Dave-G

Hi Simon - welcome to the forum. The brake pad wear indicators are placed well into the friction material - which means they will be in play with about a third of the meat left on them. This means they will probably last to the next 10K service. If your up for a bit of a fiddle you could remove the electrical connector and short out the two wires to see if this puts the light out. I'm not advising YOU should do the following but I peel back some of the insulaion of each wire, twist them around each other, then solder them together to disable this feature. That depends if you are a capable DIY'r or leave these things for service times etc. ABS light could be a cracked "ribbed band" around each wheel hub. There is a detector adjacent to it that senses if that wheel rotates very close to it - and it is on all four wheels. See if all of them are intact.

Absolutely not in my opinion. The correct consistency of oil is a well known major player in the performance and durability of the PD engine. I don't know the ins and outs but it's something to do with it beeing the correct viscosity to operate the tappets/injectors. Let me be clear about this - you risk a very poorly engine if you fail to use oil specified for the PD. :ph34r:

This don't sound like a spline problem to me. More like a bent shaft, incorrectly positioned tri-thingy joint, or a bent wheel/damaged tyre. Any updates please Genepaul?

I'd rather take all saturday morning going round Paris Hilton :P

So it now has 3 zits?

Ar - thanks wolfie, I knew about the vent but the phrase "burping technique" is new to me. I must use it somewhere to be all modern sounding - innit ;)

I'd keep using the same dealer if I was getting that sort of mpg chum, VW might want to correct it. Now what excactly is the burping technique please?

I had that occur while overtaking a lorry being tailgated by a car. When something appeared round a corner in the distance I floored it but the car slowed down! I had to allow the lorry to pass my inside and the tailgater wern't very co-operative till I almost rammed him on to the grass verge at the side of the road. My life passed before me amongst all the angry horn blaring. Even though I had put my hazards on I can't say I blame them for thinking I was acting like an indecisive prat. When I took it to the main dealers (SEAT) they plugged her in and found the throttle pedal sender was out of phase or somat with the throttle receiver. This was the first I knew of "drive by wire" A new throttle sender was the fix.

Here ya go: click here

OK, so what pump is in a '51 tdi 115ps? I bet its the Lucas isnt it, as they sound cheaper and shoddier! Anyone?? Not got a pump if you look. It has a common fuel supply to the injectors at about 1050 bar pressure. They are commanded to fire by electric pulses from the ECU via a wiring loom in the cylinder head. expect severe consequences from interfering with the fuel viscosity, spray pattern and burn rate etc - not to mention it cocking up your auxilliary heater. Those who have a mind - research the engine by Googling "pumpe Duce" (sp) engine

So - did you check the alternator pully or ignore it the advice and let the dealer roll you over?

Read this first though: undefined

I doubt the CV joint ran totally dry during the 500 miles so it's unlikely to be a "dryness" problem. The fault is more likely to be incorrect location of the drive shaft - perhaps the "c" clip was not replaced properly.

Search for Auxiliary heater and all will be revealed

Ah yes - that jump start thing... Dont scroll down to look at the photo if you can't take a scary look at what could that jump starting thing causes :) I was told by the guys who did my autobox repair that it was caused by failure of a slow change regulator which has become quite well known in the jatco boxes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . "piston" in auto box

Assuming its a std ford unit you have. Thats the same problem I had with an earlier gal, cost me

I know it's hard to follow techie advice from a female and lord knows MO4 has had a steep learning curve :) but... You should not remove the engine under cover. It has been well documented on this forum. I ran without one for a while (before I found this forum) and frequently got into deep sheet when driving through puddles, water gets splashed onto the power steering pulley and temporarily allows the belt to slip. Surprisingly water get splashed forwards and sideways too. A power steering enabled car is much harder to steer without that power assistance than a car without it, particularly when its predictability has suddenly gone. It will scare the hell out of a powerfull man at the very least, lets hope it happens on a straight road rather than a bend where puddles frequently occur. It could be a good way to get rid of the wife though if she drives :) What fluid did you get? I'm told the jatco gearbox is very specific about the fluid you use and its lubricity - see this thread: what fluid? I don't want to dampen your fireworks but I also understand that the box is running very close to its upper limits pulling the weight of the Galaxy. It is for that reason the engine availability is limited to 115 bhp for the automatics. Enough of us seem to find the limits without towing something - costing some 1.5K ish. I know nothing about caravan weights but think you have a hard time ahead if you propose to tow it on a regular basis.

We have two heaters in the rear of diesel galaxies. The one inside the car, behind the middle row nearside seat mostly recirculates air within the car, and I think, draws a small amount in from the ouitside via the box section beneath the car - hence someone finding soot on the carpet in the area of that heater when they got a hole in their exhaust. The Auxilliary heater is an oil fired heater beneath the car (below the nearside middle passenger seat) which heats the engine coolant at ambient temperatures below 10 degrees C - Theres more to it but hopefully you get the idea?

You dont generally get the receipts for servicing if its previous owner used it in a business - they are used to gain the tax advantages. Climate control could simply be a "slip of the tongue" type thing to impress peeps of your knowledge - or lack of it in this case. Early X-REG was 60K intervals, Discussed previouly with you - so dont fall out with them if thats what they come back with. Better to establish the build/sale date and find out precisely what month the changeover occurred - sorry I dont know. Tiptronic is best left alone unless you need to stay in gears longer than usual or are towing at a speed which keeps changing between gears. However just move the gearstick to the right and push forward once to change up one gear - or back to change down one gear, then again as needed. I suspect that using tiptronic for better engine breaking at high speeds knacks the seals - My fist autobox probs occured after experimenting with this

That sounds like the Zetec trim which fits everything? A seriously overweight person I know had his seat welded after it busted

IIRC you need an additional battery and other gubbins under the front passenger seat. ISTR Ivor E tower having that set up? Not sure about that though

Yip - carry on driving it, but also try to turn the alternator cooling fan inside the alternator vents with a small nail file or something, when the engine is off. it should turn freely towards the front of the car - but not rearwards. A search for "alternator pully" should bring up the info which a member called LittleDaz gave us.

My car is "INK" colour - this seems a more luminescent "metalicky" shade than state blue metalic - which I have previously had. The colours are very close and difficult to discern by photo - best check with the dealer before buying the paint. An ink colour Galaxy

If he puts a warranty on it, yes. There's very little that can't be fixed on a Galaxy - as long as someone will pay for it. Also note warranty companies like to see it has had a service to ford schedules within the last year - so get them to oblige and sign the dotted line after a lengthy test drive so you feel the car when cold and warm, with a decent bit of scope to try it uphill, not forgetting to try reverse gear. With the bump in mind check the panels line up, the tyres arn't scrubbing and it drives in a straight line. It will be nice to feel the A/C and parking distance sensors work but hey at that price it probably doesn't don't - hence the warranty warning. No warranty - no sale. You may have to pay