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Steve P

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    1999 Galaxy 2.3 Manual

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  1. Well cheerio folks - thanks for all the help over the many years we've had the old Gal - time to move on. Decided to make use of the scrappage scheme which combined with a decent discount mean't that we got a good deal on a new Kuga. If anybody is interested there will be a 1999 2.3 GLX galaxy with LPG conversion in Albert Looms scrapyard very soon - maybe even this weekend. We handed the car over to TCH Ford this evening who are only a mile or so from the scrapyard where the car will go so I suspect it will go there tomorrow. Everything works, all 7 seats are as new (we had covers on them the whole life of the car - why do people do that - crazy I know!!) - four nearly new tyres. Overall in pretty good condition - just getting a bit tired and I whilst I don't mind restoring classic minis repairing the gal was not fun anymore. Cheers Steve
  2. Great - that's exactly the sort of thing - where did you get it from. One question I have is to be sure that I am using the right timing mark on the crank sprocket. If No 2 is at TDC then I think the key will be at the top - and hence the mark that you are showing is a bit further round. As I say one of the problems I have is that the lower chain don't have any coloured links on it anymore - is there any other way of timing it? Cheers Steve
  3. Anybody got any technical info on how to set the balance shaft timing on the 2.3. I replaced the camshaft timing chain and the new chain came with coloured links on it so it was easy to set up. Unfortunately the supplier sent the wrong lower chain (which drives the oil pump and balance shafts from the lower crank sprocket) so I had to re-use the old chain. The coloured links had long since faded so the best that I could do was to count the links on a not very clear photo in the haynes manual and use that to set the number of links between the marks on the crank sprocket and balance shaft sprocket. However at high revs the engine does seem to buzz a bit so I think I must have got it wrong. Is there any better technical info available. I have a Ford TIS but this don't to given much help about taking the engine apart. Thanks Steve
  4. The screw that holds down the clamp which holds the two flexi pipes from the fuel rail is an absolute **************!. First time I did this there was no way that I could have undone and replaced it without an inspection mirror. The problem is that you jsut can't see the thing and you will struggle to get at it - but it can be done! Steve
  5. Never touched the throttle pos sensor - is yours different? On mine it is bolted onto the throttle body so there is no need to alter any setting. The throttle body has 4 screws attaching it to the inlet manifold - undo those and the body comes away with the tps attached. No gaskets required - there are 4 rubber rings which go between the inlet manifold and the head. These do eventually go hard and start to leak - it would be a good idea to replace them - they're about
  6. The old Gal Lives!! It's taken ages - seemed like major surgery at times - cost quite a bit too. Managed to get a second hand head -
  7. I've done it on a mark 1 2.3 a couple of times now - funny but it gets easier each time :lol: . You'll need some deep sockets - a small inspection mirror and lots of patience. First time I did there was was lots of cursing! Make sure that you remove the lifting bracket on the left hand side of the head - as you look at the fron of the car. Also you will have to reconnect the oil pressure switch from underneath so make sure that you take the undertary off before you disable the car!! Cheers Steve
  8. Well it's been a while what with holidays, work, vectra failing it's MOT (it's only a 2005!!). Anyway finally got the head off today and did not find the mess that I was expecting. the head has a tiny crack between one of the exhaust valves and the spark plug hole. This must be why the plug eventually came loose - causing the coil to fail then taking another cylinder out of operation. Couldn't see anything wrong with the head gasket - although with it being a three piece sandwich affair it could have failed in the middle layer I suppose. However all the pistons look the same and the head chambers are all the same except for number two which is a little blacker - not much. Can't see why I got the compression figures I did. The bores look very good for 100K - I wouldn't be disappointed if the car had only done 50K - there is no lip at all! My thoughts on this are:- Operator error - did I remember to open the throttle? The gauge is bust - I did notice on the the one good figure I managed to get that it gauge was leaking and would not hold the reading. - it was leaking slowly. Anyway I need to get a valve spring compressor - neither of the two I've got reach deep enough - oh dear!! Anybody else had a head crack like this? Is it likely to be repairable (never had a head repaired before). I could try and get a second hand head but chances are it'll cost almost as much as some people are selling engines for and there is no gaurantee it will be any better! Cheers Steve
  9. Drive shaft - normally worse when cornering but could be so far gone that it rattles around when straight as well. Is it related to engine or car speed - you said it stops at idle but that is not clear. Does it do it the car is moving but you are in neutral? Does it do it if rev the engine but car not moving? Strut mounts - they don't last forever - have they worn again - we only got about 5 years out of ours form so new so ours will need doing again soon (assuming I can fix / find an engine!!). Steve
  10. Ok thanks. Once I've got the head off I'll know what I'm looking at. If I go for a rebuild I might be in touch for some of those bits you've got. If there's any risk of bent conrods, crank or the cost of a rebore and regrind looks silly I'll be after another engine. I'll post an update in a few days - probably not till the weekend. Thanks
  11. 142,000 is not too bad. We've run LPG for almost 90,000 miles and saved a small fortune. I do wonder though if the piston or valves run a tad hotter and that's what causes problems. Where did you get your engine from - did you use the on-line scrappers or was it ebay. Thanks
  12. Have just looked at your other posts - LPG !!! Do we have a theme here. How many miles had your engine done?
  13. Thanks Davie - is yours that head that is on Ebay? What did you do - did you manage to get another engine?
  14. Thanks for the replies so far. It's not making any clattering noises and I did get a neighbour to crank it over whilst I peered down the plug holes with a torch - I thought all the pistons were going up and down? Have started to look round on Ebay for a cheap Gal ( - ha - that's a joke - they all seem to have intergalactic miles on them and even then they want silly money) or a replacement engine. I think my engine choice is limited to the plain 2.3 - anything else would be too much work. Even a 2.3 Zetec I'm guessing might have additional sensors, new ECU etc?? Ours has only got 105K miles on it so I have a real mental block with buying anything anywhere near that mileage - although I see many go way beyond this. Ah -well - I didn't have anything better to do than spend hours pulling the old gal apart :lol: Cheers Steve
  15. Looks like it might be curtains for the old gal - we've had it for years - I've mended just about everything on it but I fear the end is nigh!! :lol: Wife was driving down the dual carriage way when the gal started running a bit rough. Then she noticed lots of smoke out of the exhaust with stares from passing motorists! Pulls over and gets the recovery service out. When I get to look at her a very strange crime scene. Tried cranking it over. Spins over fast but not doing much - can't even hear it trying to do anything - no compression type noises Took the cover off the coils and one of them has failed big time - grey smoke everywhere. However deeper investigation reveals much worse - the plug under the coil has come adrift, the ht connection between the coil and plug is wrecked. Strangely the plug electrode looks a perfect colour - but the gap is completely closed. The plug thread in the head is wrecked. Not sure exactly what has happened so try to do a compression test:- No1 - zero - no compression! No2 - can't fit the gauge as this is the one with the failed plug and thread. No3 - about 180 No4 - fed up by this point so can't remember. Pistons go up and down and the cam visible through the oil filler cap goes round - so I know the cam chain hasn't failed! Clearly the head has got to come off to have a helicoil fitted in the No2 spark plug hole. I fear though it will be much worse when I delve deeper!! Anybody know how long to remove a head on the 2.3? I've had a look in the haynes and it is awful - the procedure jumps through three or four sections - so I thought I'd ask on here first. Thanks
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