mikej

Thanks for your replys chaps, firstly no the engine tray isn't fitted at the moment but the fault was there when it was so not to sure this is the issue to be honest, Mirez is there a particular way to press these buttons, i have tried as you said ignition on, press and hold recirc and Econ for more than the said time but the panel simply continues to flash for approx 10 secs showing all the segments/symbols etc and then reverts to normal display so either no codes or i am doing something wrong. And i am sure i have said this before but how do you know all this stuff lol??? :)

Ok i,ve had this car approx five and a half years now, the aircon has worked one minute and not the next and i am still no closer to finding out why. As mentioned i have noticed that usually after it rains the bloody thing will stop (usually) but this thing has a mind of it's own. I have noticed a few times the aircon panel flashing on startup etc, twice this week but i thought this mean't lack of gas yet the amount of gas is correct and no leaks detected ? Most days it doesn't flash at all, i have replaced the recievr/drier and the compressor in the past but it made no difference even though the drier was leaking in the usualll place. When it fails the compressor just won't engage or the clutch won't kick in, yet today i sat in the car park waiting for the other half and tried it and guess what, i managed to engage and disengage the thing approx 50 times at the press of the button and the aircon was nice and cold? Has anyone come across a duff control panel in the past or experienced any symptoms like this? :)

If you have a laptop have a look on Ebay for the elm 327 usb code reader, this is the one i currently use on my 2.3 ford lump it should give the reason for the light and allows you to reset it once issue is sorted. Think i paid about

Don't suppose anyone has the electrical schematic for the aircon system on a 2.3 petrol 2001 by any chance ? i have intermittant aircon again which seems to have something to do with water ingress or to put it another way everytime it rains it stops lol... :)

I think i may need to do this myself as mine is getting a little sloppy, thought it may be the cables or the bolt on it's way. Don't suppose you can change the actual selector mech can you (if it's not too much of a job) as i have a spare box sitting here, anychance you can point me in the right direction for the bolt or is it that obvious? :) Ford part number for thr bolt would be good also if you still have it ?

Sounds like the idle control valve needs cleaning out with some carb cleaner, it just fills up with gunk and causes needle to stick, cleaned mine last year rather than buying a new one and it's still ok now. Your revs even at 1000rpm appear to be a little high mine sit at 750 once choke is off? Just a thought, it's only two bolts if i remember and not difficult plus it don't cost anything to have a look :lol: Best of luck

Ford engine mate , Vagcom will be no good, try an elm code reader from fleebay and keep your Vagcom for your brakes or when your airbag light comes one which it will in time lol...

Been there more times than i care to remember, forget after market, Ebay etc and buy the real things from Frauds, it's going to sting the pocket a bit but after changing them approx 3 times on my 2.3 mk2 i gave up, sick of jacking the bloody car up and down lol. I eventually bought from Frauds and they have been fine for over a year with no issues at all. I know there are some on here who may not have had an issue but in my case i also tried 3 different types before finally buying from the dealer, i think they were in the region of

:) Your a gent cheers

Hi all need to do a compression test on the old bus, does anyone know which fuse is the fuel pump please as i need to remove it, 2001 2.3 petrol mk2 cheers all :) mike....;

Never actually seen a pad warning light as such but it maybe an idea to check your brake fluid level in the master cylinder just in case they use the same warning light?

Just a suggestion really, i had an issue before were the car would run fine without issue nice and smooth on the level but when i went up or down a hill or when braking hard on a slip road when leaving motorway etc it would cough and splutter loseing all power, it would also cut out on the odd occasion but once i drove on the level again it would settle start running fine, turned out to be a choked cat. Another sympton was when reving it to say 3k in neutral the needle would stutter a little on it's return to tickover. Don't know if this is anything to do with yours and don't want to send you the wrong way etc but maybe worth maybe giving the cat a wack with your hand to see if it's broken up inside. Mine was petrol by the way not diesel.

It's not your cat blocked is it as you said it occurs going up hill etc?

2001 2.3 petrol ghia . Well the old girl needs some money spent on her (the car not the missus) :D I'm looking at new front suspension struts with top mounts,bearings etc, 2 brake calipers,clutch is on it's last legs and a possible cat as i'm convinced it's blocked :( so i'm thinking after 5+years of trouble free motoring, 3+ of them on Lpg is it worth spending on the old girl or shall i move on and buy maybe a later model ? Lpg is helping with ever increasing fuel costs but if i replaced her i would buy diesel anyway. Just cannot decide which way to go so i think i'll start with a compression test on the old girl first and see if there is anything more serious i need to consider, any tips on doing this, should it be done on a warm engine and does anyone have an idea of the figures i should hope for, it's been alot of years since i've done one on a car so if memory serves me right wip all the plugs out and just do each cylinder one at a time cranking the engine over and noting pressures, should be all about the same ?

As above i have the same issue and i know mine is due to a small water leak from engine bay coolant pipes :lol:

The 2.3 is spring tensioned so no adjustment really, the sympton you describe drove me nuts for months, you can change the aux belt if you wish and it may go for a very very short while but the problem is most definately your tensioner pulley sounds like a bloody bird chirping. There are two pulleys whithin the belt path, one idler pulley which is fixed in situ and one pulley fitted to the tensioner, it's this one thats the most common issue. You will have to buy the tensioner from Fords (comes fitted with pulley) and there not cheap @ approx £130 and the idler can be bought seperate (make sure you buy the new steel one though) Do a search, it's been covered on here many times :rolleyes: Try having a look from the top of your belt by the alternator down the side of the engine and see if your pulleys appear to sitting true or inline with the belt .

Depends if you have the petrol or diesel version, Vagcom has it's uses although limited (abs airbag etc) on a petrol model, try Elm. You could pick up both for under

120 amp on my 2.3 petrol ghia so would have thought if not the same maybe higher on the diesel model :unsure:

Once you slide the button press the end of the same stork when you have reached the required speed,understand there is a minimum speed you will have to reach before it will engage (and i can't bloody remember lol maybe 30mph)If yours doesn't work then don't worry it's very common and has been covered manty times on here already try searching for it ! :) mike

Have you tried another key, can you here the fuel pump kick in when you turn key in ignition ?

QUOTE: They quoted me 2 hours to change them @ £80 +VAT. <_< Bloody hell 2 hours, has this guy only got one hand then, have you checked them at all to see if there is any movment in them ? and does this price include the parts ? As already mentioned make sure you get your tracking checked after

What are you currently getting to the gallon then, or for a tenners worth of fuel. It could simply be that the price of fuel has gone through the roof so it appears thirsty ? :)

Not something simple like a track rod end maybe, had to change two on mine recently sounds and feels similar to the drop links although tends to clunck when taking up drive, slowing and changing up and down box etc as well as bumps in road <_<

If i recall correctly a genuine set (pair) from Frauds cost me approx

Sounds as suggested drains blocked ? Many of us have had issues like this for one reason or another and as i was informed after my rear wipe pipe detatched under passenger side carpet news papers are your friend for drying it out quickly, honestly you would be amazed on just how effective it is. Lift the carpet and place whole papers under soundproofing and between this and carpet, cheap and works :unsure: best of luck