mikej

This issue is very very common on the dash clocks had this some 5 years back on mine the display eventually dissapears altogether and can only be fixed by replacing clocks with a working unit. It normally starts with any rapid change in temp especially in the summer months when the inside of the car gets very hot, the display is connected via a very fine ribbon cable which is actually glued on, the contacts start coming away and cause intermittant and then total failure as the glue gives. If any of you have a warranty you may want to make a claim now lol... :rolleyes: I'm sure there are more than a few of us that have had this experience . mike..

I take it you have already checked your tyres, had this symptom twice this year on two seperate cars, galaxy & c max. Both down to cheap and no so cheap rear tyres, once changed problem gone! just a thought? :ph34r:

Spooky wife arrives home from work and tells me her ultra reliable 2001 pug hdi feels rough, never broken down, traced to duff maf by simply disconnecting it while running and car ran great so now on order. Gets in the old Gal to take dog out and my bloody managment light is on, checks code P0172 fuel trim bank 1 rich ? Anyhow This is what was stored: fuel system status,closed loop control using oxygen sensor-normal coolant temp 77 deg's c short term fuel trim bank 1 8.59% lean(-) long term fuel trim bank 1 28.9% lean(-) engine speed 867 rpm vehicle speed 0 mph Can anyone explain to me what a fuel trim is, short and long term etc. I have been told the maf can also cause this, is there anyway of checking a maf with a code reader if so what is the best way to confirm or any help at all would be good. Car is a 2001 petrol and runs ok but maybe with a slight hint of a misfire. Has anybody ever changed a maf on a petrol due to this issue ? When i disconnect the maf the car runs like a bag of nails...

Thankyou for your explanation, i now understand the reason for the optional running of the condensor something i wasn't aware of, obviously i missed the other explanations :huh: thanks again mike....

Quote: Air conditioning is more than just heating or cooling. One of the benefits of cooling the air and then heating it up again (which is what happens with the climate control), is that humidity is removed, and this prevents the windows steaming up, and helps clear them if they are steamed up! Also, not running the air con over the winter is quite a good way to encourage leaks as the lubricant included with the regrigerant doesn't get circulated! Hope that answers the question. Er Nope :huh: Big Kev yes mate i do have a econ setting, i shall try it tomorrow thanks. After replacing two compressors and the condensor i know all about the benefits of a working system but malcolm.dobell are you saying my system firstly cools and then warms up the air with an outside temp of 3 degrees ? I only want to know what is the connection between my compressor kicking in/out when my heater is working on hot, just don't understand the need for a compressor to provide warm air? Sorry to sound stupid and all that ?? :25:

if its working then dont worry about it :huh: I'm not worrying about it, just wondered why the compressor kicks in when my heater is set to hot or the highest temp, it works fine supplying the cold air as it should on those warmer days but don't really know why it would be used during the cold one's for example returning homelate one night this week outside temp is approx 3 degrees so i sets my heater to hot to warm us all up, with the window down slightly you can clearly hear the compressor engaging/disingaging etc as well as feel it in the revs. So the aircon works as it should when it's warm outside and supplies ice cold air but why would the compressor be kicking in when i am calling for warm or hot air, anyone know the answer or does anyone elses galaxy does this, is it normal etc???

Ok this may sound a bit thick but can someone explain to me why the compressor is used in providing warm air, my car is a 2001 with climate control. I thought the compressor was only associated with the cold aircon but obviously i was wrong as it kicks in and out while my heaters are providing hot air, anybody ? and keep it simple please.... :huh:

Sorry for the hijack but can anyone recommend a vagcom lead and software to suit the ford petrol engined galaxy, already have the elm setup for engine but would like the vagcom for the abs and airbag etc ? thanks mike.. 2001 mk2 2.3 petrol..........

you aint left any crap in the rear compartment have you? Lol there is a load of crap in there alright but now even my 10 stone rottie is complaining now ! it's deffo the tailgate, believe it or not everything on this Gal is working now but the bloody rattle :D

Does anyone else suffer from a tailgate rattle, mine does it continuously while on the move and sounds like it isn't shut properly and after 4 years it's about time i looked at it lol. If anyone else has had the same issue have you come across a cure or any pointers as to where to start looking ? thanks in advance mike :D

When you turn on the ignition have a look at the led on the drivers door and see what it is doing or how it is flashing and make a note of what it does when the engine starts and again when it doesn't, also can you hear the fuel pump buzzing in the rear when you turn the key, again when it starts and when it don't ?

Ebay! i had both for

Well Vagcom worked for me on my MK2 2.3 galaxy, light now off and all is well again, well for now anyway ! :lol:

Sounds very much like a seized bearing in the strut top mount to me, very common in fact mine doing it now. I hear mine more when turning the wheel to reverse slowly into a parking space or driveway etc, i am not saying it is this but sounds very much like it. When my undertray was off, my belt did slip a few times only in the wet weather and believe me you would notice, no stearing at all lol. :rolleyes:

audi volkswagen and skoda??? Do you have a ford engine fitted then or vw, if ford don't think vagcom is much use to you? you may want to look at somethink like the elm327 interface, this should do it . :(

Quote : Was planning on 200 mile round trip next weekend should I forget this until the pump is sorted. Nope! mine was dead for almost a year, ie not working at all untill i got round to fixing it, cost less than a tenner to fix ( info is on the forum ) if your willing to give it a go, why pay a main stealer? ;)

If you havn't had this yet on the galaxy then your lucky ! once you repaired pipe, as above it's under the sill trim get hold of some newspapers and put under mats and just keep replacing untill dry, it works a treat and dried mine in no time ( another tip i found on here) I think this issue may be caused by the rear pipework freezing up while the front inc pump are still ok and the pressure just blows the joint apart, but then i could just be talking through ones bottom! ;)

I'll swap you a nice new switch for your Supra, and i'll chuck in two kids for free ! ;)

Can anyone tell me if Vag Com can reset an air bag fault light on a galaxy petrol please? thanks in advance mike... :46:

Make sure your engine bay fuse box hasn't started to melt as this is a very very common ( the small one in front of the battery) open it up and check it's all good, this is what happened to mine before it all went t1ts up ! it could be nothing more than a worn belt as there is no adjustment on the 2.3 but the fuse box will also flag up your battery light, mind you so will a u/s alternator ! :(

Hi all based ont your experience can any of you recommend a decent fault code reader for the above model, don't really want top spend any more than say

Ford Super Plus Premium 10 Year protection , it's in a black container and when mixed turns pink ? Ford spec : WSS-M97B44-D For what it's worth, this is whats in mine mk2 petrol bought from the main steeler ! Looks like you should be ok with the stuff you have then!!! ^_^

Hi all yet again i have a question for those in the know, it is getting more and more difficult to get a smooth gear selection, well 2nd gear anyway but their all a bit sloppy. Does anyone have any advice on what the issue may be, if i move away slowly and shift into 2nd it's very knotchy again when changing down at slow speeds and trying for second same thing . I have a good complete spare box and was wondering if any part is prone to wear so i may be able to swap or is it just wishful thinking, anything to look out for ?????? heres hoping B) (Sorry mk2 2.3 petrol 5 speed manual)

Mirez i think you may be right, definately have a brake imbalance on front and suspect it maybe a stuck slider or caliper piston, going to local MOT place tomorrow to chuck it on the rollers to confirm. B)

Hi all just a quick on, had to slam on the brakes earlier due to some Donkey flying towards me head on in a dark country lane, anyhow the road was a little slippy with the recent snow/ice and when i applied the brakes hard the drivers wheel locked solid and skidded whilst the nearside wheel stopped as you would expect with no drama ? i had a little play on the way home testing my brakes every oppotunity i had and it is now apparent the drivers side wheel locks up every time with a vilolent pulsing felt through the pedal ( not the normal ABS feel ) the otherside is fine. I have no warning lights on dash at all, anyone any ideas, any suggestions on testing my brakes ABS? Disks and pads are recent with no issues! any suggestions anyone? B)