Dave-G

Yes: Not only is it a heavier car, it carries more people/bodies than most cars - and has a higher centre of gravity so it has greater tendancy to try and roll over on tight corners or sharp manouvres.

Forget my input here James - sorry I was thinking of a mk2. I just realised the 2007 is a mk3 which I have no experience of.

I don't know if that PLASTIC MOULDING? is listed separately. The mirror can be pulled out of it's snap-in holders using two domestic eating forks: Insert the tines behind each end of the glass and lever the glass towards you while holdimg the glass against the forks with your thumbs. Once you can see into the moulding all will become clear regarding its removal assuming you have a degree of screwdriver awareness. I cant recall if the screws you are going to remove are pozi or torx so have a set ready.

Best not let my youngest know that. She likes helis, and i have a blade in the house that is waiting for her to move up to, she can hover very well about 2 inch off the floor with her wee heli, but up and down nope.. she cannae do that too well yet, it will rebound off the ceiling and hit the deck. I have an indoor twister heli, an ace thing to fly. Only prob is that you need to keep the Tx in line of sight with the heli or you lose the signal. I much prefer my FW planes though specially my raven which i throw around in the air. My Gremlin needs some tweaking as it does about 4 rolls in a second which is pretty darn fast!! Do you belong to a club Baz? Dave do you fly at all? Not any more, I used to have a very small business making "G-BLADES" and some other after market items for heli's but it didn't work out so I packed it in.

If you are with her next time she moans about it, slap her ass and point out it's better than the childs scream as it falls out of the door.

Wot - no one flyin rc hecilopters?

Spam

Dodgy lightswitch is my first suspect. Few will have noticed that if you turn on the lights very very slowly in a place you can see a reflection of the parking lights, the instrument/dash lights come on first, then the parking lights then headlights. I have no idea which set the number plate comes on with though. Have a fiddle with the switch and check it goes full travel when turning the lights off.

How are you comparing it - it has been warmer climes recently :lol:

MAF and timing are the two suspects here - Vagcom/code reader time really mate.

My hand held code reader will only read and clear codes from: Engine Auto gearbox Air bags ABS

It may or may not help: I had a tiny leak when under pressure from the water pipe coming from the bottom of the expansion tank, where it had chafed on a sharp edge of the fuel filter bracket. Worth having a feel of it next time your exploring things.

The Pd engine has a known issue with the injector wiring loom, located inside the rocker cover, having poor connections. I had the issue a few years ago, it also occurred at higher RPM's if I raised the engine revs a tad. It costs nothing to remove the cover (whilst swearing at one of the hard to reach bolts on the right hand rear of the engine until you discover you had a small 1/4" universal joint type socket set knuckle hidden under all the other tools, hint get one before you start the job) and check/tighten each connection.

More mineral oil in the fuel equals a bigger bang in the cylinders of the PD diesel engine. I read somewhere that the Govmnt have decreed all diesel shall have some bio in it by whenever - (I know not when) Supermarket diesel apparently has more bio than shell diesel. Whilst some diesel engines handle veg/bio well the PD allegedly does not. I now mainly use shell when I can but avoid supermarket fuels at all times.

You'd be amazed how many people pop in for answers to their problem and just dissapear without thanks or posting the result of members efforts to help them. They just dissapear leaving members wondering why they bothered. I'm surprised you got any reply at all with that post mister - let me guess - your name is Sanjay right? Edit: The forum is all about sharing information - so it's all done out in the open for all to see and benefit from. If you want personal advice and information try a Ford Dealership.

Do yourself a favour and follow the above good advice before you sell. Chances are it is the the larger wires in the black bellows between the drivers door and the pillar. Most of us know you can only bend metal so many times before it cracks and these cars are more widely known for the problem than some other common cars - which might indicate that poor quality wire was used. Just repair the crack in the wire(s) and... Poof - most of your problems will be gone just like magic. :) I'm surprised this occurs on that door as the drivers door is the one that gets most use - perhaps some work has been done on the door and the loom hasn't been plugged back in correctly. Check the wiring both bellows before you do anything else.

Turbo overboost would result in a 17965 DTC.

Yours is an early mk2. The V5 should specify the bhp (eg 115) but perhaps you could describe the colour of each part of the badge - or put a photo of the TDI badge up on here?

They are Ghia wheels for your vintage of the Galaxy - early mark two model, yes they will fit.

http://ssl.delti.com/cgi-bin/rshop.pl?dsco=110&Cookie=tyrepriceadvisor&F_F=1&details=Ordern&typ=R-185142&ranzahl=4&nichtweiter=1 I fitted a pair of these to steel wheels on the front. It's my first time with winter tyres and I have to say the are a true eye-opener. I shall put the alloys back come march or whenever it warms to consistently above 7 degrees C again as that seems to be the temperature that summer tyres will regain their usefullness - and winter tyres will start wearing out quicker... allegedly.

I think that this sounds good Dave-G only I couldn't see anything when I took the plastic trim from the middle bottom of the dash. All was dry and no sign of any pipe. The pipe that has been suggested behind the engine I have found and put a tyre compresser on it but no water came out. Do you think that this pipe is a little high to be a drain I would assosiate a drain pipe being lower down. All usual culprits have been checked for blockages but as said I have been getting water during a 2 week period with no rain. I know that all areas need to be checked but i am convinced this problem is to do with the aircon. There was suggested that a badly fitted pollen filter can block the pipe does the pollen filter come into contact with this pipe. Thanks in advance for all the probabilities keep them coming I will get to the bottom of this and solve so many other questions assosiated with water in the drivers footwell. ISTR having distillate drip on my clutch foot when rested on the footrest sort of area a few years ago might even be in an old post of mine: So I refer to the lower central dash rather than the centre console area. I can see where you got that idea from - I am mildly dyslexic, sorry. As Chris says though, there would be precious little distillate at this time of year, possibly unless you keep the A/C on recirc and it's drying out your carpets from where snow has melted from your shoes perhaps - a very big perhaps. :( Other posters make good points regarding the source of the leak - and bear in mind that we have actually had rain - but in the form of snow, and don't forget freezing fog and frost is also water settling then dripping somewhere.

Good point mate.

I'd look at where the drain pipe connects to the (condenser?) behind the lower central dash, it's probably become detached.

Also be advised - there is no low oil level warning light or beeper on the newer Galaxies. :lol:

Chris has indicated the two most common faults regarding the heater. First check the 'after run pump' as this can be diagnosed without cost or a code reader. If your Gal has done over 75/80K it's likely to be the carbon brushes are worn down too far in the 'run on pump'. The pump is located on the engine bulkead in a bracket that secures the pump with two large rubber rings as sound deadeners, you can see it - or feel it running behind the top of the fuel filter. If you park up somewhere real quiet you should hear it humming behind the dash for about ninety seconds when you switch off your engine. The brushes CAN be changed but are a biatch to do if you rush it because you need the car again soon, are a tightwad like me, a competent tinkerer, or skint - or the pump can be replaced in minutes for about a ton and you know its going to work ok for another 70/80K. I seriously botched my carbon brush replacement and am looking for someone who would let me have their old one for postage costs to replace my tempory fix.