Mirez

The OBD socket is just below the fusebox door (above the accelerator) - you need K-Line communication which is supported by all the new versions but normally people use 409.X which is the knocked off ebay versions!

Vagcom can activate the ABS pump bleed procedure and its quite possible you will need to do that if you've had a complete loss of fluid from one set of lines. It'll also tell you what the cause of the light being on is - some errors do need to be reset after correction so you may well find its as simple as that.

Cheryl, where abouts in the south west are you? Ideally you need someone local with diagnostic equipment that can scan it for you as it'll tell you exactly what sensor is giving you grief. If its a wire its most likely to be at the connector on the back of the rear sensors - however its just as common for the sensors themselves to go defective.

Don't pay for it!!!!!!!!!!!!! Get the serial number from the unit (Starts with M) and PM me...

No worries: Pin 1, Brown, to ground (via one splice). Ground point G14 Pin 2, Brown/Blue, direct to PCM (ECU) on Pin 16 Pin 3, Red/Blue, power supply (via two splices) from F30 (Fuel pump primary circuit) Pin 4, Blue, direct to PCM on unknown pin - I would suggest 17, 14 or 39 Certainly appears to all be direct wiring back to the ECU without and connectors. I would check the resistance of pin 1 which should be very low. Then, with ignition on, check the voltage at pin 16 which should be at or near 12V. Pin's 2 and 4 are the signal (4 being high, 2 being low) - you can't do a lot with a standard volt meter here but with the ignition off you could check continuity back to the ECU but its unclear where pin 4 terminates/originates - based purely on the wiring colour and position 17 looks favourable.

Andy, put the vehicle details in your signature (or at least the post) - I can look up where the wiring runs from for you but not without knowing what varient we are talking about!

You are trying to enter the wrong mode ;) Assuming you have swapped the blade and transponder over then the car should start fine and you don't need to enter PATS programming more - its the remote side you are trying to fix? To enter that mode: (1) You need to stand outside, shut all the doors, then use the key in the drivers door lock - turn in to the right (left on some) and hold it there very briefly then release and repeat twice more - when you take the key out of the lock the red led on the door should then be illuminated. (2) Press and hold the lock button on the remote then press the unlock button 3 times - release the locking button and both the car LED and key LED should flash to confirm they were coded correctly - you now need to quickly repeat step 2 with the other remote key else that'll stop working as they must be coded at the same time!

Probably turbo failure, oil then enters the air intake causing the engine to burn that instead of diesel (hence it reving on its own and stopping making no difference) - because its burning oil not diesel you get dirty black smoke from the rear...

I'll try and explain this best I can but I got quite involved when I did it so if I ramble on and its not clear then post back and I'll try and clarify some more ;) The clusters are made by VDO and the last digits normally represent the part numbers varients and revisions - in this case its denotes the internal hardware, illumination colour, "operating system" version and model specifics. The cluster requires 3 layers to work, Hardware Operating System EEPROM data The software version can only be found by connecting to it but its largely irrelevent for what we are talking about, the EEPROM data on the other hand is really all we are interested in, it essentially tells the cluster how to behave. It contains literally everything the cluster needs to know about the car to work, from the mileage to configured options, to how to read the speed and where to point the needles. In the early clusters a speed sensor bolted onto the gearbox provided a pulsed signal, referred to as the Gala(VW) or VSS (Ford) signal, and the cluster used this to calculate the vehicle speed. Circa 2002 this was done away with and the ABS signal was used instead with the frequency of the pulses being higher - its this change thats causing your speed to be out. Its easy to get confused with the software available to fix your problems: VagCom will allow you to set the key functions such as language, engine and optional equipment (ie disable the oil quality sensor) and is used to communicate with the car modules in "VW-Speak" VagTacho on the other hand can do the above but also correct mileage and allow you do read and write the EEPROM data. Its not made by the same comany as VagCom and confusingly communicates in "VDO-Speak" so can do much more then VagCom. It uses different pins on the diagnostic connector to speak and hence why you need different leads. VagTacho is certainly the more powerfull tool for this application, but you need to know its not as user friendly - correcting mileage and reading/writing the eeprom data are the only simple functions, everything else requires you to manually change the EEPROM data (which is binary, presented in hex) and largely undocumented!!! If you are interested, heres what the EEPROM map looks like: Fortunately, for what you have planned its quite strait forward. Because your overlaying the old clusters data into the new one, everything should be done for you on. You'll need to: Connect the old cluster and read and save its eeprom Connect the new cluster and read and save that eeprom (just in case) Then save the old clusters eeprom data to the new cluster Restart the cluster (unplug the blue connector for 10secs) If all go's well then the cluster will be an exact copy of the old one, mileage and options will all be set for you.

Its also worth pointing out that the Sharan on test there is a Mk1 sharan, not Mk2 - a lot of additional safety kit made it on to the Mk2 sharan including side airbags and crossmember supports.

The pad light is only linked to the pad system, the handbrake light doubles up as a low fluid light so its certainly an issue with the new pads. Remember this is a very simple ground loop circuit, a voltage is applied to one end and if its taken to ground its happy - any break in the circuit will chuck the light on. There is only one ground point and thats at the rear, the voltage is applied from the cluster to the front pad and then to the back and on to ground. The fact your light came on with the handbrake would make me think the cabling isn't routed correctly at the back and is under tension.

Was it a genuine condensor and drier? Pretty bad if it was!

Lol, comparing the two is pointless. Its like comparing PC's when ones a P4 and the others an i7, the Mk3 SHOULD be better - it was designed nearly 15 years after the Mk2. Frankly I think the Mk3 should have done a bit better really...

"Oil Sensor Workshop" by any chance? Turning that off is a simple coding option, at the moment its been told it has the oil quality/level sensor in the sump and being a 2.3 your car hasn't hence its throwing the wobbly. Using VagCom to get the soft coding for the new cluster you can change the second bit from whats probably a 1 or 2 to a 0 to disable the quality sensor. The speedo being out depends on how much, just a tad then it can be corrected in vagcom, lots will require a bit changed. To do the latter, you'll need VagTacho and a different lead. EEPROM cutting and pasting lol, is possible, and in theory will work fine. There are a lot of cluster hardware revisions though so if the year isn't the same then you could potentially have problems. Whats up with the original cluster?

Correct on all counts, the sensors should be interchangeable as the wiring connector is the same for both. You need to depress the tab to allow it to disconnect. I would be cautious of shorting out that connector (which you'd be doing with a fuse) as yes the heater will come on at all times until the coolent temperature reaches 75*c. The obvious downside is that you'll be using more fuel then you would normally but more importantly in warmer temperatures it'll be firing up and reaching temperature quickly, little start/stop sessions are quite destructive to the operating life of the heaeter.

No air up to the vents could be a couple of things, the common(ish) one is the flap motor sticking - Vagcom can report that though so see if you have any error codes for it. The A/C will undoubtably be the condensor. The receiver/drier unit sits in a canister thats part of that housing, it does filter but its primary job is to remove moisture from the system. This is a CONSUMABLE part with a service schedule of every TWO years but unfortunately nobody ever bothers which is why the sealing rings degrade and the gas all leaks out. (and then they complain thats its broken and the galaxy A/C is so unreliable) :( Theoretically you could replace just the drier unit, which, if you get from a dealer, comes complete with the cap. In most cases however its been left so long that corrosion is also present and the sides of the housing will be pitted making a seal virtually imposible. In that case condensor replacement is the only alternative.

Not advertised all that well, 6 seater cream leather interior and cards for

In Ford world you simply "detach" it from the main bumper. It reality you haul on it until it comes away! Its held by 4 or 6 clips that seat into cut outs on the main bumper, I've always just tugged them hard and havn't broken one yet!

I would suggest its probably not working and the previous owner has pulled the fuse for it. Check the fuses (can't remember the numbers off the top of my head) and I reckon you'll find a missing one, hence no communication.

They are only

Allmost certainly insulation breakdown on the wiring between car and door (in the rubber sleve) - seach for broken wiring and all will be revealed including how to repair ;)

Don't know why, might just be the photo's as they are only 17" audi wheels over the standard 16"s An early, pre Mark photo lol: Removing the strips was easy enough, just painfull and time consuming getting all the glue off! I also ended up with the paintwork being much lighter under each one (should in theory have been darker!) which was apparently water in the laquer - ended up using a heatgun on each door (gently!) to remove them, but yes, it looks much better now as a result :)

There ya go, I don't really need to say which are before and after :) however: Before: Rear spring difference: After: Mine dropped 32mm at the rear and just 11mm at the front which suits me down to the ground as its an MPV at the end of the day and I dont want to be kissing any speedhumps.

Reply 3 times to this post to get your post count to 5 - that'll remove the stupid limitation