seatkid

Its usually the voltage regulator, brushes worn out - they can be replaced. Exploded view of an alternator Look here

Well, there's only 4 clips to undo....surprised you havent tried this already! Check to see when the air filter was changed, it should be changed every 36000 miles / 3 years. Inspect the filter (make sure you take it out and look at the dirty side - the upper is always clean) - I wouldn't recommend driving without a filter even to test it - the turbo could be damaged by the dead bumble bee / debris being sucked in. Even though it got worse without the MAF, that doesnt totally discount the MAF being faulty. You could always try cleaning the sensor (by taking the sensor element out of the MAF housing) - thats worked for a couple of people. You also probably have turbo related problems, which are usually either leaking /split/collapsed vacuum pipes (control side) or a sticky turbo actuator. These stop the correct boost being developed causing the limp mode problem. It could be a combination of all of the above.

12.6 volts is not the correct charging voltage - should be at least 13.5 volts. Sounds like a dead alternator (most likely the brush pack is worn out - these can be replaced on a lot of alternators) Should be easy enough to find the fault. Easier with an "assistant" 1. With engine and everything off, if battery stays above 12 volts its unlikely to be a faulty cell in the battery (12.6 - 12.8volts for a rested fully charged battery) 2. all ancillaries off, and start engine 2. Measure battery terminal voltage at idle - should be above 13 volts - certainly if engine revved a bit it should rise to about 13.5 volts, if not Alternator dead 3. If its OK, then turn on headlights and REAR heated windscreen. 4. Check battery terminal voltage still above 13 volts, if less than 12.5 volts - check the main fuse box for signs of melting, otherwise almost certain alternator fault. 5. With engine still running, check voltage at an auxillary power point (cig lighter) - should be 13+ volts - if not then a wiring/fuse box issue. 6. Now turn on FRONT heated screen while watching battery voltage, if it dives (engine revved) then FRONT screen may have a short circuit.

The oil retention valve is integral to the oil filter on models fitted with screw on cannister filters. Cheap aftermarket filters often don't have them or are low quality/faulty. Only use OEM filters.

AFAIK all vw engine turbos are controlled by a vacuum operated actuator. It sounds as if yours is stuck in the boost position. This from what I read is usually because of failure internally of the vane mechanism. If I were you I'd take the turbo off, examine and start a strip down. Alternatively spray liberal amounts of WD40 to the actuator rod (turbo end) and after a soak-in period use pipe plieres or something similar to work the rod - see if it looses up. There is a thread posted some time ago with photos showing how to do this, apparently the actuator rod can become encrusted with hard carbon, jamming its movement. PD engines are all variable vane, the old Tdi 90bhp (AHU) was waste gate.

I think the easiest way is the old fashioned pipe in the tank and suck until syphon action takes over trick. Other methods involving disconnecting fuel lines are too hazardous with petrol, and could also throw up faults on the ecu if the ignition was turned on as well. Why not just add

No adjustment possible its hydraulically operated. Clutch or release bearing, both involve a gearbox removal/refit. If you've never done a clutch before, its unlikely that you would want to tackle such a big job. From Bigjeeze's current thread about his gearbox, its a good possiblity your clutch is shot (as his was).

I had a squeaky belt on my golf a long time ago. Used some talc on the belt and it reduced the squeaking. French chalk is supposedly the stuff to use. Its most probably due to a misalignment problem, which may be the tensioner or it could be a manufacturing fault with the belt. Make sure the ribs are running in the correct grooves!

The problem is the cable not the fuse box. The crimp is faulty and getting hot. Known and common fault. New cable required.

But in the bedroom? :rolleyes:

:rolleyes: Obviously the credit crunch is not affecting jkspoff... Between ~

I would suspect an air leak on the inlet manifold after the throttle body. Check all pipes are secure and not split.

Deleted......gone to check my info.....

You have to establish if the clutch is not dragging, i.e. fully disengaging. Thats the usual cause of reverse gear denial - the only gear with synchromesh. Check the brake fluid level and that the clutch pedal is coming up fully and down to the floorpan fully. Could be a master or slave cylinder problem. Doubt that gearbox oil would affect reverse, other gears would be first to suffer. Could be internal breakage in reverse gear selector mechanism.

Humbug.... :(

I once experienced something similar, the brake pedal had not released fully. I noticed it when moving forward in a slow queue, I sensed something was wrong. I put my foot under the brake pedal and it moved up maybe an inch and the brakes released fully. I checked the brakes within a couple of minutes and sure enough they were very hot. My solution was simply I "exercised" the pedal a lot, with considerable movement/pressure to "loosen" it up. Too lazy to investigate further or lubricate the mechanism. Since then I've got into the habit of checking with my foot that the brake pedal has released fully, just in case. Other thing it might be is a fault in the traction control if you have that option.

Contact social services, explain the situation and see if some help is available. Childrens welfare is, after all, a high priority.

Write off categories Have you done any research as to real Market value? - if you can find vehicles similar to yours at a higher price then you can use that as a lever to get the insurer up the offer. Cat C is "possible structural damage" - in other words the assesor doesn't know and/or can't be bothered as in his opinion its a banger anyway :( . It would need a geometry check to establish structural damage plus a new MOT and VIC after repairs. The vehicle would have zero resale value having a Cat C stamp and may be very costly to reinsure. Look around for a replacement car. Keep the pressure up on the insurance as far as pursuing the guilty party and consider legal action against her. You should be able to transfer your cover to a replacement car, (with the usual "adjustments" and ammendment fees :( ) - and you should add these costs to any legal claim you make against the other party. In the meantime, phone around some taxi companies for school run quotes - don't know, but should be quite competitive as taxis arent that busy at those times and someone might do you a deal for a block booking. Its close to Christmas shutdown for school, if its not resolved by new year, maybe the little angels can all "catch flu" for a week or so ;) ...after all theres a lot about....

Check all the vacuum pipes, start at the turbo and work your way back. They can split, come apart and sometime collapse internally. The turbo boost is controlled via a vacuum operated actuator on the turbo. This vacuum is regulated by a solenoid valve mounted on the bulk head. If the ecu detects an underboost or overboost condition (measured by the boost pressure sensor) - it goes into limp home mode - all vacuum is dumped - to protect the engine. Switching engine off resets this mode. Its a very common problem and no doubt many turbos have been needlessly replaced for the sake of a bit of rubber pipe.

Symptom 3 sounds like turbo control system fault (over or under boost) which trips the ECU into limp home mode. Turning off the engine resets limp home mode. Many many threads about this......try a search.......usually vacuum pipe leak/split/blocked or sticky turbo vane actuator.

Dont know about ford engine but all the vw engines use reuseable O rings on things like thermostat housings...

You did click the link? Lots of information there....you can even do it all online

Small claims court

Dont jump to conclusions, gouges on wings and a scraped/dislodged bumper is not that serious!! Especially if you're not fussy..... Only if there is suspension/geometry damage - then you probably should walk away. Ask to speak to the engineer to explain the damage in detail to get a full picture. 1. REMEMBER ITS HER FAULT. Don't pay any excess. Stick to your guns. Make the insurance company work for their premium. 2. Be patient, insurance companies still write letters and it may drag on for 3 - 4 weeks. Keep chasing them (every 3-4 days) and as soon as it starts to look promising ask if you can have a hire at HER expense. 3. Never accept first offers from insurance - have a look around (now) and find the asking price (preferably at dealers and reputable garages) for an equivalent replacement. Same year/similar mileage if possible. THATS the market value. Your policy should aim to get you an equivalent replacement car. 4. Insurance companies like to play poker, but my experience is if they are making offers, then they like to close it off within a month. Call their bluff. 5. IF, in the end, they say its a write off, ask them to reconsider and say can they arrange a cheaper repair - there are lots of body shops. 6. Ask them how much to buy back - again don't jump but think carefully, do your homework and if you want to go ahead - make an offer for half what they ask. Unless you're prepared to get into panel spraying - in which case you need a garage to work in - I wouldnt get embroiled in this option...... 7. DONT BUY A CHEAP CAR ON EBAY!!!!! Post some pictures Maz and we'll do a Forum quote!! :unsure:

IIRC 1.5 dead dogs