seatkid

IIRC in 1999 the AHU 90bhp engine was replaced by the ANU 90bhp engine which I think is a PD variant.

Check the vacuum reservoir, its a tennis ball sized sphere at the front of the engine. Sometimes the pipe/bung becomes loose. Note this vacuum reservoir thing only applies to PD engines.

Check the start inhibit switch on the gear selector. Maybe a wire is hanging off. I think there are posts about this on the forum.

Try a search for injector loom. IIRC there were reports of intermittent connection problems with the unit injector loom. IIRC someone cured his by taking the connectors apart, cleaning them and reconnecting. I also think that Ford made available a redesigned loom to address this problem.

Disconnect the MAF sensor and see if it makes any difference.

Are you using the engine out of your old galaxy? :rolleyes:

I personally dont think its the turbo. You have a P plate so I expect its the 1Z 90 bhp engine. This is a simple fixed vane turbo, normally very reliable. After checking vacuum pipes in the turbo control system for leaks, cracks and being disconnected, check the air filter is not blocked then almost in all certainty it is the MAF sensor. See if you can swap it.

When this happened to mine, it was a faulty seat bottom heater pad. Replaced under warranty fortunately, although the seat cover was never as tight as it was originally.

I suspect that tyres are the problem here. You should have had both front tyres replaced, with original manufacters types. You'd be surprised at how a little difference between tyres on the front effects the car (it does on a Mk1 anyway), so its important they are matched. Of the measurements given, only toe-in is adjustable on most modern cars. The differences you highlight all look at the limit of measurement accuracy, i.e. nothing to worry about.

It integral with the drain plug - which is a dual affair. Bother to search the forum and you see plenty of explanations and pictures.

1. Did you use brake cleaner (solvent), to strip off the protective oil coat on the discs before you fitted them? If not, you' ll have to strip it down and clean them, and the pad surfaces which may now be contaminated, so you will have to rub the pad surfaces down with emery cloth and wash. 2. Did you undo the bleed valves before you pushed the pistons back? If not you might have pushed dirt into the ABS block or "flipped" the seals in the master cylinder. 3. When you bleed the brakes make sure you pump lots of brake fluid (at least 200ml each caliper) through to flush the system, air can get in a long way.

1. We are now past the point of no return. By the middle of next year we will be in a full blown Depression, even worse than the 1930's according to Ed Balls. Watch out for short politicians sporting little moustaches, offering a quick fix at the next general election...... :lol: 2. We are in a global cooling phase. The number of sunspots has dropped to an over 100 year low during the last year, indicating the sun has entered an inactive phase. It does this every 180 years or so - blame Jupiter, Neptune and Saturn and geomagnetic and gravitational effects thereof. So? Well, historically, every time this happens we experience a rapid onset of a mini ice age. Expect a Dalton minimum, and possibly a Maunder minimum within 4 - 5 years.If you thought this winter is cold, you aint seen nothing yet. :D 3. To cheer you up though, repairs to the Large Hadron Collider are taking longer than originally planned. So instant planetary annialation has been delayed until at least 2010. :D

They make their money by changing the discs at the same time as (free) pads are replaced.

Go back to the scene of the crime and look for it.

I replaced my original (Varta) battery at 5yr old and fitted the biggest bestest battery I could find which was an Exide Ultra at 95Ah 850CCA (4 yr warranty) - fills the entire battery tray - now 5 and a half yr old and still going strong, starts first touch.

Correct, Big Kev. I'm surprised they are not banned. I bet the insurance co. would love that mod! :lol:

I doubt it, but you could try this. With car in top gear (6th), jack up front of car one side, and see if you can turn the wheel by hand without the engine crank moving. The wheel should only turn a few mm at most. Any larger slop would indicate a problem I think. These are just my thoughts based on what I think a DMF is i.e a double sandwich flywheel with rubber bonding between the two bits. When they fail, the rubber breaks allowing excess movement between the two. As its only one or two blocks of several that fail initially, thats what leads to vibration. If you're going to fix your car yourself then you will have to remove the gearbox anyway. Then you can make a full inspection and decide. Odds on its a DMF fault as they are know common failures. AFAIK all Mk II diesels have dmfs.

12.2v is an almost flat battery, 12.6 - 12.8v is the normal range of a healthy reasonably charged battery (all values taken when battery rested for 5-10 mins) 90mA drain on a 90Ah battery is 1000hrs (at least 5 weeks). My drain is under 50mA. But still it shouldnt make a difference over 2 - 3 days 14.4v is the correct charging voltage. Are you sure they didnt sell you a duff (old stock) battery? Has been known (try search). Where did you get it from?

I've always found that Tesco / Direct line (same company i.e. UK insurance) the cheapest and pretty good at handling claims. Online quotes from Tesco /Direct Line are 10%+ cheaper than other means e.g. phone. Check Direct Line vs Tesco, sometimes one is cheaper than the other. Also.....check out current Tesco promotion they often do

Bad luck old man - you have my sympathy. Its not swift insurance by any chance? :rolleyes: It looks quite easy to fix but the market value of an N reg 2L is around

DMF - Dual Mass Flywheel. Common failure. Quite expensive. Certain dates of VW Seat Models had a recall with free replacement but AFAIK Ford have refused to acknowledge any problem. Try a search. GSF stock DMF's at a reasonable price IIRC.

bollocks....

I would hazard a guess and say the camshaft position sensor was not working - either its incorrectly fitted/adjusted or damaged or maybe disconnected. Another possibilty is the basic timing is out - the cambelt is not correctly fitted. You need to have a diagnostic scan, to check for sensor faults and have the timing checked. A main dealer has the equipment to do this - I think they usually charge