seatkid

dreaming about dogs again?

As sepulchrave says. much more info is required. Info about the car engine, transmission, mileage, history (servicing and repairs) - Are you sure it hasnt been modded? Background info - did you buy a sick car or did the mechanic make it sick? What did he (supposedely) do or fix? If it was cambelt or water pump, then could simply be a timing problem. Was it a dealer or independant garage? Whats your driving style? more despcription of symptoms, i.e. starts first time? does it smoke? Is it rough or smooth? Strange noises, smells. Lack of power (e.g. struggling to maintain motorway speeds) could be turbo related, though that shouldnt hurt economy so drastically. Any other problems, e.g. cooling water loss Have you checked brakes for binding, particularly the back brakes - they have a tendency to stick on due to the parking brake design. Jack up the rear end with the brakes off (secure the car in gear and use blocks to stop car moving!!) and check you can move the wheels easily by hand. A simpler check I use is to drive around gently for a mile or two - try to use the brakes as little and gently as possible. Then (carefully) check the disc temperatures (if you can reach them though your wheels), a binding disc will be stinking hot - watch out you dont burn your fingers! The rears should be lukewarm/cool... You should get 40mpg easily on a long run, and over 30mpg around town.

Likewise. If people cant be bothered to find out and post accurate details about their car (i.e. Engine code) then why should they expect accurate advice?

look here

THEY MUST BE JOKING! CAT C WRITEOFF???? Someone could have that back on the road in next to no time, for the cost of an indicator and bit of body hammering or a replacement wing......but the bloody inspector too bloody idle to think for a second.....or maybe he's tipped his mate off to break it up for ebay.......

Don't worry Scorp......you will shortly be receiving a wodge of cash (delivered in a wheelbarrow) which you can spend as you wish! Our friends in the USA have shown us the way out of this "crisis" and not to be outdone, our government has thrown down the gauntlet to that scum we know as "savers" (also sometimes refered to as OAPs/mimsers/boring). New legislation that outlaws saving, with summary fines and imprisonment should tackle the problem. I understand the problem of old people who refuse to die is also being looked into. There is also talk of free diazapam for all people worried about whatever....... Heres to the future, the future is bright, the future is..........well thats for our kids to find out....... Listen to this guy - he'll put your mind at rest

On a Mk1 fob it uses 2 x CR2016 batteries.

Mk II diesels are specified cambelt changes at 40,000 miles/4 years.

Just bypass it until you have time/money to do the job. The two hoses go in from the top, near the windscreen wiper motor.

I believe there was a chap that figured out a way to run a car on sea water. He gave up on it though as he could only get a little under 5 mpg.

That you got what you actually paid for???? Next you will be congraulating British Gas for accurately calculating your [overpriced] gas bill!

I've just made something especially for mk2vr6..... Can you feel anything yet matey? :rolleyes:

Wouldnt be surprised if the starter was changed along with the alternator and the loose cables and broken wire are the hallmarks of a hamfisted DIY repairer. Wood Auto Supplies do all the bits for the starter motor (or this one). Note the solenoid at

That looks like an voltage regulator c/w brushes. I recomend you phone up Wood Autos and I'm sure some will advise you as what bits are the right ones. This Valeo alternator - you can even get slip rings!

Phone the hospital and ask about the availabilty of Patient Transport Services. It may be down to the particular hospital but I know my local hospital will provide transport for this kind of situation.

Valeo is a rebuilt/refurbished alternator. 5mm sounds worn out, the brush carrier sits several mm above the ring so the brushes are at the limit of travel and thats why output is intermittent. The new length is 16mm and at

I also think.... The brushes in the alternator need changing. Intermittent contact because one is almost at the end of its travel.

Some good news for a change :46:

Its been a long standing claim from VW that aftermarket filters often dont have non return valves.

What a way to spend to spend new years eve/day! :D You must have killed a cat or something to get such a penance. :46:

Just guessing - burnt valve seat or microcracking around valve seat. Try a cylinder compression test. Or perhaps an injector problem (presume its sequential injection) Whats it like on petrol? If its the same could be an small air leak on inlet manifold

Idle control valve sticky. Needs cleaning.

Digging around can lower prices significantly for instance, this might be of interest Try your local delphi motor factor also, I've always found them very competitive. My local VW dealer is also surprisingly good for parts.

How deep is your pocket? Phone around and get some quotes. OPTION 1: At a garage, it'll be cost of alternator + labour which could be

The brushes in the alternator are probably making intermittent contact because they are near the limit of travel or possibly just stuck in the carrier(s).