mikej

As sparky paul says tensioner or idler pulley they are a complete pain in the arse, the idler is cheaper by a long shot but it's likely to be the more expensive tensioner as this is prone to wear on the rear were the spring sits on the plastic, this causes the tensioner roller to sit at a slight angle and cause the noise. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the replys guys as said this has me really stumped but will no doubt be something stupid, luckily i have a spare very low miles engine complete with all ancills so it's not off to the dealer everytime i need to replace parts. I have tried resetting the ECU several times with no joy, even left the battery off for a week while away but still the same. The plugs were brand new NGK'S correctly gapped however the old ones also NGK'S were only 6k old, since fitting the LPG some three years ago now it's been fault free and the engine runs dare i say it perfect, i did however fit a valve lubrication kit from day one and i check weekly it's working as it should be, did think lambda but as mentioned i thought this didn't come into play untill after the auto choke( cold start) was finished?, the LPG by the way is run via it's own ECU so no alterations were made to the existing ECU parameters. The tick over on startup is approx 1200 RPM so it's coming on when warm the cars sticks solid to around 700 with no bouncing and is really smooth. This problem is only for the first 2 mins or so after that i cannot fault the engine in any way as it runs spot on. Next thing to try i think is the idle control value i think although i have to admit i am clutching at straws? :rolleyes:

Now just replaced the coil pack and the said temp sender unit, problem is still there, only from cold and only when starting up on petrol for 2 mins then car is sweet as a nut. This feels like a fuelling issue or lack of it, would i be right in assuming that if it was an injector,fuel pump, plug, lead or filter issue then this symptom would appear more so under load ? Also can anyone with the mk2 2.3 tell me what your car idles at ( RPM ) when first started from cold on auto choke as although mines working it does seem a little low. cheers mike...

Just snip the end off, refitt and keep your fingers crossed :)

Quote Does anyone know of any weak connections or fuses in main box i need to look at? The ones in the battery junc box are all fine. Also, what are all those connectors underneath the battery junc box? Should I have a rummage in there? They may look alright but are the fuseable links all tight ?

I,ve had this myself in the past on my own 2.3 but when it happened the drivers door led would flash rapidily as i turned the key, you couldn't even hear the fuel pump kicking in, nothing. Sorry i can't help you mind as it corrected it's self after a week or so, i was under the impression it was the PATS as once or twice after fiddling with the key in the ignition you could hear the fuel pump start and the car started but i must have been mistaken then? sounds like a iffy relay to me.

As above : What is the LED on the driver's door doing when you insert the key?

Check the small fuse box on the other end of the heavy cable, it's on the right hand side of engine bay next to battery and shold have a thick red wire coming from it to battery, these are very prone to meltdown due to loose connections on the fusable links inside ( like many others i had to change mine ) if this is the problem this could cause the light to stay on as it did with mine before catching fire lol it would also explain the lack of charging.. ;)

;)

I tow a 24ft van with a 2002 2.3 gal, i fitted some spring assisters and renewed the rear shocks with some gas ones from GSF approx

QUOTE Or at least I think thats what it does.... Well i couldn't have come up with that so that'll do for me ! thanks for the quick reply mike..

Can any of you experts out there tell me exactly how this valve works and what would the symptoms would be when failing or failed??? ;)

Ok people really need some help on this one now, i have replaced the injectors,leads,plugs correctly gapped,airfilter,fuel filter and filled with a full fresh tank of juice. Forget the LPG if i deselect the lpg altogether and start the car as normal on petrol not touching the accelarator at all the car will tick over fine with no issues and after about 60 secs of ticking over it will drive normal with no issues at all from the word go, if however i do the same start as normal but try to drive off straight away it drives like its on 3 cylinders bunny hopping up the road untill again approx 60 secs later then it's fine, this is happening if the car is started after about 2 hours sitting idle so i suppose when cold, cannot find any split or holed hoses etc anywhere, could it be a duff temp sensor as mentioned, if so can this be checked with a good one prior to removal ie resistance etc??? after the initial 60 secs the car drives faultless no smoke,leaks rattles so it's bloody annoying to say the least!. :lol:

I would definately question the fact they never put any oil in especially as it shows zero oil to start with. I think there should be 200ml in the system but check before taking my word for it, obviously if there is no oil in the system then you will be saying goodbye to your compressor very soon. Note when the system is vac'd out not all the oil is removed but i would have expected to see some trace on the report. :P

Quote remove the nearside indicator and you will see the filling port ????? Sorry is yours the MK1 or MK2 if it's the later galaxy then i believe its filled via the alloy aircon pipe at the front of the engine bay don't know what the score is with the MK1 . :P

They sell them in halfords also, they are crap in my opinion having tried one and at

No special tools required just a spanner or socket set 17mm i think and jack, if you can buy the Ford items it will save you doing them again in a few months. Now on my fourth pair in under 12 months the last pair being the real deal got sick of changing the cheapies Mike....

I wouldn't start ripping out the dash just yet as i experienced the same thing with my aircon, noises from the glovebox area like a hissing and i too thought the evaporator but it turned out my system wasn't working due to the compressor and once i fitted a new compressor and regassed it was fine ?? i am not saying this is the case with yours but a little more investigation may be needed .

Thanks for reply, can vagcom be used on a ford 2.3 engine then ?

I have a 2001 mk2 2.3 petrol which is serviced to the hilt and runs sweet as a nut 99% of the time, its been running on LPG now for almost 3 years without any issues at all however lately ONLY from cold its running a little rough for approx 2 mins as if the car is misfiring,running lean,or a lead is arcing or for the older ones like me it feels like when you use a manual choke only the choke isn't out enough etc, once warm all is good with no issues at all. If the car is started when warm then no problems appear or when the car switches to LPG then again all is good, its only when starting from cold say first thing in the morning. This one has me beat, i have just given it a full service with new plugs, leads, airfilter, fuel filter and i have changed the injectors with some spares and its still there, i thought it maybe the fuel pump but the car pulls like a 2.3 train when warm anyone got any ideas??????? :blink:

With ref to single or dual aircon my understanding is NO roof vents means NO dual aircon , with regards the aircon damage i have be told by several aircon people if you put too much refrigerant/oil in, it will stuff the compressor. Unfortunately i cannot be more specific just too much fluid and it will go pop, I think the correct amount for a single aircon system is 300+- 50g and the oil should be i think 200 mils but need to check, this is for a completely empty system though. As i mentioned mine didn't detect the extra fluid either just went bang, strange how it didn't go whilst at the bloody garage assuming they actually switched it on. best of luck.

Had exactly the same thing done to mine when i first got the galaxy with the exact same symptoms, they put in 1050g for a dual aircon system instead of the required 750g. When leaving i engaged the aircon and it was like driving with the handbrake on, suddenly i had a large screech, massive blast of air from under the car (pressure switch a bit late me thinks) and the stink of burning rubber and i almost went through the bloody windscreen at the same time, basically the compressor had seized and the belt was just dragging over the clutch. I emptied the remainder of the gas from the system and with the aircon off the car run ok although i did need a new Aux belt and compressor ! Go back and ask how much they put in. mike..... :ph34r:

When you turn on the ignition to start the engine what is the led doing on the door ?

Cable snapped by any chance ?

Ebay is the cheapest place, you can buy the regulator complete with motor ( easier to change the lot together in my opinion) pretty sure they are the same unit for the mk1 and mk2's . I wouldn't expect to pay any more than