seatkid

This report wont please Sepulchrave! :rolleyes: More info Conclusion - avoid Chinese brands if you value your safety.

Check the unit injector wiring loom - you have to remove the rocker cover to gain access. Clean/refit the connectors to the unit injectors and try it. If you do a search you will see some people have fitted a new loom (about

Most likely fuel pump relay (aka Relay 30) K4. It may click, but a dry joint internally prevents 12 volts getting to your fuel pump. Known fault, unlike the ECU which is normally very reliable. The whistling may be do to arcing/high resistance in the relay

Brand new Galaxy ghia 2.0 tdci auto 140bhp in metallic

Trace the circuit from the ignition switch - you should have +12v on the red/black when the key is in start position (pos 3). Trace it through the fuse 26 then cryptotransponder relay k191 through to the starter motor. Most likely reason for intermittent starting is either ignition switch failure, k191 failure, or poor contact to the base of k191 - often the relay mating connections in the junction box become loose or fall off. The relays are in the central junction box under the drivers side dash. It is a multilevel affair and quite difficult to access the different levels. Use the photo guide posted earlier to help you. This info is for a 1999 Manual - Auto versions are different and have an inhibitor switch in there as well.

Try a compression test. One of the inlet valves may have debris on the seat.

Something preferable to Parky's offering

No time for tea...... :P

It does sound very fishy. The evidence is clear that a key must have been used. The insurance company may also have other evidence you are not privvy to - e.g. ECU evidence of recent running. I think its highly unlikely that someone would "lift" an 8 year old Galaxy and trash it elsewhere. Also I dont think there are "skeleton keys", the insurance company would know if the ignition key could be easily "picked". It does "look" very much like as if someone arranged for it to be taken by consent to be deliberately trashed. The wires pulled also indicate an amateur theif (with expert lock picking skills) as it is impossible to start the car without a PATS transponder. You have either been highly unfortunate or you know more than you are saying. Either way, I doubt the insurance company will pay up.

No the heater matrix and the evaporator are two seperate things. Heater matrix for heating - plumbed into the cars water cooling system, evaporator for cooling and plumbed into the aircon. They are however both mounted in the same housing located behind the dash. It sounds as if you have a ruptured heater matrix. (Have you been running without the correct level/type of antifreeze?). Big job to replace - at least one days labour (experienced garage). It is vital to use the correct level of antifreeze (30% - 50%) and is the correct type (any old antifreeze will not do). Otherwise, corrosion and big problems.

I expect so, they do now sell some Ford parts (discs etc). Give them a ring and ask.

Brake unwinding tool GSF part no 98741 now

Easy solution: turn the radio up good and loud. If it aint burning or losing oil, whats the worry? Once you think you hear a noise that sounds like it may be a problem, it generally gets louder and louder... This is just your brain fine-tuning the "panic centre". A bottle of your favourite spirit can (temporarilly) detune the "panic centre". A lot of strange noises on cars are often due to loose/badly fitting trim/panels/bits and bobs around the engine bay/ front end etc.

Yes, but under load, full throttle, say in 3rd gear on a deserted Motorway. Only do this if you are sure your engine can stand the stress e.g. it has had its services / cambelt change etc to schedule. And dont it with a cold engine. Don't break the speed limit, and have some consideration for the drivers following you - they won't appreciate what youre doing. Ideally,start off and accelerate hard (max throttle) through the gears, hitting 4000rpm until 3rd gear (you might want to limit your speed at that point!) - keep it there for 30secs or more, then slow down and repeat. The idea is to try and get maximum exhaust gases flowing. A quick glance in the rear view mirror will confirm how badly clogged the engine is.

I dont really know what units MOT opacity is measured in - I think its % per metre where % is the reduction in light transmission using a defined light source. MOT smoke tests - as I understand - should be carried out under controlled conditions, the most important of which is that the engine is at working temperature - the oil temperature should be checked to be above 80 deg C. My experience is this is rarely the case - the temperature is usually marked n/a. However, it is difficult if not impossible to reach 80deg C oil temp from cold just by idling a Tdi engine. The test consists of one or more (maximum of six), maximum engine speed runs for several seconds each, during which time a machine measures opacity. Black smoke in the MOT test can be caused by several things. Accumulation of soot in the exhaust system. (Italian tune ups usually shift this) Poor atomisation or spray pattern due to dirty or faulty injectors or low injection pressures. Injection timing problems. Overfuelling and/or inadequate air intake (remaps and tuning boxes)

1. Change engine oil for high quality fully synthetic fuel economy grade (5w30 or 0w30) meeting PD requirements of course. 2. Fit some decent tyres e.g. Continental Premiumcontacts instead of those Kamakazi brands. 3. Make sure the air pressures in the tyres are correct and at upper end of allowable range) and check you dont have any steering geometry defects 4. Start using Millers diesel power sport 4 additive, possibly at double dose for the first tank to clean up those injectors. 5. Check your rear brakes are not binding (do the discs get stinking hot?) - the handbrake actuator has a habit of sticking on. 6. Make sure the engine undertray is fitted! 7. Remove the battery lead for 2 minutes (after you remember to check you have the radio code first!) to reset all ecu parameters. 8. Clean the car and give it a good polish/wax - make it feel grateful...... 9. Give it an Italian tune up or two (with Millers in the tank!) 10. Drive slower and treat it like you would a young virgin and after a while you will enjoy 50mpg+ as a reward!

You need a proper unwinding tool (about

I'm sticking to Arachne thanks very much......

It was just a pun....obviously too subtle :P If Options is a discount scheme for Ford employees and family then..... Why did Jules claim he paid

The MAF sensor does not affect air/fuel ratio - that is the job of the lambda sensor. Your rough running at idle is 99% certainly due to the disconnected pipework.

So is it now

They wont lose money but I bet they would have paid a lot less than