mikej

Cheers for that, i think maybe it is a different one fitted to the petrol though as it doesn't the same.. mike...

Thanks for your reply, it looks like i need to have a look tomorrow , is it normal for this to hiss after the engine is switched off as i have never heard it before? it's not causing any issues at the moment just a strange new noise lol :rolleyes:

If you can, raise both front wheels off the ground at the same time and have someone sit in the car and turn the wheel to full lock, engine off mind, when on full lock have someone grab the tyre at 6 O'ClocK and try and rock back and forth, then do the same at quater past 3 if there is any movement you should see/feel it in the joint.

Can anyone tell me where the metal vac pipe goes to on the 2.3 petrol engine, one end is fitted to a rubber elbow on the inlet manifold, it then travels around the righthand side of the head before dissapearing towards the block behind the exhaust manifold, i have a hissing sound coming from that area when switching off the engine and wondered if it was vaccume related ? thanks again.. :rolleyes:

Hi would anyone on here have a diagram they could put up showing the position of the bolt holes for the mk2 Petrol undertray or even better does anyone know the quantity/sizes of these bolts, replacment tray arriving soon so want to get bolts before hand ?? thanks mike......

In my opinion this sounds very much like a trackrod end, i had an issue with mine not so long ago, you could really feel it in the steering and hear it when braking...

QUOTE : Actually the 2.3l is lighter (1669kg) as opposed to the 1.9tdi (1724kg), i regulary chug up and down the M8/M74/M6 fully laden very merrily at well above the speed limit (sometimes) Since i live in Scotland, i can quite confidently say that we have the best hills in the UK! We wait and see if the OP returns to shed some light. ??????????????????? I was refereing to Gizmo John ;)

145 BHP is nothing for a car this heavy it's all about power to weight . I was actually joking with regards the 0-60 mind ! As for towing it's torque not bhp and of course the turbo on the diesel helps somewhat , i can only assume your van is either lighter, smaller or the hills are not as long and steep. Although mine is gassed it makes little or no difference if i run on petrol when towing. Years gone by i had a sierra ghia with the same twincam engine 145bhp, overall performance was ok and it was easy to drive in most conditions but not fast by any means....

It's reporting a fault, whenever mine has flashed on startup normally for a few seconds it's been due to low pressure or no gas in my aircon system, this will stop the aircon compressor engaging. Normally stops once your system is regassed and sorted although there could be another reason that i have yet to come across :rolleyes:

Hi , i have the same model /year galaxy . My understanding is that the pump is there to keep the water circulating once the engine is turned off to possibly prevent hot spots in the head, mine runs as soon as i turned the key and again for a short while after i turn it off, it didn't work for over a year due to the brushes being worn out ( very common ) this caused no issues at all for me or at least none that i know of, i eventually repaired it using some Bosch power drill brushes of similar dimension which cost me approx

Quote: easy BUY A DIESEL You must be joking no thanks i need reliability, i'm thinking of going back to the old Volvo,s again, a nice V70 T5 with a lpg conversion with a little remap that's 300+ horses and good mpg when on the LPG. Love the galaxy but need more power for towing, maybe a 2.8 24v Gal with gas conversion would do it, don't know if these are tunable ? :rolleyes: Quote : But gregers, the car pumps out nearly 145bhp so it shouldn't be a slouch, a full diagnostic check-up should reveal any problems. Believe me they are slow, just too heavy! they will happily cruise at 90 all day but it's the getting there, o to 60 in minutes not secs.

Quote :It just seems to be a bit slow on the pick up. Its got a full service histroy everythingis fine engine wise just feels as though it could do with a bit more low down grunt. I know exactly what you mean, i recently towed my 24ft caravan around the uk with mine, mine is LPG'd and to say it was flat is an understatement, :lol: i dream of a turbo and on the hills thank god for first gear and a handbrake .

Hi mate it's a normal bolt, anticlockwise to undo it. You ideally need a long reach slim 10mm combination spanner as you can see there is very little room to move. I am at this moment trying to locate a manufacturer who makes this ideal long reach spanner without much success, tried all the usual names and can't find the right one. Done mine last month and want to double check it's tight.If you are going to change it and if you havn't already bought one make sure you buy the updation steel version.. :lol:

Tiny , my advice is based on MY own findings after owning a galaxy for 4 years now and changing both front struts and many drop links cheap and original in that time. IT IS MY OPINION ONLY and if someone wishes to act upon my advice then thats upto them, without examining the vehicle yourself it will always be just that, an opinion, a suggestion of possible cause thats all it could ever be from anyone who offers advice inc you. If you feel i am offering bad advice just because you had some then that again is just your opinion and although you may not agree or don't like it doesn't mean it's wrong. I don't need to re-read my first post as i know exactly what i said. Advice and suggestions as you say should be balanced but please quote: Mine would creak stationary, moving, engine running, engine off, WTF :) my money is still on the strut bearing.....

I'm NOT saying the drop links arn't your problem and they are a peice of cake to change but having gone through 3 pairs this year alone these links tend to give you a knocking, bumping noise. I personally have never had any sort of creaking at all from these, knocking every time ! ( If you are going to change them anyway don't buy cheap ones, go to Fords or VW as mentioned and bite the bullit it's cheaper in the long run ) If you try starting your car , don't drive it just turn the wheel, if it creaks like an old spring on rubber then my money is on the bearing..

Seized bearing on the strut top mount, mine has been doing the same for over a year now, very very common due to the poor design of the top mount cups which do tend to collect all the rain water due to crappy design. You could try soaking the top mount with oil and see if that works if not replacment is the only cure i feel. You may want to leave it untill your changing the whole top mount though as it's a pig of a job.......

Can anyone tell me which parts make up the cold start circuit and give a rough idea on how it works please??

Looking for a little assistance please, can anyone post a diagram possibly from TIS of the hoses that i need to check on the intake for leaks with regards to the above fault, still cannot find anything but maybe i'm missing something, any other ideas also welcome as this is slowly driving me nuts ???

As above, time to remove your linkage, clean and regrease.... :)

And just for information should you ever need to regass your aircon system, if you don't have the mentioned roof vents then you have single aircon not dual. :angry:

Starter motor WTF , how is that possible ??????? ;)

Hi sorry for the late reply as already illustrated remove the shroud from the steering wheel including the soft leather like cover which simply clips in and you should be able to see two tabs with self tapping screws in them these are the clocks securing tabs and the only screws that hold in the clocks, they may be a bit fiddly first time round but they aren't that bad to get out also very important you must release the steering wheel adjustment first and pull the wheel all the way out and lock it in it's lowest position otherwise the clocks won't fit past the wheel. Once these screws have been removed use a flat screw driver or like me a knife and place between the top of the clocks and dash and gently lever the clocks out from the( TOP ONLY ) don't try to remove from the bottom first as they will not come out like that, once they are loose simply manoeuver between the dash and wheel note the two leads/plugs on rear are quite long although from memory i think you will have to remove before taking past wheel, am sure you will see for yourself once they are loose also they may appear to be tight in there but they will just pop out honest, done it loads of times...... :) hope this helps you out and saves you from the dreaded Frauds........ One last thing i forgot to mention was when removing the plugs on the rear of clocks you will see what looks like a hinge on the plug, as you lift the hinge the plug is forced out at the same time don't be too heavy handed..

Hi Marie if the cluster is at fault i can assure you it does not involve removing the dash or even the steering wheel as is sometimes mentioned, there are also only 2 plugs to unplug on the rear , clusters new are expensive so don't waste your money simply get a second hand one from Ebay as mentioned making sure you have the correct set ie diesel and not petrol and make sure the MPH range is the same etc. They can be removed in under 15mins honest... :) p.s before paying any money out take the clocks out and check plugs are secure on rear first

Hi the dash display on my galaxy has done this from day one almost 4 years now and the motor you describe is a pump designed to circulate cooled water around the engine to avoid hot spots ( basically to assist the cooling down of the engine ) once the engine has been switched off this will continue to pump the cooler water for quite a while and the noise has confused all of us at first, beware these have been known to fail around the 60k mark but can be repaired for around a tenner so don't go out and pay Fords a

To be honest i think the tensioner is dealer part only and i think about the