insider

Check here - http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.ph...mp;#entry112432

GALAXY VERSIONS Quick illustration of the differences between Mks I, II and III

I thought it was the same thing (on Mk II anyway). Is yours a facelifted version or one of the last Mk Is? Perhaps the procedure is different for them?

You should be able to programme up to 4 remote keys for the same car using this procedure: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=13773

I don't think any nuts or bolts should be free to move. The caliper should be securely bolted to the anchor plate. The only movement should be from the piston within the caliper when the brakes are applied / released.

I assume you've checked the bulbs? (unusual for them both to have failed though) Do you have a manual or auto gearbox and is it a petrol or diesel engine? You should check the reversing light switch. As for the alarm, does it have ultrasonic sensors inside the car? If so, is something in the car able to move to set them off? Have any windows been left open so that the wind could move something inside?

The new keys are different - not sure how easy it is to get them cut. However, you can programme them yourself: http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=13773

Try these (English!) instructions for removing the steering column switches. I cannot confirm their accuracy but would strongly advise heeding the numerous warnings. If you don't feel confident I would suggest booking it into a garage. WARNINGS: . To avoid accidental deployment the air bag control module backup power supply must be depleted. Wait at least one minute after disconnecting the battery ground cable(s) before commencing any repair or adjustment to the supplemental restraint system (SRS), or any component(s) adjacent to the SRS sensors. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. . Always wear safety glasses when working on an air bag equipped vehicle and when handling an air bag module. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. . To minimize the possibility of premature deployment, do not use radio key code savers when working on the supplemental restraint system. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. . To minimize the possibility of injury in the event of premature deployment, always carry a live air bag module with the bag and trim cover pointed away from the body. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. . To minimize the possibility of premature deployment, live air bag modules must only be placed on work benches which have been ground bonded and with the trim cover facing up. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. . Never probe the electrical connectors of air bag modules or any other supplemental restraint system component. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. A. REMOVE THE DRIVER AIRBAG MODULE 1. Disconnect the battery ground cable(s). NOTE: Turn the steering wheel to access the air bag module retaining clips. 2. Detach the driver air bag module from the steering wheel. Using a suitable screwdriver release the air bag module retaining clips. 3. Remove the driver air bag module. Disconnect the air bag module electrical connector. B. REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL NOTE: Make sure the road wheels are in the straight ahead position. 1. Centralize the steering and lock it in position. 2. Using the special tool, remove the steering wheel retaining bolt. 3. Remove the steering wheel. C. REMOVE THE AIR BAG SLIDING CONTACT 1. Detach the steering column upper shroud from the lower shroud. 2. Remove the steering column upper shroud. 3. Remove the steering column lower shroud. 4. Detach the air bag sliding contact from the multifunction switches. Release the air bag sliding contact retaining tangs. 5. Vehicles with stability assist - Disconnect the steering wheel rotation sensor electrical connector. 6. Remove the air bag sliding contact. Disconnect the air bag module and horn electrical connector. D. REMOVE THE MULTI-FUNCTION SWITCH 1. Disconnect the turn signal electrical connector. 2. Disconnect the automatic speed control electrical connector. 3. Disconnect the windshield wiper electrical connector. 4. Disconnect the windshield washer electrical connector. 5. Remove the steering column multifunction switch. Installation is the reverse of removal except for C (AIR BAG SLIDING CONTACT): 1. Connect the air bag module and horn electrical connector. 2. Vehicles with stability assist - Connect the steering wheel rotation sensor electrical connector. 3. Install the air bag sliding contact. Make sure the retaining tangs lock into position on the multifunction switches. WARNING: Incorrect centralization may result in premature component failure. If in doubt when centralizing the air bag sliding contact, repeat the centralizing procedure. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury. NOTE: Air bag sliding contacts on vehicles without stability assist have a spring loaded plunger which locks the air bag sliding contact in the centralized position when the steering wheel is removed. If there is any doubt about the centralization of the component, depress the spring loaded plunger and carry out the centralizing procedure that follows. NOTE: Air bag sliding contacts on vehicles with stability assist have a raised arrow on the outer cover which will align with the steering wheel rotation sensor indicator when the air bag sliding contact is correctly centralized. 4. Centralize the air bag sliding contact. 5. Turn the air bag sliding contact in a counterclockwise direction until a resistance is felt. 6. Turn the air bag sliding contact in a clockwise direction until a resistance is felt, approximately four and one-half turns. 7. Turn the air bag sliding contact in a counterclockwise direction until the raised arrow aligns with the steering wheel rotation sensor indicator or the spring loaded plunger locks the air bag sliding contact (approximately two and one-quarter turns). 8. Install the steering column lower shroud. 9. Attach the steering column upper shroud to the steering column. 10. Install the steering column upper shroud. CAUTION: If there is any break between centralizing the air bag sliding contact and installing the steering wheel, or the vehicle is left unattended by the technician, the centralizing procedure MUST be repeated. 11. Install the steering wheel. 12. Vehicles with stability assist - Configure the electronic stability program. WARNING: The electronic stability program must be re-configured. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.

To clear up the confusion, there is no fault with your locks, etc. If you deadlock the car with the remote key you cannot unlock it from inside with the door handles, button on the armrest, etc. This is what deadlocking is! The only way to un-deadlock your car is with the keys / remote control.

Just checked the wiring diagrams and it appears that not much has changed from the old TDIs described in the retrofit instructions, even the colour-coding for the wires is the same! What I've found out so far is this: The black wire is the 12v supply. With a suitable toggle switch this would need to be connected to the black/white wire which ultimately goes to pin 14 on connector C52b into the ECU. This would be the C/C on/off switch. The red wire is the "SET / +" control. A push-to-make switch would need to be connected from the black wire to the red wire which goes to pin 44 of the ECU. A brief press should enable C/C and set the desired speed. Pressing and holding the switch should increase speed whilst C/C is enabled. The blue/grey wire is the "RES / -" control. Again, a push-to-make switch would need to be connected from the black wire to the blue/grey wire which goes to pin 45 of the ECU. A brief press should enable C/C again at the previously set speed. Pressing and holding this switch should decrease speed whilst C/C is enabled. The only difference is an additional grey wire which goes to pin 46 of the ECU. I believe this is some kind of "CANCEL" control which is only used on vehicles with the multi-function steering wheel (the stalk controls for C/C do not have a CANCEL feature). I think that the grey wire should be fed from the ON/OFF switch, i.e. black/white and grey wires should be linked together. Of course, all this is theoretical at the moment. Next steps are: 1) Check whether the C/C connector (diagram below) is already present in cars without C/C, i.e. mine (assuming that VW use the same wiring loom for all vehicles regardless of features). This should be located beneath the cowling on the steering column. If it is present it would make life a whole lot easier as it means the wiring to the ECU is already in place making initial testing possible. The blue wiring diagram I have added shows how I believe the switches should be connected. 2) Determine whether C/C functionality is enabled within the ECU. In the retrofit instructions it mentions the VAG 1551 tool which I assume was the predecessor to VAG-COM? Is anyone with VAG-COM able to check what is required to enable C/C in the ECU? As I stated previously I've heard that, in certain ECUs, it's not possible to enable C/C but perhaps this could be confirmed? If all this works then the most elegant solution would be to buy the relevant stalk with the cruise controls and fit this to the steering column. Wouldn't it be nice if it was that easy, but knowing Ford/VW it won't be! I'll let you know how I get on. Perhaps someone else might want to try this too in the meantime?

If there was then it would make it simple for a potential thief to do it too! The reason for deadlocking is that none of the doors can be opened from inside. This is to prevent thieves simply smashing windows and unlocking / opening the doors from inside.

Yes, same thing on newer models - press button once to deadlock/enable alarm, twice to lock without deadlocks/alarm enabled.

I had a similar experience and thought it might have something to do with the dual mass flywheel (http://www.fordgalaxy.org.uk/ford/index.php?showtopic=10708&st=0&p=85960entry85960). The car itself continued to accelerate but I could see the engine revs going up and down "like waves" as you describe even though the accelerator was in the same position. I thought it might be the dual mass flywheel oscillating?

... or if you're lucky and don't have a 2.3 then it's in the engine bay and much easier to get at than taking the top facia panel off.

Depending on which side the lap belt was fed from, you could have moved the centre seat somewhere else, e.g. if the belt was fed from the right and plugged into the left, then the centre seat could have occupied a position on the RH side. In this case, you'd have the option of using either the lap belt or 3-point belt (I'd choose the latter ;) ) but why you would want to do it if you have a perfectly good RH seat anyway is another question!

All seats will fit in any position in the car as the fixings and floor mountings are all the same. Therefore, what cjb suggests would be possible but the centre seat could only be used as a child seat. The reason for labels on the seats stating where they should go is the position of the seat belt socket. For example, if a LH seat is put on the RHS, the seat belt socket would also be on the RHS and you couldn't put the seat belt on properly. Also, on later models, only a centre seat can go in the centre. This is because it has seat belt sockets on both sides to accomodate the 3-point belt. So, in summary, the centre seat could safely occupy any position but LH and RH seats must remain on the LH and RH sides to retain safe seatbelt use.

Perhaps a second opinion from another "mr cool"?

The 3-point belt on the later models is mounted in the headlining, whereas I assume the lap-belt on the older models is integrated into the centre seat. If so, simply moving one of the other seats into the middle wouldn't work because there would be no seatbelt at all!

I saw this DIY article a while ago but never got round to trying it (another reason being I don't have VAG-COM). http://www.christiantena.pwp.blueyonder.co...ag/tdi/ccs.html Obviously the wiring would be considerably different on the Galaxy, Sharan etc. and dependent on whether you have a Mk I or II. Also, the function has to be enabled within the ECU using VAG-COM. However, I have seen comments on other sites that it depends on which ECU you have as to whether or not it is possible. I'll try to make sense of the wiring diagrams and suggest how external switches could be connected to try it out. Perhaps someone with VAG-COM would like to give it a go? As a DIY exercise, dash-mounted switches could be used. The more elegant solution then would be to buy the relevant stalk with the cruise controls on it but fitting that would involve removing the airbag which is probably not recommended for DIYers.

It's true for the TDIs and V6 engines but unfortunately not for the Ford 2.3 engine you have.

Try this: 1. Close all the vehicle doors. 2. NOTE:Make sure the door lock cylinder is held in the unlock position for more than 0.5 seconds. Insert the key into the driver door lock cylinder and turn the key from the rest position to the unlock position three times within five seconds. 3. The door lock light emitting diodes (LED)s will illuminate for 15 seconds during the remote transmitter programming mode, allowing the remote transmitter to be programmed. 4. Remove the key from the driver door lock cylinder and aim the remote transmitter at the interior rear view mirror. 5. Press and hold the LOCK button on the remote transmitter. 6. While holding the LOCK button down, press the UNLOCK button three times on the remote transmitter. 7. Release both buttons simultaneously. 8. Make sure the door lock LEDs flash five times, confirming that the remote transmitter has been programmed. 9. After a remote transmitter has been successfully programmed, the GEM will reset the programming mode, allowing a further 15 seconds to program the next remote transmitter. 10. To program additional remote transmitters, repeat steps 4 to 8. 11. Make sure that all the doors lock and unlock, confirming that the GEM is no longer in programming mode. 12. Test all the programmed remote transmitters, by activating and deactivating the locking and unlocking functions.

The original post seems to suggest that the problem was there before the sender unit was changed so it's unlikely this caused it. However, it doesn't rule out some form of contamination in the fuel system.

Yes, just one CR2016 battery. If it's the first time you've had to change it since 2001 then I'd say it's lasted pretty well!

Just got the high score and here's the evidence to prove it: ;)

Yes, that's the one!