing and adding additional keys. PATS2 (from about 97 on) replaced the red key by requiring two unique keys to be inserted to access the programming mode. When the red key was ditched the "emergency" key made a debut, this was a plastic key (the whole thing, shaft and all) which was supplied with two additional keys with a new car, contry to most reports it did contain a transponder and so could be used to start the car and as a second, unique, key to enter programming mode, sadly however it needed to be coded at the dealer and many forgot which is why most emergency cars will only open the doors. It was phased out around 04 where fords all came with either two remote keys or one remote and one regular key depending on spec - this of course has the problem of as soon as you loose one key you are stuffed... My advice for anyone with only two genuine keys is to obtain a third immediately and code it yourself - despite what a lot of websites claim you code the unique code of the transponder to the car - therefore you don't need a virgin transponder, any old galaxy key will do!

Fuse 10, a red 10 amp fuse in the main panel is for the media system - check that's not blown. It also requires the radio to be in the on position so if you were in silence that could also be your problem! -_-

The motor unit also houses the home position sensor, if it wasn't in the fully off position when it was removed or installed that'll cause the issues you describe. Disconnect the motor from the mechanism, plug it back in on its own and tell the wipers to do one wipe, that'll set it back to home and then when you connect it back to the mech it'll be in the right place.

I will happily slate Shitfit, having had my A/C overcharged by them which destroyed the compressor. I have never taken a personally owned car to them since, however I am compelled to take the Golf as its a company car - I've used Bath, Trowbridge and Devizes depots. Bath let me drive off with just two wheel nuts on each rear wheel, the result was one wheel sheared the bolts and fell off at a roundabout - they paid compensation and repair charges but that could have been at 70 and not 30... The trowbridge one have had the golf back 4 times - each time they are unable to balance the tyres they fitted properly, its finally been sorted by the devizes branch which I have to be fair are nice, knowledgeable chaps. I now drive the extra 20miles to go see them rather then use either of the other two and, as said, I still wouldn't take a privately owned vehicle to them.

There ya go: Thats the only bits you can order for the mechanism, as the guys above have said you can make long term temporary repairs or source another -_-

Yup the last one will do ya ;D

They are really hard to come by now, however you could always just ask to borrow mine... -_- -_- I've lent it to a number of people now. We've been doing a paypal gift payment of

As above, its HIGHLY unlikely to be the evaporator and much much much more likely to be the condensor.

You've answered your own question there Si, the tensioner pully is worn. Either replace just the pully or the whole tensioner.

ID33 Casing, made by Philips. Used to carry part number PCF7931XP/SQ back in 2000 - not sure if that's still the case but the one you show above is an ID44 casing

You could buy an aux belt for a model without A/C - you can then simply bypass the compressor entirely.

Pfff, the reply will be "We filled the system to the lower level, since we've now recovered all the gas you won't be able to prove anything but... see ya!" You won't get anywhere with them, just don't use them again!!!

I would suggest its far more likely to be a seized compressor, if the action of turning off the A/C stops it then theoretically the clutch must be engaged and then disengages when you press the button - as it should do. Has it been not been working for a long time prior to the regas? If not then I would be highly suspect of the garage having overfilled the A/C system with the amount needed for dual A/C (not at all uncommon) which may then pass liquid into the compressor (which can't be compressed - hence it seizes or fractures), in which case I would get it evacuated by another company with a record of exactly what was recovered - if its more then 775g then it's been overfilled. On the otherhand if the answer was yes, it hasn't been working, then its probably just naturally seized through lack of lubrication. Either way a new compressor isn't really a DIY job, its easy enough to change but you'll need to get the system drained before you start, then evacuated and filled afterwards which normally makes it easier to just get them to change it at the same time and save all the journeys.

I had something similar, needed two people - one to apply inward pressure on the boot (ie pushing it hard towards the closed position) and someone else to then operate the handle.

If its on right then it can only really be the wrong belt or a broken tensioner / pully

:P I should possibly rephrase that... lol

I can give you one right now :P

Its self tightened by the tensioner - how loose is loose? More then 2cm would suggest you have the wrong belt - there are a fair few options depending on engine and spec.

I have some others, you don't generally need them though as its only really specialist functions that require you to login. NO! :( Its all to do with hardware timing, anything running in a windows environment including VMware just won't work. VCD-P is donkeys years old - it simply can't be made to run reliably in anything other then its native DOS. Just try googling it, everyone concurs - it can't be done!

No. But only because I hate reading old threads where the info went to PM and you are none the wiser! So, if you are reading this a few months/years down then line then thank me for thinking of you lol :) You need two things: A SERIAL K-Line cable A laptop that with DOS installed VDS-Pro There are no two ways about it, USB cables just won't work. XP/Vista command prompts won't work it MUST be pure DOS. Vag-Com can't do it. There are no two ways about it, USB cables just won't work. XP/Vista command prompts won't work it MUST be pure DOS. Vag-Com can't do it. I'm aware I've written that twice but I need to highlight it :( Nothing but a serial cable and pure DOS will work, and on top of that we are going to re-write flash memory here - you need an ultra stable platform for this. I'll point out at this point that if it looses comms midway you'll need a new controller, if you arn't comfortable with changing this or if the values below don't tally then seriously - dont do it! I've attached VDS-Pro to this thread, so you can download it - however if it gets trashed then it is/was available here as well: VDS-Pro Download Link Boot DOS and run VDS-P. Open controller 9 and then use function 20 "RAM Read". It'll then ask you what block to read - we want 61003. Now, all being well you should get a decimal value of 17 back - which results from binary 00010001. We need to enable the second bit which gives a binary value of 00010011 which, converted to decimal gives 19. We now need to write this back to the EEPROM, which requires us to Log-in. The security code for the galaxy controller is 21318 - that should come back as "OK" and you can now use function 27 "EEprom override" to store 19 in 61003. When done cycle the ignition and you should then have remote windows :D vds-pro.zip

Would still be a lot cheaper then getting an alarm installed :(

:( As with all things it just depends on your skill set and background, its not hard but it is a little involoved. If you arn't computer literate you'll find it hard but if you know your way around DOS and have a general grasp of hex and binary then its nothing more then a simple byte change to enable it. I would be happy to enable this for anyone who wants it, so next time you are over this side of the country I'll do it for you or alternatively I pop over to Kent every couple of months.

It can be enabled :(