mikej

I think SOME older gals had 15" were as most newer 2000 on have 16"'s, without seeing the alloys in question cannot really say what size they are :rolleyes:

Quote : Another question I have ...... Does anyone know what this round cannister type object under the passenger side wing is ? Mine had a dislodged rubber pipe coming from it? I noticed it when I was putting on the front panel. Cruise control pump, common problem is pipe perishes/splits and comes off. Try cutting it back or replacing it, refit it and you may even have your cruise control working, that is if it's u/s right now ? Yet another pain in the ass issue with the Galaxy :rolleyes: oops Chris thought the emissisions cannister was under the drivers wing, never seen it so prob wrong, well it's one of the two lol :unsure:

Never used the silver/calcium battery just a standard 72amp jobby from vauxhaul as it was cheap through the trade, had it on the car for over 4 years inc when the fuse box melted and after. Just replaced recently prior to the mini ice age just to be on the safe side. I have owned the galaxy for approx 5 yrs plus and never had any issues as yet with the batteries so i think you may be barking up the wrong tree on this one. In my own opinion the over heating is likely due to high resistance in the box due to poor contact but i have been wrong many times :lol:

If you have sludge in the engine also then just add it to the expansion tank providing you remove a little water first as to not overfill the system, run the car untill as you said the system is hot and then drain. Don't be tempted to refill the system too soon again with cold as you may do some damage. If it's just the rad that's contaminated then i would flush just the rad myself. I suppose you could fill the rad with boiling water if you have a big enough kettle :huh: and do it that way ;)

The replies i believe are refering to the rad only not inc engine. This based on my own experience would be alot easier and more effective if you could remove the rad first , if you want to leave the rad in place then remove both top and bottom hoses, plug the bottom with something and fill from the top with flush . As already mentioned you can leave over night and then give it a bloody good flush untill it runs clear inc reverse fush for a good while, ie stick you hose pipe in the bottom to push all the crap from the top as well. :huh:

Glad it's sorted, from the sound of it mind the service you recieved sounds nothing like i have ever experienced from a Ford dealer either. :ph34r:

:ph34r: Mirez blimey how do you know all this stuff then, this means that yet again i am going to have to look into this bloody aircon issue, if you said no nothing to do with it then it would have stayed as is but you can't help hoping that one day all will working :16: Any suggestions on testing it out of circuit then, i've never even seen the sensor but no doubt i shall be under car again, according to Chris a black plastic block behind the lower grill, is this the grill in the bumper then do you know ? Cheers both Mike...

Hi Chris, i only reset it tonight to be honest so havn't checked the operation since, will try it tomorrow now. With regards the temp reading on dash if anything it appears to be reading high which doesn't make sense, on one occasion last week it was below freezing here and yet the temp was showing almost 12 degrees :16: Even during the recent mini ice age which lasted two weeks i only noticed it go below freezing once, just wandering if there may be a connection between this and my intermittant aircon :ph34r:

Hi all i,ve just bought myself a vag comm lead to reset my airbag light and while playing with the software noticed a fault relating to the outside temp sensor possibly open circuit, to be honest i have been wandering for some time now about it's accuracy. Does this sensor have anything to do with the aircon system at all as i have had issues like most of you with this crappy setup, system will fire up then won't and so on. Plenty of gas in system,no leaks and a working compressor etc, it's had a mind of it's own for the five plus years i have owned this bus. Anyhow my understanding is that the system won't kick in untill a particular outside temp is reached, i am not looking to use it at -3 etc but it would be useful for the demisting in this damp weather. Location, what temp before system will work and how to check it would be good :16: Any help or thoughts on this one please :ph34r: ? mike...

I wasn't trying to have a pop at you in any way i am just a little suprised at times when people put the car into a Main dealer without possibly looking at other options or in most cases people are not aware of just how cheap you can do it yourself if they are willing to have a go, i mean surely thats the whole reason for forums. I have been unlucky enough to have changed loads of window units over the years inc the drivers one on the galaxy and i have managed to source a second hand unit from a breakers or Fleabay not because i have to but because i choose to. I fully understand you comments about time etc and the security of a job carried out by the dealer although i feel a cambelt is a little different and maybe worth the extra for peace of mind if nothing else. A few years back a friend of mine asked a local vaux dealer for a price to fix his electric drivers window, similar issue to yours, they quoted him something in the region of

QUOTE : Not really a bad price from a main agent and the parts prices seem reasonable Blimey i must be living on the bread line, if you have any mechanical ability at all you could fix this for under

Do you have an idea on how much your looking for, ball park figure ?

A duff bulb or faulty switch bringing on the engine management light, well thats a new one on me i,ve never had that and this bus eats bulbs . My light comes on regular due to engine issues, emissions etc (lpg) but never a bulb? You live and learn. You may want to invest in a code reader, cheap enough to buy i've used mine approx a doz times now to reset light . Are you sure it's your management light and not your bulb test??

Very common on these old buses, it's more than likely your alternator was fine before you replaced it and the RAC misdiagnosed it so i wouldn't bother taking off the new.The biggest issue is that some people don't replace the cable after the box melted YOU MUST DO THIS or it will happen again and melt the new one also get your fuse box from VW as it's cheaper or it certainly was for me and it's a vdub part anyway. A local auto sparks should be able to make you a new cable cheaper, i paid a local firm that refurb starters and alternators a tenner for mine and it's been fine since. After you fit the new fuse box make doulble sure all the small nuts are tight. best of luck mate mike

2001 petrol 2.3, Any body replaced a cat due to running issues, had this car over 5yrs now but over the past few months it's lost it's go and appears to be flat as hell , revs fine but doesn't seem to shift up the gears like it use to, it will still happily plod along at speed but is taking time to reach it. Anyhow i have noticed if i rev it in neutral it revs nice and crisp but as the revs drop it appears to misfire on it's way back to tickover also once or twice it has felt like it was running on 2 cylinders and almost cut out but only for a few seconds , once on a steep hill clime and once on a hill descent. Had an issue last week after driving 250 miles on the motorway at approx 85, left on a downward slip road and hard breaking the car starting missing like hell again and almost cut out? I have smacked the cat with my hand and cannot hear anything loose in there, disconnected the maf and it certainly doesn't like that so if anyone can advise on how best to check it without disconnecting it as it's rusted solid or any other experiences of the same sort please share it ta. The car is serviced to the hilt & has all new ignition parts etc so i know it's nothing like that thanks again mike....

passenger footwell as usual, if you have wet carpet already use whole news papers placed under it to dry it out, change daily and you'll be suprised how well this works . :)

Sounds alot like the maf sensor, next time this happens try unplugging it and see if it makes a difference to the running although as said you may want to invest in vag com

Good news mate, at least you found the issue, a pain in the arse job to do but still cheaper than a new box at the end of the day if that's any comfort :lol:

Please don't quote me on this but isn't there an issue with a selector mechanism bolt shearing off on these, i am sure i have read something along these lines ? :blink:

Well at least it's sorted, although that issue is something i haven't come across before. I would have thought mind you would need your rear washer more than ever now winter is here especially as the galaxy has a habit of attracting dirt to the rear screen :( still it's going now !

I take it you people have the large undertray in place as not refitting it is NOT recommended, i almost totalled my Gal and myself some years ago because of not refitting it, basically when raining or wet the water can splash over the lower pulley causing tempory loss of PAS, basically it causing the belt lose grip on the pully and no matter how hard you try you will go in the direction your pointing trust me going over a roundabout and not around it isn't funny. :) pretty sure it's been mentioned a good few times on here though. Oops sorry just noticed you have the later model Gal so not sure if this is the case on this model

As mentioned on here many times, the wireing on these cars is pretty poor and prone to damage on the drivers door and tailgate. Pull the boot at the top right and inspect the wires in there for any damage, there are several in there and they actually perish and snap. There arn't any plugs to look at as such just damaged wires, mine had 3 on inspection and these caused all sorts of issues with wiper not working or boot not opening etc, just replace the damaged sections with new wire and your good to go. :) Quote : is there a technique to getting the other end of the rubber cover off or just brute force? No and yes, it should pop back in after the jobs done honest :D

Sounds like the tailgate wiring to me , that's exactly what mine started doing before it totally gave up on me, pull the rubber boot back at the top of the tailgate and have a look at the condition of the wires, i feel you may be suprised on just how bad they get! :)

What about your leads ?

It sounds like you have the earlier engine which i think came with two coils ? Can you not simply swap the coils around and see if the problem moves to another cylinder, this would answer your question wouldn't it, i am sure these earlier coil problems were common but i could be mistaken ? :)