BrianH

Well its usually the cause for the car failing to start. Supplies power to the immobiliser (or fails to) and hence allows the car to crank but not fire. Fairly sure its at fault as when i went to start after filling up today it didn't want to start (and could hear clicking coming from the fusebox as well). Supposed to be poor solder joints that break ("go dry") over time and hence starts as an intermittent fault (i've driven 160 mile trip without any sign of problems with it, then found it decided to go on me when i went to the garage to fill up around a mile from home!), that can be quite hard to locate as you can't be sure you have actually fixed the problem just because it does start! The plus side is that its an easy/cheap fix compared to what you might be dealing with elsewhere once you know the cause/symptoms.

Ah, on LPG... I missed that bit. That explains the discrepancy - 20% loss is about right. Yeah i probabbly should have worded my post a bit more clearly!. Incidently it looks like relay 30 on mine has started to act up on mine again, not bad for a 2nd hand one to have done 60,000 miles though. Got the other one i took out in the car as a spare having soldered it after discovering what was wrong with it in the first place anyway!

Not too much of a difference really between the two it sounds like then, though the general consensus is the 2.3 is the nicer of the two to drive. Cheers

I don't know what sort of driving that is, but that doesn't sound good... Ours eats about £40 a week doing mixed driving, so that would be approx 36L... and it does 230+ miles on that. Long distance mix of motorway and a roads, and sitting in traffic (I use it for work, I work all over the place mainly in the south/southeast/east area, though occasionaly elsewhere, including London on a far too regular basis). Bear in mind this is 47l at 57.9p not 111.9p though. (47l costing £27.12) its reckoned you lost about 20% of the mpg vs the petrol figure, but since its far cheaper its still a saving. I've long been of the opinion that the 2.0 is underpowered at best (to get 70mph on the motorway in 5th I'm going at around 3200rpm on the flat on petrol or gas). As you say it is heavy anyway, I think i'd go for a 2.3 given the choice now if a good one came up.

Out of interest what sort of milage do you get out of that tankful? I get around 200 miles out of a fill on my 2.0 of around 47l which isn't as much as the other car i've got manages, but i wouldn't really expect it to be as the Galaxy is bigger and heavier.

1019857 is shown as the fan for the 2.8 rated at 350w, theres 2 of these fitted so both fans are the same if that helps you, assuming you have a/c fitted. The ones for my 2 litre has two options listed - a single for with a/c but without the aux a/c rated at 450w (1019855), or two with the aux ac at 300w (1011638) picking a 2.3 just shows one option - 2 fans at 300w (1016138) The diesel engine is shown as either a single 450w one same as the 2.0l, or a 200w 280mm one, with an additional 300w one if you had the aux a/c as well So it looks like its the correct one is only fitted to the v6 as far as i can tell. Though you'd probabbly get away with one of the 300w ones if it will fit (the 450w single ones will be bigger so wouldn't fit) Looked on ebay theres a few ones that appear available from Germany - one of the listings gives these alternate part numbers for the correct one. 09863380087M0959455J7M0959455B101985795VW15150CB98VW15150CBDon't know if thats any help to you?

I'd still be inclined to see if you can get a vcds scan on the box and engine if you have the option (the basic cable which will suit what you need isn't particually expensive, and the lite version of vcds will be adequate to do whats needed)

TBH your better with new wires anyway - do them one at a time and just make sure your matching the ends up. No radio for your trip then! Good luck!

can't help you there, theres one thing i noticed when i did a search for this though, theres mention of the light being lit rather than flashing being down to a blown fuse. I'd have another test with vcds and see if you can still communicate with the controller first, if not then do a search on here for the number you get above and look into the fuses mentioned firstly (there may be a reason its blown of course which you will need to fix, but start with the easy bits first).

Theres 5 different fans listed on here > http://eucatparts.com/?action=cat_ford_part&s_id_part=24431&s_id_model=98&s_code_image=G001578105which suggests some significent differences It looks like you have options of single and double fans, and two radiators - microcat suggests the correct one for yours is ford p/n 7258107 which it appears is unique to the 2.8. The fans i would expect may be different due to the a/c system, microcat again suggests that the 2.8 ones are different to the other versions. What are you looking to do exactly?

it depends how bad it is - any new fluid mixed with the old stuff will help to some degree if its in a poor condition, but you can't drain all of it out all at once as some remains in the touque convertor (this is the case for all auto boxes as far as i know - the converter is a large donut shape which is only open round the centre, so anything below the middle of it won't come out). Not sure on the filter though i think theres info on changing the fluid in the faq section (and the checking procedure as well).

It can be done in situ as stated above just make yourself some slack by removing the door card and allowing more of the slack to come loose. Some heatshrink is useful to make the job easier/longer lasting (just remeber to stick it over the wire before joining it!). If the boot is a mangled mess when you look into it then you can use trailer lighting wire for the thinner cables to make it a bit easier. you may be lucky and only have a few broken ones there.

if its permantely on that should be showing a different error or possibly more errors than it was before. You look to have isolated a possible fault to one sensor so it sounds like you may have to swap that one (or may be looking at something thats not the issue), However the original error doesn't point to a fault with the wheel sensor, rather the definition of it from the authors of vcds and the wording of the message says its an issue with the pump or control circuitary. http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01276 01276 - ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64): Signal Outside Specifications Possible Symptoms Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ONPossible Causes ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) Connector to Control Module faultyWiring and/or Connector(s) faultyABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) faultyBrake Electronics Control Module (J104) faultyPossible Solutions Check ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64) Connector to Control ModuleCheck Wiring and/or Connector(s)Check/Replace ABS Hydraulic Pump (V64)Check/Replace Brake Electronics Control Module (J104)You may have upset something by playing with the sensor, or just finished off one that was already dying. Or it may be coincidence. The other thing to check is the reluctor ring (toothed ring that the sensor reads - they sometimes snap so check round the whole length of it)

Alot of the 2.3 ones will be shunned to some degree to perceived fuel consumption, this may or may not matter to you, depends how much you use the car really!. The stalks in both should be identical on the same spec. The 2.0 doesn't manage too badly for what it is economy wise. And yes brittle isn't the half of it - the only one somewhat intact in mine is the drivers one.

Unless theres a good reason for having the auto box the manual would be the choice for most people. Given that your having issues with your auto box (in your other post) that probabbly tells you alot anyway!. Its rare to see many problems on here that catch people out with the 2.3 petrol, the diesel ones seem more common, but both are usually fixable. The older ones will probabbly have suffered from years of abuse though, particually the interior (speaker panels seem to be broken on alot i've seen). I'd personally in your position investigate the gearbox issue a bit more anyway, if its been getting gradually worse it could be related to the fluid rather than anything major.

Splice in New bits and solder just in case your still unsure

Its possible . Won't cost anything to check either. A scan with vcds should allow you to rule out the brake switch for sure.

The other possibilty if the gaiters look ok (don't rule out the boot one when your checking!) is a stuck switch in the door lock mechanism. You can rule the switch out by just unplugging it. Are any of your door lock barrels broken? (the global opening works off holding the key, so if its stuck it will do that!).

It may be worth scanning the gearbox using vcds, it might also be worth checking the fluid (quantity and condition) if you haven't already. The brake light switch is also known to fail in strange manners which may not cause it to stop noticibly working, but will log errors in vcds (would also cause the glow plug light to flash on the diesel versions, not sure its a visible fault on the petrol versions).

My petrol ford engined 97 2.0 is upto 190k now, so its capable of a fair thrashing over its lifespan, its also suprisingly easier to do some jobs on it than the Mondeo I've also got (the clutch being one of them). Haven't had any sensor problems with mine just a fair number of electrical issues (all the usual ones it seems). I've generally found HJ seems to slate certain vehicles with no real basis for doing so anyway and what you've mentioned doesn't seem to mention anything specific. To give you a better idea - new clutch, brake pads and discs all round, front drop links, the entire exhaust except for the manifold (it rotted away in many places and was beyond saving). Brought it with wiring issues (tailgate and drivers door mainly - windows, central locking, rear screen heater etc all randomly worked) a broken clock spring (airbag) and relay 30 issues. other than that its been routine service for the most part (it has a couple of slight issues, but nothing too major except for the master cylinder (finding the correct one at the time was a problem). Its done around 65k over that time so can't really complain!

My petrol ford engined 97 2.0 is upto 190k now, so its capable of a fair thrashing over its lifespan, its also suprisingly easier to do some jobs on it than the Mondeo I've also got (the clutch being one of them). Haven't had any sensor problems with mine just a fair number of electrical issues (all the usual ones it seems). I've generally found HJ seems to slate certain vehicles with no real basis for doing so anyway and what you've mentioned doesn't seem to mention anything specific.

Just make sure you check the type when you do (manual vs electric!)

The one on the 2.0 is same as idler pulley. I'd suspect the 2.3 is the same. Had mine fail on the trip back from last mot.

Does it still have the pulley from the original alternator or was one supplied with it?

How about the connection to the fusebox from the alternator? common failure on mk2s and I'm sure i've seen previous reports of the dash lights failing when it starts acting up.