seatkid

OK.....enough......2 days have passed Time to move this thread to the Pets/Ex-girlfriends/Things I miss/Things I don't miss section.... :( eee he's a hard nosed fecker that Seatkid is.....

Safer to stick to Millers - guaranteed not to damage components - it has high lubricity and the cetane boost will make the engine sound a lot sweeter at idle. Its about

I think injectors should last the lifetime of the vehicle. It depends on the quality of the fuel used, filtering and the nature of your driving. They do get gummed/sooted up however if you are a gentle driver leading to poor spray pattern and in extremes poor fuel metering and lack of atomisation (dribble). The fact that your EGR was blocked up, indicates the same is likely to be true of your injectors (and lots of carbon in the piston crown area and exhaust ports etc etc The other possiblity is your PD engine may not have had the correct oil at some point, and the camshaft is badly worn, leading to poor injection. But try the millers first, remember it'll take quite a while to shift the gunge so don't expect an instant improvement. IMPORTANT: Make sure your cambelt/tensioner is in good order (i.e. was changed within the last 40,000 miles) before you try the italian tuneups!! Also make sure the engine is warmed up before you start with the high revs.

Hold onto your hats! Things are about to get a lot hairier! Iceland?? How about Ireland, Switzerland or the UK? (other candidates also available). All sailing far too close to the edge......rumours abound about Ireland.....(you thought the Post Office was safe???) Lots of banking convenants being broken....which means a black hole may be opening.... Bad news looming about Northern Rock (re granite trust

God stepped in at the last minute and said "NO! YOU DON'T DO THAT!" and bang! - expensive breakdown..... Good news is that it'll take until at least next summer to get the bastard going again.

Sounds as if you have clogged up injectoritis. Bang in a double or even triple dose of Millers Diesel Power Sport 4 into the tank. Then take it for a session of Italian tune ups (full revs in 3rd gear). Watch out for the poor guy behind you who will be cursing you with the smoke and soot coming out and blinding him. You should repeat this a few times probably over 2 -3 days until the black smoke is much reduced.

TAX exiles should be stripped of citizenship. Hamilton represents Switzerland and not Britain. His obsession for money sums up everything that is wrong with sport today.

You dont have fibre coming into your home...... Thats just a totally misleading and fundamentally untrue statement Lets face it - both Virgin and BT are BAD and grossly overpriced. Virgin call costs are :rolleyes: see here 7p connection charge! 4p per minute local call rounded up to the next minute! Call an O2 mobile on Virgin, 22p minimum charge! (e.g. if it flips to voicemail)

Virgin cable and BT products are PHYSICALLY 2 completely seperate things that work in completely different ways. The wires even run in seperate ducts (i.e they have as much in common as your electricity cable and the gas main) You can have virgin cable and BT at the same time if you want. - Whats this rubbish about virgin not charging you to go back to BT???? Of course not, Virgin doesnt do unbundled local loop. They do do nasty small print though. Sorry v_leesy but youre just a virgin brainwashed guy. Virgin cable ex NTL /Telewest/Diamond was originally a television distribution system and much of the infrastructure (i.e. cabling) is as old as the hills. You can "upto" 200gb/sec internet for all I care, but Virgins DNS servers cant even look up a website address 50% of the time. Its not line speed that counts at those speed but real network thoughput, FUPs etc .....I know firsthand. Gregers doesnt have access to Virgin cable anyway - he has to choose an ADSL product. Dont make pitches for Virgin based on grossly untrue information.......

Go on holiday? Move country? Buy a new car? Wear a heavy overcoat? Drugs? Take it to a dealer?.....no...wait...thats a stupid suggestion..... :rolleyes:

LPG car explodes after driver lights a cigarette at 30mph hmm....

Just to reiterate, if you "unbundle" and leave BT, then later your only option is usually to rejoin BT at

There is some misinformation here.... Virgin is cable but it also has an ADSL service for people outside the cable network. All ADSL services are carried by BT lines from the exchange to the phone. These lines can be "unbundled" (sold to other ISPs). What happens in the exchange depends on the exchange location, some lines are routed via the BT network (but often though the ISP's equipment) others are routed on the ISP's or partners networks......its all rather vague and complicated. Many things to consider...... What (unbundled) ISPs are available in your area (ISPs that uses "BT access" will always be available - assuming you are in a BT area) ISP network performance - not to be confused with line speed or exchange level performance Packages on offer (Price/Speed/monthly limits) Whether hitting a monthly limit costs you or you lose service or get severly restricted for a period. Minimum Contract Length (often 12 month - 24 months) Set up cost Get out costs if not satisfied Whether you can move it with you when you move Distance from exchange/ line quality and so real line speed Some ISPs restrict or completely block certain types of traffic and access to certain websites/domains What the true capacity/contention ratio is at your exchange. If there are loads of users in your area using the same ISP, the service may be crap. Beware, if you "leave" the BT network, i.e. get unbundled line e.g. Talktalk, Sky etc then if you want to change to another ISP or go back to BT, its likely to cost you dearly, reconnection is same as a new BT line

You have either lost the pats chip (if original fob) or if its a new fob, then you need to install the correct pats chip (from an original key) or if it was supplied with a pats chip, the PATS chip must be programmed by a dealer. AFAIK you cannot program the PATs chip - it requires special equipment. Don't confuse this with remote key programming which is only for the remote locking function and has nothing to do with the PATS The PATS chip is the beast that talks to the immobiliser. Passive Anti Theft System

No resistor packs on climate control. Fan speed is controlled electronically (PWM). Its normal for fan speeds to be low when engine temperatures are low or when cabin temperatures are near equilibrium. Poorly designed software. Pump the speed setting button(s) to maximum and the fan speeds should ramp to maximum. Sometimes the software gets confused (esp in ECON mode), and requires engine to be turned off on to reset. Sometimes low air flow is due to a blocked pollen filter.

Doh! :lol:

Have they disconnected the MAF sensor (e.g. while changing the air filter) and forgot to reconnect it? Also check for vacuum pipes not pulled off anywhere - that'll stop the turbo from working.

If you have manual a/c (i.e. rotary controls) then check the bowden cable attached to the rotary control - this often becomes detached leading to loss of heat control. If you search hard enough there is even a detailed guide how to remove the rotary contol panel. Rear wiper works on a timed single wipe repeat - is this what you mean by jerks,stop/start??? :lol:

Oops! :lol: Yeah, you would have thought someone would have noticed at the MOT....but they will just say that it isnt part of their remit.... :wacko: Advise everyone to check the spare wheel winch at least every two years. Give it a good soaking with WD40 or similar and most importantly, don't overtighten it! A little attention every now and then will save a lot of grief later. Check the spare wheel and tyre out at the same time.

No. The 96 model is a Mk1 The 01 model is a Mk2 Only Johnny Cash was able to fit headlights from different models (one on the left and two on the right - but when he pulled out the switch all three of them turned on.... :wacko: )

Please dont post the same reply or question in multiple threads. See my reply in the other thread.

Please dont post the same reply or question in multiple threads. See my reply in the other thread.

Typical Ford dealer BS. Its sounds as if you have a bad camber problem. See here for an explanation.

VAG cars (of which the MK1/2 galaxy is one) have a reputation to be camber sensitive. In the UK they drift to the left and on the continent they drift to the right. My Alhambra drifts to the left to the extent that I need to hold the steering wheel to keep it straight. After investigating a lot, its my conclusion that the drift is mostly due to slightly incorrect camber settings on one side in the front suspension. On the continent, my car drives straight so maybe the factory manufacturing setup is tweaked to LHD settings by default. Anyway, there is nothing you can do to change the camber settings, it is "built" in. You would have to strip the front suspension down and shim it correctly when rebuilding. I've tried playing with different tyre pressures l/r but it makes little difference. On my first alhambra the rear tyres also feathered on the inside very badly, incorrect toe in, again nothing can be done to the rear geometry - its welded for life. Of course if the toe-in at the rear was wrong on one side only, it would also make the car drift right/left. A damaged tyre or asymetrically worn tyre can have a very noticeable effect on the steering when on the front. I recommend Continental PremiumContact btw