mikej

Just ordered one myself so hoping for some tips mr sparky paul when it arrives ;)

Lol inspection mirror it is then ! ;)

Cheers Steve i think you've answered all the questions mate, i was going to remove the throttle body before removal of the manifold but had heard somewhere that the throttle position sensor had to be reset so that got me thinking ! the gaskets i was refering to were the rubber ones you talk about so i'll order these before i start. Have to admit it looks like an absolute pig of a job due to the poor access from the front unless you have rubber bloody arms and kids hands, still i will give it a go! thanks again mike...

Hi again, the sensor i have been looking at is situated next to the actual temp gauge sender in the coolant system as i thought this was the one the ECU looked at ?, i have disconnected the maf and the car runs like a bag of nails, only one coil on mine it's the later 16v engine and this has been changed for a known good one. The issue i have occurs only on cold start and lasts for approx 1 minute or so after which the car runs like a dream however some mornings it's fine and others it's a bloody pain, feels like i filled it with kangaroo juice. What i have noticed like already mentioned is the RPM on choke, it is working but sometimes it's a steady 1250 and other times it's around 1100 and steady. Once off choke it idles spot on @ 750. It's driving me nuts to be honest and i am looking into purchasing an OBD2 interface to use with some scantool software in the hope it may shed some light on it but thought i may try and simulate the sensors first, where is the intake sensor then?

Hi Mirez i have actually been thinking if this sensor does come into play on startup ? however the one i am refering to isn't this. I think there are two temp sensors for the engine, 1 for the actual temp gauge display and another used by the ECU on startup to determine the amount of fuel to supply the problem i am experiencing is so bloody random i cannot pin point it, one morning it's fine then the other its as rough as a dog even though the outside temp is roughly the same and my revs although constantly rock steady are not the same on choke give or take a few hundred. I am proberly barking up the wrong tree here and did think vaccum leak but the fact i can't find one and its there one day and gone the next makes me believe it's poss electrical ? :lol:

2001 MK2 2.3 , Hi all i am looking to replace the ecu cold start temp sensor with a resister for testing purposes i am still experiencing issues with rough running from cold for approx a minute or so and would like to try it with a resister first, would anyone know what resistance this sensor is when engine cold so i can purchase one or even offer an alternative method apart from the buy a new one method ? thanks.

Cheers for reply Steve, did you have to reset the throttle position sensor after at all and how much did you take off before removing the actual manifold, new gaskets required etc ? thanks mike.. :lol:

If we are talking Bosch alternators here then i take it you mean the dreaded INA pulley which i believe you can get from GSF if i'm not mistaken. If this is indead the issue then i can assure you they do seperate ( Spent the last 18yrs working at the Bosch alternator plant here in Cardiff ) although you may need a spline tool.

What does it sound like this noise ?

I know what Big kev is talking about my washer fluid smell like next doors cat has peed in it( Halfords own never again), it absolutely stinks like hell the only problem being i've got almost a gallon to go :ph34r: i think i will have to go down the Milton fluid road myself.

Hi all, has anyone ever removed the inlet manifold in situ, if so is it a difficult job and more importantly will this require the throttle position sensor or anything else resetting ? any advice welcome mike... ;)

QUOTE : when logging in this evening,i got automatically got the message box come up. This is what i had tonight when logging in also !

As above, shut the doors put key in drivers door and turn towards the rear of car to lock, do this again straight after and the indicators will flash and your alarm is disarmed. Have to do this every day with the dog in the car. A word of warning though many years ago on another car i had a similar problem with alarm sounding in middle of night after walking down three flights of stairs three times in as many nights i decided to pull the bloody wire off the horn, on the morning of the fourth day i was passing my car in the morning to get a paper when i could hear a clicking noise from my car on further investigation i noticed some little sh1t had knicked my stereo :o Well even i laughed, sorry just thought i would share that! ;)

Ok is it my p.c or has this forum been down for days, been unable to access it from here ;) also i seem to have a free arcade pass in my forum e.mails from a deleted member (which i ain't opened yet) , any ideas mods ? mike.

On my dash clocks i have a little red area in the centre that tells me all sorts of info regarding distance travelled, average speed and average MPG etc, can anyone shed some light on how the average mpg is calculated or how realistic this figure shown is? it does vary with speed and has always averaged around 36 mpg on petrol and on a run but lately due to an infestation of speed cameras on the M4 i have been stuck at 50MPH for some distance and using the cruise i have seen this figure jump to 40 MPG ;) which i though a little hard to swollow.

Quote i use a generic ELM327 based cable and the ScanTool software... works with most non-VAG vehicles from 2001 onwards. Pre-2001 vehicles may not be fully OBDII compliant, and some functions may not be available. Sparky Paul what exactly can you do with these tools/software ie what can you monitor,reset, etc. I have a 2001 2.3 and have been thinking of purchasing my own but don't really know if it's worth it or not? ;) SORRY to butt in on your post Paolone.

Ebay is your best bet, average around

QUOTE : I'll keep my mouth shut in future, just trying to help. :D Please don't think i was trying to be funny as i really wasn't, maybe there is a specific tool about and i ain't seen it ! :D

What, special tool :D i have a mk2 2.3 and never used any special tools in four years, and yes changed the plugs every 10k miles (NGK's BKR 6EVX) have found it helps to take the plug cover off first :D seriously though a plug socket, extension and ratchet if these come under special tools :D couldn't be easier. Why don't you splash out and buy it an air filter as well then you may get a bit more mpg, the most i had on petrol was 36 but i use LPG now most of the time however 33's not bad considering it hasn't been serviced in a while.

If you really want to know it's 1mm :D

HA HA :lol: i have the same tyres on now and they are driving me insane cheap but never again, same symptoms as you, i too thought the diff but when i changed the front back to Dunlops all was quiet on front anyway it's still there on the rear as i have a few miles left in them yet. I have just changed the rears on my Focus C class, Nexian i think they were?, same bloody noise. Looking for some mid range tyres now for the gal without the noise lol.........Fingers crossed it,s just your tyres mate. :lol:

Bloody hell your lucky, you should return to the garage that fitted the tyre and tell them although i wouldn't expect anything of it but it may save some other sole from loosing a wheel. Anyhow at least your up and running now ! :rolleyes:

Did i hear you say Galaxy alloys, if they are up for grabs any info on them ?

Take it out and refurb/clean it up like most of us on here. Done mine over two years ago now and still going strong and at the time it had seized completely. It's not that difficult if you willing to give it a go and most of the info or advice you need can be found on this site like already mentioned. Got to be worth a try and it's cheaper ! :rolleyes: When you strip it use plenty of quality grease prior to rebuild.

Just a thought it's not the roll restrictor thats shot is it, this is the large engine stabiliser mount on the rear of the engine? you can check this by putting the car into gear while the handbrake is on and while someone watches the engine for excessive movement back and forth you use to clutch to rock the engine. May even be visible from below the vehicle when doing this although very difficult to diagnose without seeing it for yourself !