seatkid

Given the combinabitions and permutations of broken and shorted wires that invariably afflict the 6 flexing gaitors (one each door and two in tailgate) anything is possible. Check all doors, there will be damage everywhere.

There will probably be a short in the loom. The insulation often crumblss away with the flexing. Just pull back the rubber gaitor and examine/fix the wires.

Pressure switch suggests low gas, usually stops the compressor from cutting in to prevent damage. Sunlight sensor is only used to trim the outlet temperature when sunny.

First check the wiring in the door gaitor for breaks and damage. Tech FAQ section has details about this

Vibration could be a collapsing wheel bearing, or CV joints /driveshaft, but if the tyre is visibly leaning in and steering goes light from time to time first check the wheel bolts are tight then check the suspension around that wheel, all ball joints and bushes, control arms, strut bearing, the lot.

Wow! Still someone around! Fantastic! No I'm not having any problems, just prepping for the job. I dont have a breaker bar and dont want to risk knackering my torque wrench etc. I changed my sons Octavias disks/pads last moth and that has a bit of carrier front overhang, but the disks slipped out without problem. I cant believe that manufacturers design these things such you have to do a major strip, especially with such ridiculously tight bolts. As I dont have a decent jack either (I use the car jack and a large angle bracket as a safety), I might just take my parts to the local indie and pay him to change. But I'm slightly worried he'll bend my sills like just about every garage has managed to do. And also will he just push the fluid back? Or I'll spend £15 for a sealey breaker bar (750mm) and a decent single hex socket (I'm worried that my bihex socket isnt up to the job). Plus a decent jack? Decisions decisions. Crickey, the car has only done 145k miles in 17 years and I'm already having to change the front discs/pads?? Maybe I'll submit a warranty claim :40: DIscs down to 21.5 mm and pads down to 2mm, the lip on the discs is just touching the pad backplate. Perhaps I should just file the lip down to use the last 2mm? :43: Will a 750mm breaker bar be ok? I think I read the carrier bolts are tightened to 190Nm (mk1)

OK guys, Has anyone tried to remove a disk (Mk1) without removing the carrier? Bearing in mind once the disc is free off the hub, you can twist it about a lot?

Oh, I forgot to add, check your air filter is not bunged up as this causes the same symptom, due to restricted air flow.

Sticky turbo vanes and/or actuator.

Only petrol versions have vacuum pump, the tdi is ecu controlled. Usual failure of cc on tdi is either brake switch or the stalk switch. The brake switch failure usually causes the glowplug light to flash or the brake lights stop working. First port of call for electric windows problems is the wiring in the rubber gaiters between the doors and body, pull them back and you will probably see broken,exposed and or shorted wires. Note that you need to do all 4 doors and check fuses arent blown because of shorts. See here for a guide. http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?/topic/7886-faqs-common-questions-and-solutions/

Lack of top end power is a classic symptom of a faulty MAF sensor (mass air flow). Its fitted between the airbox and the concertina pipe. Easy to change.

Things I'm inclined to check out (both sides front and rear) Check brake flexis and ABS wiring are correctly routed and secured - note the grommets used to clip, can slide along the wire. check wheel liners are properly located and secured and not damaged, check for signs of tyre contact. check the undertray is correctly fitted and secured, check clearance of drive shafts. The securing bolts for this item can easily be overtightened and strip the threads leaving you with a loose undertray. are they wrong size tyres or aftermarket alloys? If so check them for dimensional compatability. check the engine roll restrictor bar isnt loose. check the engine mounts. check the anti roll mounting bar bushes/mounts on the bulkhead. check the abs rings are not loose, although this would normally throw up an abs fault now and then check the exhaust mounts and possibilty of exhaust touching something solid under movement. check the rear spare tyre is wound up securely check the centre brake cable at the rear hasnt lost its return spring. while youre under the car look for loose items in general.

Yes, has the key been opened as Nacyl says the transponder chip falls out quite easily. If you have a spare key try that.

Yes I can confirm your car 130bhp diesel has an alternator fitted with a one way clutch. The reason it has one? PD equipped vw diesels have injectors that have exteremly short injection times at idle. Therefore the combustion process at idle speeds is short and very sharp. They also have light flywheels so that they can idle acceptably at low speeds. This means at idle speeds, the rotational speed of the crank is not constant but pulses up and down with each injector pulse. To protect the transmission from this high vibration level, they fit a DMF (dual mass flywheel) which uses springs and a secondary mass to smooth the output. The alternator is at the other end of the crank, which also has a ragged spped profile at idle. Because the alternator rotor is high inertial mass, they put a one way clutch on the pulley to protect the belt drive which would otherwise tug back and forth meaning short life and jumping and squealing. Your one way pulley is seized (its easy to check but you have to remove the belt to check it), and its a very common failure. You can get replacement clutched pulleys (~£50 + labour IIRC), but they require special tools and some grunt to get it off the alternator shaft. Its quicker and easier to fit a new alternator but then again thats a fair bit more cash.

Looks like your catalytic converter is goosed. Note (even if the engine is running poor/rich) the cat is there to convert CO to CO2.

There are 2 looms going into the tailgate one either side....

I'd say it was safer to tow a Galaxy and trailer with a horse.....

http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=bWc_EaRnPhH9Zz4RLz1WKFwmZzc_Pqx/JdA_EVw4viFtZzxujUU6HW1ReAltRz6YYDTuyz5TpHltpWrlZCtzCw9qlwhEHxZFeB_JWbaLghf2NlNj_BzYcQBOnghnZl8b_wMzZZ_3yqdmaIu3eFJ5QybD9jg0bcrhza/Q/vZRtE4wBcR0r17bhv6O7wmsII0O7uZJNT7iNxhLg7Vh

Kwikfit is not always a reliable outfit to check a/c, told me mine didnt have/hold pressure, but was actually perfectly ok, after regassing elsewhere (I use F1 autocentres nowadays) Even without any gas, turning a/c to auto should start the radiator fan at low speed. Check the connector to the pressure switch? (No I dont know where it is on yours, maybe near the horns) Possibly a relay or fuse on lower level. Just a random thought, check the battery positive connection, it has a number of other small wires connected there and these sometimes break off. If I can find my (2004) TIS CD I might investigate and post later, but need precise details of year/engine, does your car have one or two radiator fans? If two are they belt connected or independent electrical units?

On my Mk1 AHU (90bhp '98) engine, there are two temperature sensors, the one in the picture above is the sensor used to control the coolant fans. Remove the engine cover and the engine coolant temperature sensor is located by following that coolant hose back to the cylinder head and at the head end is a 3 or 4 way plastic piece, and the sensor is clipped into that. Its a dual thermistor device, one circuit drives the temperature dial, and the other is the sensor the ecu uses for glow plugs, engine management. Its item 10 on the following rather complex diagram, http://www.auto-parts.spb.ru/cat/au/au.mycat?SelPg&t=HVkqJddZKiWOWSolXwNCHCwYcwNOADcOAi0qJTKGqhUdWSha/XsuKR1vbD0deSqsEArjGZBt/k0dm3uMvgp5TwP4iv_PlD/4X8meg2BKxZAlToFnT6g8vK/wwqldPQAmBn1eBFbxsO75QeEMM73wmd/eSMvSd4a0o42P0pEcRa9PY8jwaHs9giW4FGq6fUFgkj_VLpwuDnaYUCv3rK5q

Dont drive the car without the correct coolant concentration or rapid corrosion will occur, the lump of poo you flushed looks as if someone has mixed coolant types. Look at the header tank, it should have the coolant type printed on it - either G12 (which is a green coolant) or G13 (red/pink coolant). Mixing G12 with other types leads to a gunky mess forming (as per your picture) which blocks the cooling sysem and is very difficult to remove (you could need new raditor/heater matrixes). In any case, proper flushing of the entire system will be required (remember also there is lots of coolant in the front and rear heater circuits), and fill with a 30% to 50% concentration of genuine G13++ (The ++ bit is ver important - this version is compatible with other coolant types). Check the water pump. These are very common failures - the plastic impeller becomes detatched from the shaft and so pumping more or less stops. Classic symptoms are heater not or intermittently working and overheating under load. There is one thermostat only, iirc if you remove it you can reach in with your finger and see if the impeller spins when you push on the impeller, if it does its gone. Unfortunately on the PD 115, the water pump is driven off the timing belt, so to change the pump you might as well change the timing belt as well, it may be due to be changed anyway, they do need changing every 4 years/40,000 miles - the design is weak and its not worth risking not changing on time. Good luck!

Don't forget that 2.0L and 2.3L petrol Ford Galaxies have Ford engines and gearboxes. VW petrol (2.0L) and SEAT(1.8L/2.0L) petrol variants have VW engines and gearboxes. All V6 2.8L variants by by VW. All diesels are by VW with Mk1 manual gearboxes by Ford and Mk2 manual gearboxes by VW, and autogearboxes by Jatco which although Japanese is borderline rated in this application hence the short life particularly if its had caravan pulling duty.

£1m? I think you could get a pretty good example... for under a £1000, I think most examples will be riddled with at least one major or several minor problems. THe Shalaxy is such a "useful to have for all sorts of reasons car" that old examples are only disposed of when the owners are facing major expenditure. As with any car under £1000, requires careful examination by someone with knowledge. Draw a list of faults - theres bound to be a few - and work out the total cost to fix. Is it worth it? the only source of a car that cheap that stands a chance of being ok is a private sale (beware traders working out of home) Avoid autos like the plague - they invariably have a limited life and cant really be fixed without changing the entire box - expensive. 1.9tdi manual models are the best of the bunch. 90bhp (ahu or 1Z engines pre 2000) more reliable than the 110bhp afn or later PD engines which have the sticky vane turbo. You may get lucky but honestly for under £1000 your unlikely to get anything that doesnt need several hundred pounds of repairs and will probably be well over ten years old.

Possibly sticky turbo vane mechaniam/actuator - quite common fault - needs cleaning. Search forum for forum for more information and remedies.

Likely sticky turbo vane mechaniam/actuator - common fault - needs cleaning. Search forum for forum for more information and remedies.